FW
At Milano Unica, a new collaboration between Roica by Asahi Kasei and Tencel by Lenzing will debut an innovative collection of sustainable, circular-driven textiles. The partnership, known for promoting eco-friendly fibers, is set to introduce trousers and outerwear, focusing on comfort, style, and sustainability.
In cooperation with Destro Fabrics, this launch will feature no-gender trousers in three distinct textures, offering high comfort, urban style, and eco-conscious materials.
The collection integrates Roica V550 degradable stretch fiber, Tencel Lyocell, and European-grown cotton spun and woven in Cavernago, Italy. Roica V550 is a stretch fiber that decomposes at the end of its lifecycle, ensuring a sustainable product with a clear end-of-life solution.
TencelLyocell, made from certified wood sources, complements this with its biodegradable properties, adding to the circular economy approach.
Highlight fabrics in the new collection include the Bionic Broken Twill Weave, Biologic Twill LH Weave 4/2, and Biotech Piquet Weave, composed of 68 per cent cotton, 30 per cent Tencel Lyocell, and 2 per cent Roica V550. These fabrics offer the perfect blend of comfort, sustainability, and a modern aesthetic.
Destro Fabrics, known for its commitment to innovation, sustainability, and a low-carbon footprint, is furthering its mission of supporting a circular economy with this launch. Alongside Destro Fabrics, other partners will present their own sustainable collections, including Brugnoli’s Yogatime Collection and Maglificio Ripa’s ECO lingerie proposals. This launch marks the beginning of a journey to provide the next generation of consumers with eco-conscious fashion choices.
A leader in sustainable textile technology, Spinnova has teamed up with Siemens to revolutionize global fiber production while minimizing environmental impact.
Known for its innovative approach, Spinnova traditionally creates textile fibers using a mechanical method inspired by spider web weaving. The process uses raw materials such as wood, leather, textiles, and agricultural waste to produce Spinnova® fiber, which can be spun into yarn and fabrics like conventional fibers but with significantly reduced environmental effects.
Now, leveraging Siemens’ Xcelerator technologies, including digital twins and Totally Integrated Automation (TIA), Spinnova is scaling its production capabilities and improving efficiency. With advanced tools like Plant Simulation from the Tecnomatix® portfolio and Opcenter™ software, Spinnova can digitally model manufacturing processes to ensure consistent quality and seamless scalability.
The collaboration is exemplified at the Woodspin factory in Jyväskylä, Finland - a joint venture between Spinnova and Suzano, a leading pulp producer. Siemens’ digital tools and automation solutions have enhanced operational performance, transparency, and cybersecurity, enabling faster production ramp-up.
Spinnova’s circular technology sets new sustainability benchmarks for the textile industry, says Eryn Devola, Head – Sustainability, Siemens Digital Industries. Meanwhile, Tuomas Oijala, CEO, Spinnova, adds, the company’s solutions empower Siemens to scale efficiently and meet market demands.
Siemens’ partnership with Spinnova aligns with its commitment to merging advanced technology with sustainability to drive positive environmental and societal change. Siemens Digital Industries (DI) supports businesses across the manufacturing sector in achieving digital and sustainability transformations.
With its Siemens Xcelerator platform, the company simplifies and accelerates the transition to sustainable Digital Enterprises. Headquartered in Berlin and Munich, Siemens AG is a global technology leader in industry, infrastructure, mobility, and healthcare, employing approximately 312,000 people worldwide.
Meanwhile, Spinnova’s patented process produces biodegradable, recyclable fibers from wood pulp and waste materials without chemicals or waste byproducts. This innovation drastically reduces CO0 emissions and water usage, setting new standards for sustainable textile production and reinforcing Spinnova’s position as a trailblazer in environmentally conscious manufacturing.
From $35.89 billion in 2023, Bangladesh’s ready-made garment (RMG) exports increased by 7.23 per cent to $38.48 billion in 2024, as per the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB). Showing resilience, RMG sector in the country registered positive growth in the ten months of the year, as per a report by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).
The year began on a strong note, with RMG exports in January 2024 exports hitting $3.47 billion. Exports in February and March maintained steady at $3.19 billion and $3.06 billion, respectively. However, Bangladesh’s RMG exports declined by 6.62 per cent to $2.38 billion in April 2024 only to rebound by14.59 per cente to $3.5 billion in May 2024.
Following a 10.48 per cent to $2.97 billion in June 2024, Bangladesh’s RMG exports have shown consistence growth since July 2024 on onwards.
According to Faruque Hassan, Former President, BGMEA, 2024 was a challenging yet opportunistic year for the Bangladesh RMG industry as improved political stability and higher retail sales in the US and EU boosted work orders. Entrepreneurs increasingly focused on value-added products and expanded into new markets.
However, the sector needs to address the issues of corruption, customs and taxes to strengthen its position in 2025. Declining inflation and lower interest rates in key markets indicate positive growth prospects for the industry, he opines.
In 2024, there was a major shift towards activewear and non-cotton products alongwith efforts to diversify markets, notes Mohiuddin Rubel, Former Director, BGMEA. Energy crisis proved to a significant barrier to new investments, he adds.
With global economy set to recover in 2025, Bangladesh garment sector may also rebound during the year, despite ongoing challenges in the banking and financing sectors, adds Rubel.
Premium scrubwear brand Jaanuu has partnered with leading apparel distributor in the United States and Canada, S&S Activewear to expand the brand’s market presence and enhance access to its premium scrubs.
Since the last three decades, S&S activewear has been a trusted partner in decorator and promotional industries. The company operates eight distribution centers nationwide. Its extensive reach and reputation for reliability have made it a preferred distributor for top brands across North America.
Michael Alexander, CEO, Jaanuu, says, this partnership marks a pivotal step for Jaanuu’s future in the healthcare-adjacent space. It represents the beginning of a transformation as Jaanuu evolves into a leader in modern uniforms that redefine both style and functionality.”
As part of this collaboration, Jaanuu will offer a curated selection of its core bestsellers through S&S. These products feature enhanced designs focused on performance, utilizing premium materials that ensure comfort, durability, and functionality. The lineup includes women’s and men’s apparel crafted from a durable woven fabric and a unique knit material that has garnered strong loyalty among Jaanuu’s customer base.
This partnership not only highlights Jaanuu’s dedication to the health and wellness communitybut also enables the brand to diversify its customer base and explore new opportunities.
The champagne wishes and caviar dreams of the luxury market are facing a sobering reality check. A new report released this Monday by Business of Fashion and McKinsey paints a picture of an industry grappling with shifting consumer behaviors and a slowing global economy. As Rahul Malik, Chief Growth Officer at The Business of Fashion, aptly puts it, "The luxury goods market has created its own crisis, and it won’t recover until after 2027." The once-unstoppable growth engine of luxury is predicted to sputter, with a mere 1-3 per cent growth forecast between 2024 and 2027. This slowdown marks a significant departure from the heady days of double-digit growth, forcing luxury brands to re-evaluate their strategies and redefine their value proposition.
Key Change Drivers:
Several factors are contributing to this luxury shakeup:
Economic slowdown: Global economic headwinds are making even the ultra-wealthy more cautious with their spending. Rising inflation and geopolitical uncertainty are prompting a reassessment of luxury purchases.
Shifting consumer preferences: Experiences are the new luxury. Consumers are increasingly prioritizing travel, wellness, and personal growth over material possessions. This shift is reflected in the report's findings, which indicate a growing preference for high-end travel and wellness experiences over traditional luxury goods like watches and apparel. "There’s no doubt: it will take more to win shoppers’ hearts (and wallet-shares) now as they shift their gaze to high-end travel and wellness experiences instead," states the report.
Market saturation and price hikes: Over the past few years, many luxury brands aggressively increased prices and expanded production to capitalize on surging demand. This strategy, while profitable in the short term, diluted the sense of exclusivity and craftsmanship that defines luxury. The result? Even high-net-worth individuals are balking at the price tags. As the report highlights, "Now, even the industry’s highest spenders, who are expected to contribute up to 80 per cent of luxury spending, are turned off by the price hikes."
Rise of ‘Quiet Luxury’: Conspicuous consumption is out, understated elegance is in. Consumers are gravitating towards brands that emphasize quality, craftsmanship, and timeless design over flashy logos and overt branding. This trend favors smaller, boutique brands that offer a more personalized and discreet luxury experience. Ida Palombella, Global Fashion & Luxury Co-lead at Deloitte, explains this shift: "Quiet luxury is a significant part of this trend, emphasizing understated elegance, high-quality craftsmanship, and timeless design over overt branding or flashy logos. Boutique luxury houses are particularly well-positioned to embody quiet luxury.”
Data and Insights:
|
Region |
Projected Growth (2024-2027) |
|
China |
Slowing |
|
Europe |
Slowing |
|
Middle East |
Strong Growth |
|
India |
Strong Growth |
Bain & Company's November report revealed that only a third of the luxury sector experienced positive growth, highlighting the impact of shifting consumer habits and economic pressures.
The State of Fashion report indicates that luxury's highest spenders, who contribute up to 80 per cent of luxury spending, are now resisting price hikes.
Prada's recent success with Miu Miu underscores the growing appeal of smaller, more niche luxury brands. Miu Miu's revenue soared by 105 per cent in Q3 2024, contrasting sharply with the declining sales of giants like LVMH.
Case Studies:
Prada's Miu Miu: The explosive growth of Miu Miu demonstrates the potential of smaller labels within luxury conglomerates to capture the changing consumer mood. By offering a distinct aesthetic and a more accessible price point, Miu Miu has resonated with shoppers seeking individuality and value.
LVMH's diversification: While LVMH experienced an overall sales decline, its beauty and selective retailing segments performed well. This highlights the importance of diversification within the luxury sector and the growing consumer interest in experiences and personalized services.
Luxury market at crossroads
The luxury market is at a crossroads. To thrive in this new era, brands must adapt to the evolving demands of consumers. This means:
Redefining value: Luxury can no longer be solely about price and exclusivity. Brands must focus on delivering exceptional experiences, personalized services, and a strong sense of community. As Malik emphasizes, "customers will need to be 'reconvinced of luxury’s value proposition.'
Embracing innovation: Continuous innovation is crucial to justify premium pricing. This includes exploring new materials, technologies, and sustainable practices.
Cultivating authenticity: Consumers are seeking genuine connections and meaningful stories. Brands need to communicate their values and heritage in an authentic and engaging way.
The luxury market is not doomed, but it is undergoing a profound transformation. By embracing change and adapting to the new realities of the market, luxury brands can ensure their continued relevance and success in the years to come.
In the ongoing debate over international trade, tariffs are often a contentious topic. Some argue that tariffs protect domestic industries and create jobs, while others contend that they harm consumers and stifle economic growth. The reality, as is often the case, is more nuanced. To understand how tariffs can impact an industry, here is a closer look at the apparel industry as an example.
The global apparel industry
The apparel industry is a truly global one, with clothing and textiles produced and traded all over the world.
Table: Global apparel exports and imports
|
Country |
Apparel exports (2020) |
Apparel imports (2020) |
|
China |
$147.9 billion |
$18.9 billion |
|
European Union |
$115.9 billion |
$133.8 billion |
|
Bangladesh |
$31.4 billion |
$4.4 billion |
|
Vietnam |
$29.1 billion |
$15.7 billion |
|
India |
$13.2 billion |
$6.5 billion |
|
United States |
$5.8 billion |
$85.5 billion |
Source: World Trade Organization
The table clearly shows China is the world's largest exporter of apparel, while the US is the largest importer. This means that American consumers rely heavily on imported clothing. EU interestingly is in second position both as exporter and importer.
Tariffs impact on industry
Tariffs on imported apparel can have a number of effects, both positive and negative. On the positive side, in helps in protection of domestic jobs as tariffs can make imported clothing more expensive, potentially leading consumers to purchase domestically-produced clothing instead. This could help to protect jobs in the apparel industry. Domestic production too gets a boost as demand for locally-produced clothing increases, apparel manufacturers may ramp up production, potentially leading to the creation of new jobs. And by making imported clothing more expensive, tariffs could encourage consumers to reduce their reliance on imports, which could have positive effects on the trade balance.
However, on the down side, tariffs make imported clothing more expensive, which means consumers have to pay more for the same products. This can be particularly harmful to low-income households. It could also lead to retaliation from trading partners. When one country imposes tariffs on imports, other countries may retaliate with their own tariffs. This can lead to a trade war, which can harm businesses and consumers in all countries involved. And also tariffs on apparel can lead to job losses in related industries, such as retail and transportation.
Do tariffs actually help?
As the article ‘How Tariffs Can Help America’ points out, the effectiveness of tariffs depends on the specific circumstances under which they are implemented. In the case of the apparel industry, tariffs may provide some benefits in terms of protecting domestic jobs and increasing domestic production. However, these benefits are likely to be outweighed by the drawbacks, such as higher prices for consumers and the potential for retaliation from trading partners.
Therefore, tariffs are a complex policy tool with the potential for both positive and negative effects. While they may provide some benefits to specific industries, they can also harm consumers and lead to trade wars. In the case of the apparel industry, the evidence suggests that the drawbacks of tariffs are likely to outweigh the benefits.
It is important to carefully consider all of the potential impacts of tariffs before implementing them. In many cases, there may be more effective ways to support domestic industries and create jobs.
China's textile industry a behemoth that once clothed the world is facing numerous challenges. Overcapacity, falling exports, and domestic growth problems are casting a shadow over its future. The industry, covering from fiber and yarn production to garment manufacturing, is grappling with a slowdown that has repercussions not just domestically, but also for countries intertwined with China's textile trade.
Excess capacity and falling demand
Years of rapid expansion have led to a glut in production capacity across the textile value chain. This overcapacity is clashing with weakening global demand, which has gotten worse due to geopolitical tensions and economic uncertainties. The result is a drop in exports, a key pillar of China's textile industry.
Table: Exports on the decline
|
Fiber |
2023 (Jan-July) |
2024 (Jan-July) |
Change (%) |
|
Polyester |
10.5 million tons |
10.2 million tons |
-2.90% |
|
Nylon |
2.1 million tons |
2.3 million tons |
+9.5% |
|
Spandex |
0.45 million tons |
0.4 million tons |
-11.10% 1 |
|
Cotton Yarn |
2.5 million tons |
2.2 million tons |
-12.00% |
Source: China Customs
The table illustrates the declining export trend for key fibers and yarns. While nylon exports have seen a slight uptick, likely due to its use in specialized sectors like sportswear, the overall picture is one of contraction. This decline is particularly pronounced in spandex, where overcapacity has led to fierce price wars and a slump in both domestic and export markets.
Ripple effects across the globe
The impact of China's textile slowdown is being felt globally.
Bangladesh: A major garment exporter reliant on Chinese raw materials, Bangladesh is facing higher costs and supply chain disruptions. The decline in Chinese cotton yarn exports, for instance, has forced Bangladeshi manufacturers to seek alternative sources, often at higher prices. This is squeezing profit margins and threatening the competitiveness of Bangladesh's garment industry.
Vietnam: Another key player in garment manufacturing, Vietnam is also experiencing the knock-on effects of China's overcapacity. Increased competition from Chinese manufacturers seeking to offload excess inventory is putting downward pressure on prices and eroding Vietnam's export market share.
Ethiopia: As a rising star in the textile and apparel sector, Ethiopia is attracting investment from Chinese companies seeking to relocate production and capitalize on lower labor costs. While this brings job opportunities and technology transfer, it also raises concerns about potential overcapacity and environmental challenges in Ethiopia.
China's ways of facing challenges
Recognizing the urgent need for change, China is taking steps to address the imbalances in its textile industry. The government is encouraging mergers and acquisitions to reduce fragmentation and create larger, more efficient enterprises. Investments in automation and advanced manufacturing are also being promoted to enhance productivity and move up the value chain. With rising incomes and a growing middle class, China is increasingly looking inwards to drive textile demand. This involves promoting domestic brands, developing innovative products, and fostering a more sophisticated consumer market.
Sustainability and green initiatives are also in line. Environmental concerns are pushing the industry towards sustainable practices. This includes investing in cleaner production technologies, promoting the use of recycled fibers, and reducing water and energy consumption.
For example, the city of Shantou, a textile hub in Guangdong province, exemplifies China's push towards intelligent manufacturing. With a digitalization rate of 55.6 per cent in its textile and garment industry, Shantou is leveraging technologies like the Internet of Things (IoT) and enterprise resource planning to optimize production processes, reduce waste, and achieve green manufacturing. Companies like Guangdong Rongchang Textile Industry Co are using digital control systems to monitor energy consumption, improve quality control, and enhance resource efficiency.
The road ahead for China's textile industry is undoubtedly challenging. With innovations, sustainability initiatives, and adapting to changing global dynamics, China can move ahead in a more balanced and resilient way. The success of these efforts will not only determine the future of China's textile industry but also have far-reaching implications for the global textile landscape.
OEKO-TEX has announced updated testing criteria, limit values, and guidelines for its certifications, effective 1st April 2025. The revisions, based on scientific research and legal developments, aim to bolster trust and transparency across the textile and leather industries.
Key updates include the introduction of OEKO-TEX Organic Cotton certification, now part of OEKO-TEX Made in Green. Claims of ‘GMO-free’ or ‘organic’ will no longer appear under Standard 100, ensuring stricter oversight of certified organic cotton. Bisphenol A (BPA) limits under Standard 100 have been tightened from 100 mg/kg to 10 mg/kg, reflecting growing concerns over its endocrine-disrupting effects.
To align with the European Deforestation Regulation (EUDR), OEKO-TEX Leather Standard will require proof of leather origins, such as slaughterhouse delivery notes, emphasizing traceability and sustainability in leather supply chains.
The Made in Green label now accommodates Organic Cotton certification, combining robust supply chain verification with responsible production. STeP certificate holders can now participate in the ZDHC Supplier to Zero Programme, reinforcing environmental goals across textiles and leather industries.
OEKO-TEX Eco Passport will expand its scope to include commodity chemicals and biodegradability verification, encouraging safer and more sustainable chemical usage. Biodegradability certifications will become mandatory for surfactants, softeners, and complexing agents within a year.
These updates underscore OEKO-TEX's commitment to maintaining high standards while advancing environmental sustainability and consumer trust.
Bluesign, a global leader in sustainability solutions for the textile industry, has announced Everest Textile Technologies as its latest System Partner. As one of Europe’s most innovative denim laundries, Everest is renowned for its eco-friendly garment finishing expertise and advanced technologies
Everest, which collaborates with luxury brands like Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Diesel, and Acne Studios, utilizes state-of-the-art solutions such as ozone and laser treatments, jet dye machines, and proprietary environmental impact software. These innovations enable the company to achieve high-quality, eco-conscious finishes while maintaining transparency and traceability.
"This partnership with Bluesign marks a pivotal moment for Everest. By adopting bluesign Approved washes, we ensure maximum sustainability across all processes, supported by certified machinery and chemicals," said Luca Soligo, CEO of Everest Srl.
As a Bluesign System Partner, Everest will meet the highest environmental standards, aligning with global directives like the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD), Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), and Digital Product Passports (DPP).
"Everest exemplifies leadership in sustainable denim," said Bluesign CEO Daniel Rufenacht. "Their expertise aligns perfectly with our mission to promote clean and transparent manufacturing."
This collaboration reinforces Bluesign’s commitment to driving sustainability and regulatory compliance in the textile industry, paving the way for a more environmentally conscious future in denim production.
Following the footsteps of Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHIFW), British Fashion Council (BFC) is introducing mandatory sustainability criteria for brands aiming to participate in the upcoming London Fashion Week. Developed by CPHFW, these new requirements will begin this year with the BFC's Newgen program, and will be fully implemented by January 2026.
Caroline Rush, Outgoing CEO, BFC, states, the partnership between London and Copenhagen ‘builds on the Council’s existing minimum standards and reaffirms its commitment to driving positive change across the global fashion industry.’ Describing the collaboration as a significant step in making sustainability integral to the future of fashion, Rush emphasizes, the initiative aims to empower emerging designer businesses to take the lead in creating a more sustainable and responsible industry.
Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO, Copenhagen Fashion Week, highlights, the agreement not only promotes much-needed industry alignment but also underscores the significant potential of fashion weeks and councils to drive positive change. Thorsmark had previously introduced the CPHFW Sustainability Action Plan in early 2020, setting 19 minimum standards that brands must meet to be part of the Copenhagen calendar. These standards require companies to take responsibility for their environmental impact, including measuring and offsetting carbon emissions and eliminating the use of single-use plastic hangers and garment bags, among other measures.
