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By 2020, 70 per cent of the tanneries LVMH sources from will be Leather Working Group certified. The aim is to make that 100 per cent by 2025.
For the past year, Louis Vuitton has been using salpa, a type of reconstituted leather, to produce some of the models for its leather goods products, which enables it to avoid using real leather. LVMH took part in drafting the new version of the Animal Sourcing Principles in 2016. The document sets out general principles of animal well-being in supply chains and is part of a long-term commitment to improve and monitor breeding practices.
Exotic leathers, including crocodile leathers, are also the subject of particular attention. LVMH owns an exotic leather tannery and several crocodile farms. Luxury group LVMH has determined a best-practice matrix, working with recognised independent experts, which is used as a benchmark during the audits conducted at the farms.
The group uses leather offcuts to reduce waste. The group is working on eliminating chemical substances that are not compliant with the LVMH restricted substance list by specifically targeting hexavalent chromium in its leathers. LVMH has been setting an example through its dynamic growth since its creation in 1987.
ITEMA has finalized agreements to acquire 61 per cent of shares in Lamiflex, a leading supplier of technical composite products, and a minority stake in NoeCha, provider of high-tech, wide-format printing solutions.
The acquisitions are part of a wider strategy of ITEMA and its shareholders, namely the Radici family with 60 per cent shares and the Arizzi e Torri families with the remaining 40 per cent. The aim is to accelerate continued expansion and secure long-term profitability of ITEMA by diversifying into complementary, high-growth markets through stakes in innovation-driven companies which offer significant economies of scale to fuel the joint development of each other’s’ core businesses.
Headquartered in Ponte Nossa, Bergamo province, Lamiflex specializes in composites materials, such as carbon, glass and Kevlar and offers a portfolio of innovative solutions and patented new products with exceptional versatility and adaptability for industrial applications, catering to industries as wide-ranging as weaving machinery, medical and aerospace, among others.
NoeCha, is a Bergamo based quickly scaling up young company which offers high-tech printing solutions, such as the revolutionary wide-format industrial UV-LED flatbed digital press, the NoeCha ONE, for photo-realistic, high impact graphics. NoeCha ensures excellent printability on different type and size of material up to 3.2x2meters at production speeds with a native 600 dpi x 600 dpi image resolution.
These acquisitions will lead to optimizing processes and improving product performances, as well as providing advantages derived from a shorter, more sustainable supply chain, lessening the environmental impact of the joint operations, in line with the principles of a circular, greener economy.
Year 2017 has started on a positive note for Italian textile machinery manufacturers. For the first quarter, orders have increased both in Italy and abroad. Orders confirm a positive trend in major foreign markets, and a climate of trust for Italy’s textile industry.
The order index for the country’s textile machinery, from January to March, grew 24 per cent compared to the same period in 2016. The index value stood at 113.7 points. This growth came mostly from markets abroad, where the index came in at an absolute value of 124.1 points, a 26 per cent rise. In Italy, the increase compared to the period from January to March 2016 was 16 per cent, with an absolute value of 71.5 points.
The index data for the first three months of the year confirm positive signs registered by businesses in various foreign markets. The dynamic trend for Italy’s domestic market originates from a renewed climate of enhanced trust that is currently perceived in the textile sector. This has been triggered by the government’s commitment to enact a range of significant incentives for the country’s manufacturing system.
Creativity, sustainable technology, reliability and quality are the characteristics which have made Italy a global leader in the manufacturing of textile machinery.
Primo 1 D’s ultra high-frequency RFID yarn enables the embedding of RFID tags directly into garments or materials. The yarn is meant for textile manufacturers. The technology is not only intended for use in apparel and retail but is also being trialed on industrial products that do not lend themselves well to the attachment of an adhesive or hanging tag.
The e-thread is an RFID yarn for which the antenna is built into the yarn strand itself. The company uses standard RFID chips which typically measure 445 micrometers by 490 micrometers or smaller.
Since the technology was introduced, the company has further developed it to create improved impedance-matching techniques. This means that the e-thread can be read at twice the distance, from seven meters to 12 meters. It can also be shorter than its predecessor, depending on the application.
Primo 1 D is a French technology company. It has reached a throughput of five million units with the launching of its new production equipment. This is largely due to investments over the last two years in the industrial phase of ramping the manufacturing and production technology and related equipment. The RFID-enabled thread or yarn was developed as part of a European project to develop intelligence in textiles.
Remediation work of the country's garment factories is unlikely to be completed within the stipulated timeframe as 77 per cent of safety flaws in these factories have so far been fixed, says Accord. Some 1,655 factories are covered by Accord while 1,360 are behind schedule.
Rob Wayss, Executive Director and Acting Chief Safety Inspector of Accord stated there is wide consensus among signatories to the Accord brands, the global apparel companies in the retailers, global unions and its local affiliates that the work of Accord will not be completed by June 2018. The progress related to capacity of the social partners and to regulate safety in the industry will still be inadequate.
Looking beyond 2018, apparel brands and retailers and unions are discussing how to best ensure safety regulations and safety rights in RMG industry are adequately upheld developed. About 77 per cent of the initially identified fire, electrical and structural flaws, assessed by the Accord engineers, has been remediated and more than 400 factories have completed 90 per cent of their remediation work, Joris Oldenziel, head of public affairs at the Netherlands office of Accord, commented while presenting the progress paper. He further added saying that the Accord remediation fund will provide qualified suppliers with access to direct funding for 50 per cent of remaining remediation costs for covered factories with no current Accord business and this support is limited and will be implemented on a 'first come, first served' basis.
As Accord approaches its final year, a major focus will be to establish safety committee and safety training program as many as possible and effectively address safety complaints filed at factory safety committees or through its safety complaint mechanism.
Cambodia’s economic growth is forecast to continue at a healthy seven per cent for 2017-2018. Strong garment exports and from agriculture industries are at the heart of the positive outlook. Readymade garments account for about 80 per cent of the country’s total exports.
Cambodia’s exports are expected to expand 11 per cent this year, outpacing import growth at nine per cent while tourism revenues should remain strong this year and next year. The strong economic situation is due to rising number of tourist, a steady increase in foreign investment, higher consumer spending due to an increase in minimum wage for workers in the garment industry, and a decline in poverty.
But there is a need to ensure transparency and accountability, which in turn eliminates corruption in social and public affairs, and makes for continued stable economic growth. However, Cambodian exporters need to diversify from their current focus on the European Union. Brexit and the EU’s ongoing economic instability could endanger Cambodian businesses. Domestic risks stem from vulnerabilities in the financial sector, partly traceable to its rapid expansion, in particular the proliferation of microfinance institutions. There is a need to lower the cost of doing business and improve productivity growth and competitiveness.
Ethiopia is aiming to generate $30 billion from export of garment and textile by the year 2025. This is an ambitious target for a country whose shipments are only $115million now. This is the first time Ethiopia, spelled out its vision in such detail. However, it is not the first time for the government to look to the textile and clothing supply chain as one of the country’s key targets for growth.
According to Arekbe Oqubay, Special Advisor to the Prime Minister, the plan will transform Ethiopia to a compelling new sourcing hub for brands, retailers and their suppliers. Oqubay further explains by 2025 the company wishes to make Ethiopia the leading apparel and textile manufacturing hub in Africa capable of exporting up to $30 bn. It is a challenge, and they believe if Vietnam can do it, if Bangladesh can do it, Ethiopia can do it even better.
Oqubay until 2010 the prime focus was on agriculture, an even in the last 5 years it has been in transition. Also, the company is looking for manufacturing then apparel and textiles is top priority because it’s the largest employing industry, and also the international market is significant: every household requires apparel and textile products.
The target set is 300 fold rise in shipments within eight years. Back in 2015, the country’s annual export for clothing was $73.25 million. This shows what the Horn of Africa nation is up against.
"Attracting over 825 exhibitors from over 25 countries and regions, including Mainland China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Japan, Indonesia, Germany, France, Italy, Israel and Columbia, SIUF, held from April 19 to 21, 2017, garnered tremendous response. Spread across 73,000 sq. m. in six halls, the show presented global brands, suppliers, manufacturers in the intimate apparel industry, hosting around 130,000 visitors. As per the organizers, the show garnered in a total turnover of 5.3 billion Yuan, growing at 12.8 per cent, compared to last year."
Attracting over 825 exhibitors from over 25 countries and regions, including Mainland China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Japan, Indonesia, Germany, France, Italy, Israel and Columbia, SIUF, held from April 19 to 21, 2017, garnered tremendous response. Spread across 73,000 sq. m. in six halls, the show presented global brands, suppliers, manufacturers in the intimate apparel industry, hosting around 130,000 visitors. As per the organizers, the show garnered in a total turnover of 5.3 billion Yuan, growing at 12.8 per cent, compared to last year.
The vibrant cultural program encompassing fashion shows, design contests, awards, trends forum and super model contests, showcased the best of China's lingerie and apparel trends. A wide range of fashion shows by Embry Form, Invista, Rui Fashion, Oleno, Muse’s Allure, ‘JiXiangZhai’ were orgained. The highlight was the ‘SIUF 2017 Super Model Talent Competition’ which saw 36 super models from all over the world. The jury included show directors of Victoria’s Secret Fashion Shows, Hamish Hamilton (2003-2015) and Rene Celestine (2016), Chinese singer, Weiwei Tan, Jos Berry, Founder of Concepts Paris, Francesca Spinetta, CEO of Intima Group and Jason Paul McCarthy, Director of AAS at Parson School of Design.
Trendsetting discussion on topics encompassing material to distribution around underwear industry took place with at the ‘China international underwear summit’. In depth analysis on topics like ‘new materials, technology and new trends’, ‘transformation innovation connection’ and ‘how e-commerce can help your business grow’ were discussed to support all industry players in growing business and exploring new market.
The organisers
“It was wonderful to celebrate this milestone of 12 years of SIUF. When we look back on the market changes over the past decade we are encouraged about the challenges ahead for the next decade with value, technology and sustainability at the forefront. We will carry on with our expertise in the intimate apparel industry to build bridges across the whole supply chain,” said Fengwei Zhang, CEO, Shenzhen Shengshi Jiuzhou Exhibition, Founder of SIUF. SIUF 2017 was supported by Shenzhen Underwear Association (SUA), Guangdong Province Textile Association, China Knitting Industrial Association, Xinyi Foundation, Taiwan Textile Federation, HKIAIA as well as Gesamtmasche.
The joint trade fair SIUF, also known as ‘China (Shenzhen) International Brand Underwear Fair & Shenzhen International Underwear OEM / Materials and Fabrics Fair’, has been the most influential fairs in Asia. SIUF 2018 will be held from April 19 to 21 at Shenzhen Convention and Exhibition Center.
International Knit Fair (IKF) will be held in Tirupur, May 10 to 12, 2017. This is a knitwear trade fair showcasing the spring/summer 2018 clothing line, IKF will showcase end-to-end products pertaining to the knitwear segment. The fair will present the capabilities of knitwear makers from India.
Participants will display their collections including pullovers, cardigans, dresses, skirts, hooded T-shirts, shorts, pajamas, ensembles, blouses, golfing polo shirts, inner wear, boxers, shorts, night wear and leggings apart from an extensive collection of cotton blended garments for men, women, children and babies.
The share of Tirupur knitwear exports in India’s total garment exports is 20 per cent. More than 80 per cent of the industries in this sector are medium and small scale. Exporters want a one-time long term initiative to be undertaken to uplift the skill proficiency of existing laborers in order to increase productivity at par with competing countries and at the same time reduce waste.
Exporters also feel this is the right time for the knitwear sector to capture the market that’s leaving China, due to an increase in cost of manufacturing. If the opportunity is missed, the market would be captured by competing countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam, Indonesia and Cambodia.
The Global Fashion Agenda, in collaboration with The Boston Consulting Group, published a ground-breaking in-depth assessment of the fashion industry's environmental and social performance the first edition of the Pulse of the fashion industry report. The findings will be presented at this year's Copenhagen Fashion Summit (CFS), to take place on May 11, at the Copenhagen concert hall.
In the past decade, the global fashion industry has been an engine for global development and made progress on sustainability. Awareness is growing and individually, companies are optimizing business practices to limit their negative impact. But with current trajectories of production and consumption, pressures on natural resources and social conditions will intensify by 2030 to the point of threatening industry growth itself.
The Global Fashion Agenda has made an in-depth assessment of the industries environmental and social performance it offers the first comprehensive common fact base on the health of the industry with a "Pulse Score" by type of company, size, region and stage in the value chain.
Improving its environmental and social performance would not just advance the industry's commercial prospects, it would also add as much as €160 billion by 2030 in annual value to the world economy. To point the way toward a better fashion industry, the Pulse of the fashion industry report lays out the "Landscape for Change." Yet it also shows that even if most of the industry implemented today's best practices individually, it would not be enough to capture this value and close the gap.
The industry can move beyond fragmented individual actions with incremental results. Through collective efforts the industry can unite around an agenda for change, drive the needed systemic change and work jointly on disruptive innovation.
The fashion industry has a clear opportunity to act differently, pursuing profit and growth while also creating new value for society and therefore for the world economy. It comes with an urgent need to place environmental, social and ethical improvements on management's agenda.
