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This year, Milan’s menswear season kicked off with an innovative showcase by Federico Cina at the Fondazione Sozzani, located in the northern part of the Italian fashion capital.
Set on a brisk yet sunny winter afternoon, the event felt more like a Marina Abramović art installation than a traditional runway show. Crafted from dense, industrial-inspired wools, Cina’s collection was showcased with an authoritative and artistic flair.
Models portrayed characters performing daily rituals inside plywood boxes or on small stages, imbuing the garments with a sense of refined elegance. One standout moment featured a rocker-like figure in a perfectly tailored midnight blue blazer and peacoat, encircled by eight microphones, occasionally stepping forward to utter a solemn word.
Elsewhere, a young man in a white denim jumpsuit peeled white-painted oranges in a quiet corner, while a poised woman in a backless plissé handkerchief dress marched around an office chair, trapped yet determined, reminiscent of Orson Welles’ The Trial.
Cina named the collection ‘Assunta and Giacomo’ in honor of his grandparents, who passed away last year. The presentation was a testament to the Bologna-born designers’ talent and a fitting introduction to Fondazione Sozzani, a cultural hub founded by Carla Sozannai and currently led by Sara Maino, a well-known figure in Europe’s fashion industry.
Attracting scores of young designers, the event underscored Milan’s transformation from its post-war industrial roots to a modern epicenter of design innovation.
Besides expanding its domestic market to $1.8 trillion, India aims to achieve $600 billion in textile exports by 2047, says Rakesh Mehra, Chairman, Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI, In April-December FY25, India’s textile exports totaled $26.6 billion.
However, the country heavily relies on imported textile machinery, including auto-corners, winders, and fancy doublers for spinning and knitting garment fabrics. To reduce this dependence on imports, the industry proposes a scheme to foster local machinery manufacturing. According to this scheme, the government will provide a 7 per cent subsidy to support manufacturers in stabilizing operations for at least 10 years, avers Mehra.
India mainly imports specialized equipment such as spun lace, spun bond, mask-making machines, technical textile equipment, synthetic dyeing machines, and multi-axial looms. These imports underscore the need for a robust domestic manufacturing framework.
To meet this demand, the Ministry of Textiles plans to increase its budget allocation for the sector to 15 per cent to approximately Rs 5,080 crore in FY26, from Rs 4,417.03 crore in FY25. Allocation for the Production-Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme, specifically for technical textiles and man-made fiber (MMF) apparel and products, is anticipated to rise from Rs 45 crore to Rs 60 crore in FY26.
Approved in 2021 with an outlay of Rs 10,683 crore over five years, the PLI scheme was designed to boost the production of MMF apparel, MMF fabrics, and technical textile products. This initiative aims to help India’s textile industry achieve greater scale, competitiveness, and global reach.
The budget will presented by Finance Minister Nirmala Sitharaman on February 1, 2025. Through this budget, the Indian government seeks to transform the textile industry into a global leader by supporting local manufacturing and incentivizing innovation.
Driven by the e-commerce and specialty segments, India’s apparel retail market is projected to grow by 15 per cent CAGR until FY30.
In FY25, apparel sales from India’s e-commerce segment are projected to increase by 17 per cent Y-o-Y, as per a report by India Ratings and Research (Ind-Ra). Meanwhile, brick-and-mortar (B&M) sales are projected to increase by 7 per cent Y-o-Y in FY25 while growing at 9 per cent CAGR till FY30. This growth will be supported by the enduring appeal of in-person shopping experiences.
Fast fashion, lux ury, ethnic wear, and value-focused segments in Tier-II and smaller cities will outperform the broader apparel market during this period, as per the Ind-Ra report. Fast fashion segment will gain momentum due to social media influence and Gen Z preferences, with major retailers doubling store counts by FY25. Ethnic and value segments are also set to expand as customers shift to organized retail.
Further, Ind-Ra forecasts, revenue growth in the sector will improve from 8.5 per cent in FY25 to 10.5 per cent in FY26. In H1FY25, revenue growth had slowed to 7 per cent Y-o-Y due to subdued consumer demand and lower same-store sales growth (SSSG). However, it is expected to rebound in H2FY25, supported by favorable monsoons, an increase in wedding events, and improving consumer financial health.
Retailers are expected to maintain steady profitability through cost optimization measures, keeping EBITDA margins at 16.5 per cent in FY25 and improving by 30 basis points (bp) Y-o-Y in FY26. Advertising spending is predicted to remain stable at 2.5 per cent-3 per cent of revenue. Number of inventory days are likely to decline slightly in FY25 but remain elevated due to controlled expansion and focus on shorter-cycle fast fashion.
Store expansion is anticipated to grow at 9 per cent Y-o-Y in FY25 and 11 per cent Y-o-Y in FY26, driven by fast fashion and ethnic-focused formats. Retailers are also adopting franchise models and targeting under-penetrated markets to optimize costs. Controlled capex and steady profitability are expected to sustain the capital structure and credit metrics, with improvements projected in FY26.
From $1.08 billion during April-November 2024, India’s clothing imports are estimated to rise to $1.58 billion by FY2024-end.
Prabhu Dhamodharan, Convenor, Indian Texpreneurs Federation (ITF), informs, India mostly imported cotton clothing ($513 million) and synthetic fiber clothing ($375 million) during the April-November 2024 period. Additionally, it also imported knitted clothing worth $420 million, while woven clothing imports amounted to $529 million. The majority of this clothing was sourced countries like China, Vietnam, Bangladesh, and Sri Lanka, he adds.
To reduce dependence on imports and address challenges related to pricing, quality, design and product variety, textile clusters in India need to collaborate with retailers, emphasises Damodharan. They need to improve their engagement with retailers for more effective alignment of their production with market demands, he adds.
Retail brands also need to boost collaboration with local producers in order to make their supply chains more resilient, notes Damodharan. This would help boost domestic manufacturing capabilities, he adds. Further, Dhamodharan urges domestic retailers to prioritize sourcing from within the country rather than relying on imported goods.
The International Cotton Advisory Committee’s (ICAC) drive to promote instrument-based cotton testing is gaining momentum as 2025 begins. The Committee for Commercial Standardization of Instrument Testing of Cotton (CSITC) reported a milestone achievement during its fourth and final 2024 Round Trials, with 72 facilities submitting a record-breaking 173 instruments for evaluation. This marks the highest participation in CSITC’s 19-year history.
The trials, which aim to enhance global cotton testing standards, recorded a median Overall Evaluation Result (OER) of 0.36 consistent with the stable range of 0.30 to 0.40 observed since 2017. Participating facilities received detailed diagnostic reports instead of pass/fail results, enabling targeted improvements in their testing processes.
To sustain its progress, CSITC has implemented several initiatives, including introducing a new logo, establishing an executive committee for dynamic decision-making, and updating member roles. Efforts to increase outreach to manufacturers, spinning mills, and new members from nations like Brazil, India, Pakistan, and Turkiye have also been intensified. These steps ensure continued advancement in cotton testing precision globally.
Authentic Brands Group has partnered with Sports Casuals International (SCI) to introduce a Reebok-branded performance golf apparel line for men and women. The collaboration will involve design, manufacture, and distribution of the collection by SCI, while Reebok Design Group (RDG) will handle the development of golf footwear. This move aims to establish Reebok as a key player in the evolving golf market.
Combining performance-driven technologies with modern aesthetics, the collection will offer comfort, functionality, and versatility both on and off the course. It will be available through department stores, specialty retailers, and online platforms.
Steve Robaire, EVP, Reebok, says, the introduction of this collection marks a significant milestone for Reebok as it re-enters the performance golf space, says Steve Robaire, EVP, Reebok.
Golf is transforming culturally, and Reebok is ready to lead with accessible, stylish, and high-performing products, adds Todd Krinksky, CEO, Reebok
The launch follows Reebok’s partnership with pro golfer Bryson DeChambeau and his LIV Golf team, Crushers GC.
After nearly 18 months, LVMH has regained its position as Europe’s largest publicly traded company, surpassing Danish pharmaceutical giant Novo Nordisk A/S.
LVMH’s share price, which had declined by 0.8 per cent has rebounded alongside the luxury sector. Despite a challenging 2024, marked by a 13 per cent slump due to reduced spending in China, investor confidence has grown. Earnings updates from industry peers Richemont SA and Brunello Cucinelli SpA have further fueled optimism.
Since mid-November, a Goldman Sachs index tracking the luxury sector has risen over 20 per cent, boosted by China’s stimulus efforts and expectations for economic recovery. US demand may also grow under a more business-friendly administration.
The market now turns its attention to the upcoming earnings season, with particular focus on LVMH’s full-year results, set for release on January 28. Analysts will be watching for insights into demand across key regions and the impact of China’s economic measures.
A few Washington lawmakers are advocating for the passing of the House Bill 1107 for increased transparency in the fashion industry’s environmental and labor practices.
Introduced by Rep. Sharlett Mena (D-Tacoma) at the start of the 2025 legislative session, the bill targets fashion companies with gross income exceeding $100 million, requiring them to disclose their impact on the environment and labor standards.
The bill responds to growing concerns over fast fashion's environmental toll, including excessive waste, pollution, and resource consumption. For instance, producing a single pair of jeans requires up to 10,000 liters of water, equivalent to 10 years of drinking water for one person, according to the United Nations.
Past iterations of the bill failed to advance in 2022, 2023, and 2024. However, this year’s version includes updated requirements for fashion manufacturers to report on chemicals in clothing, environmental marketing claims, disposal practices for unsold items, and pollution-reduction initiatives. The reports would help Washington’s Department of Ecology develop policies to minimize the industry’s environmental impact.
Companies that fail to comply could face penalties, with funds directed to underserved communities impacted by environmental harm.
Supporters, like Kathryn Horvath, WashPIRG argue the bill provides much-needed transparency, enabling the state to mitigate waste and pollution. They note that many large companies, such as Nike, already produce similar reports.
However, critics raise concerns about the bill’s feasibility. The Washington Retail Association warns it could lead to higher costs for consumers and fewer clothing options in the state. The Department of Ecology, which remains neutral, has expressed reservations about its ability to oversee global supply chains and suggested involving other state agencies.
As Washington’s 105-day legislative session unfolds, lawmakers will determine whether the state is ready to lead the charge on fashion industry accountability or if this proposal will remain on the shelf.
An operator of PET plastic and polyester fiber recycling technology, Loop Industries has ended its joint venture with South Korean company Geo Centric (SKGC). Established in early 2023, the partnership aimed to build and operate an Infinite Loop manufacturing facility in Ulsan, South Korea.
The decision to terminate the agreement aligns with Loop’s strategy to focus on deploying capital in low-cost regions and prioritizing a licensing and engineering services model in higher-cost countries. A regulatory filing also cited strategic restructuring and reorientation within the SK Group as factors in the decision.
As part of this reorganization, Jonghyuk Lee, SKGC stepped down from his position as the Board Member with Loop on January 13, 2025. Despite the termination, SKGC plans to maintain its financial investment in Loop.
While the dissolution of the South Korean agreement poses a challenge for Loop, the company is advancing its plans for a facility in India. Following a land study, Gujarat was identified as the optimal location for the project. In partnership with local firm Ester, Loop is conducting due diligence on land acquisition and has engaged third-party contractors to manage construction and accounting.
The Indian facility is expected to be launched in Q2, FY25 with construction set to be completed by late 2026. Commercial operations are projected to begin in 2027.
The Indian facility will cater to the growing demand from circular fashion brands for textile-to-textile (T2T) polyester. By utilizing waste polyester feedstocks from India, the facility will produce polyester resin made entirely from textile waste, supporting sustainable practices in the fashion industry.
World’s largest spandex manufacturer by market share, known for its Creora and regen brands, Hyosung will showcase customized solutions for the denim industry at Kingpins New York. The event will be held at Basketball City from January 22–23. 2025.
The company will present its new denim innovations including an expanded regen BIO range featuring regen BIO+ and regen BIO Max, both containing higher amounts of renewable content.
It will also showcase the RCS-certified 100 per cent recycled regen, made from industrial waste, along with Creora 3D Max. This product provides excellent stretch and recovery with minimal spandex content, making garments easier to recycle. Additionally, Hyosung will unveil Creora Slip Free, which enhances seam slippage resistance.
Simon Hong, Global Marketing Director, Hyosung opines, it is important to provide tailored solutions to meet brands’ unique needs as they diverse approaches to sustainability, using recycled and bio-based materials or focusing on recyclable product.
Hyosung continues to support the Kingpins Future Fits Forum and will host a seminar on denim fashion trends during the forum. The company will exhibit in Stand 10 in the green area in the exhibition.
