FW
Ekoten Textile, Europe’s premier knitting manufacturer and Turkey's top circular knit exporter, has expanded its production capabilities by integrating Karl Mayer technology. The Izmir-based industry leader, known for its daily output of 40 tonnes of premium fabrics, is entering the warp knitting sector with cutting-edge tricot machines.
The newly established warp knitting division began production in January 2025 at a state-of-the-art 10,000 square meters facility. This move aligns with Ekoten’s commitment to innovation and meeting the growing demand for advanced textiles, particularly in the activewear market, which now constitutes 70 per cent of its sales.
Renowned for supplying high-end brands like Decathlon, Lululemon, and Hugo Boss, Ekoten aims to provide comprehensive solutions, offering both circular and warp-knitted fabrics. With the addition of Karl Mayer’s HKS machines, the company is well-positioned to cater to the increasing demand for functional and technical textiles.
Ekoten’s R&D efforts are equally impressive, creating around 300 new fabric designs monthly. “While circular knitting has been our strength, warp knitting opens exciting opportunities for us,” said Bilge Cinar, development executive at Ekoten.
To ensure seamless integration, Ekoten’s team underwent extensive training at Karl Mayer facilities in Turkey and Germany. The partnership also benefits from Karl Mayer’s global infrastructure, including local support and expert guidance.
Ekoten’s warp-knitted fabrics will debut at Premiere Vision Paris in September 2025, with additional showcases in Munich and Portland. The company plans to scale its warp knitting operations, aiming to replicate its market leadership in circular knitting.
The Joint Apparel Association Forum (JAAF) has reiterated the need for targeted policy initiatives to help Sri Lanka capitalize on opportunities created by the geopolitical shifts in global apparel trade.
Emphasizing the stagnant growth of apparel export earnings over the past decade, JAAF highlighted the need for more strategic planning to enhance the country's competitiveness in the global market.
Yohan Lawerence, Secretary, JAAF, points out, Sri Lanka’s outdated policies have hindered its ability to capture and maintain valuable market shares amidst changing trade dynamics. The association is currently lobbying with the American Apparel and Footwear to secure Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) for Sri Lanka’s apparel products in the US.
The association aims to initially source raw materials and identify products meeting the criteria, informs Lawrence. He emphasized on the need to evaluate the markets and identify countries that require FTAs.
From January - November 2024, Sri Lanka’s apparel exports grew by 5.27 per cent Y-o-Yto $4.3 billion, compared to the same period in 2023. The country’s exports to the United States and the UK grew 6.25 per cent Y-o-Y and 9.37 per cent Y-o-Y respectively. Meanwhile, exports to the EU saw a slight increase of 0.04 per cent Y-o-Y while shipments to other markets also grew by 9.43 per cent Y-o-Y.
Driven by denim mills’ and manufacturers’ efforts to embrace regenerative agriculture, the global denim industry is making a significant shift toward regenerative cotton.
This transition is being accelerated by initiatives aimed at educating farmers, providing funding, and sourcing locally grown, traceable regenerative cotton. These efforts aim to create a more sustainable and resilient denim production process by focusing on soil health, carbon sequestration, and water conservation.
Some of the key mills leading this change include the Brazil-based Vicunha which has incorporated regenerative cotton into its product range through its Regen by Vicunha initiative. The mill has partnered with Scheffer, a leader in regenerative cotton production, and aims to produce 2 million meters of regenerative denim by 2025.
Similarly Pakistan-based Artistic Milliners is expanding its regenerative cotton program from 92 farmers in 2023 to 600 in 2024. The program focuses on regenerating ecosystems in Rahim Yar Khan, a region affected by chemical-based farming practices. The mill plans to increase its use of regenerative cotton from less than 2 per cent to 5 per cent over the next few years, with an emphasis on soil health, carbon emissions reduction, and biodiversity.
Pakistan-based Soorty launched the Soorty Regenagri Initiative in 2023, targeting 5,000 acre in South Punjab. The initiative focuses on sustainable practices like reducing chemical use, promoting biodiversity, and increasing female farmer participation. The brand’s regenerative cotton usage increased significantly in 2024, and it plans to continue expanding based on customer demand.
The global demand for regenerative cotton is growing despite the challenges faced by regenerative agriculture related to supply chain consistency, lead times, and cost. The denim industry’s shift towards regenerative cotton represents a growing commitment to sustainability, with mills and brands scaling up production and working together to promote long-term ecological restoration.
Globe Textiles (India) registered a 102.20 per cent Y-o-Y rise in its net profit to Rs 380.76 lakh during Q2, FY25 ended in September 2024 as compared to Rs 188.31 lakh in Q2, FY24 ended September 2023. The company’s revenue also increased by 35.12 per cent to Rs 15,019.77 lakh, during the quarter from Rs 11,115.74 lakh in the corresponding quarter of FY24.
A key factor behind the company’s growth was its recent acquisition of a 70 per cent stake in Globe Denwash, a leader in sustainable denim washing and finishing techniques. The acquisition significantly strengthened Globe Textiles’ position in international markets, especially in the UK, US, and Europe, where sustainability is a key focus.
Since its establishment in 1995, Globe Textiles (India) has become a leader in sourcing, manufacturing, and trading a wide range of textile and apparel products. The company excels at integrating every stage of production, from fiber to fashion.
Globe Textiles’ operational expertise stems from leveraging skilled personnel and quality resources to deliver innovative, customized products and services. Its diverse product portfolio includes man-made and natural fiber yarns, fabrics, accessories, home textiles, furnishings, and ready-made garments.
Driven by a commitment to quality, sustainability, and customer satisfaction, Globe Textiles continues to expand its presence in both domestic and international markets. This focus not only enhances its global competitiveness but also reinforces its reputation as a reliable and forward-thinking partner in the textile and apparel industry.
This year, Welspun is exhibiting its products in three booths at Heimtextil. Having revamped its booth design completely, Heimtextil is showcasing national brands including Disney, Charisma and Kate Shand in its main booth in Hall 12.0.
In its private-label offerings, Welspun highlights Grand Hotel, a brand expanding into the luxury home sector, and First Apartment, which targets first-time homeowners of all ages. Additionally, the company is also promoting its Recology range, which emphasizes sustainability and eco-friendly themes.
Welspun is also showcasing a range of beach products that highlight its advanced flatbed printing capabilities. The company has unveiled a proprietary AI tool called the Consumer Sentiment Analysis Dashboard to analyzes consumer sentiment across e-commerce platforms to help businesses identify opportunities and address gaps in the customer experience.
A second booth in Hall 12.0 features an innovative new concept called The White Space Lab by Welspun, while the booth in Hall 5.1 is dedicated to area rugs, carpet tiles, wall-to-wall flooring, and click-n-lock laminate flooring.
Welspun’s booths in Hall 12.0 are located at C21 and C28, and its Hall 5.1 booth is at B79.
A global leader in textile machinery, the Italy-based Savio Macchine Tessili SpA, which has been collaborating with the Recycling Atelier Augsburg since September 2024 to enhance since September 2024, plans to complete the process chain for mechanical textile recycling by focusing on winding and quality control of yarns.
A specialist in yarn finishing machinery, Savio Macchine Tessili has over 110 years of experience. The company manufactures products like advanced winding, twisting, air-jet spinning, shrinking, and bulking machines, manufactured across plants in Italy and Asia. Through this partnership, Savio provides cutting-edge solutions, including the Proxima Smartconer® winder, a crucial component for the yarn winding process.
The Recycling Atelier Augsburg is a collaborative network of twelve industrial companies that collectively cover the entire mechanical textile recycling process chain. Savio contributes to the initiative not only by supplying advanced machinery but also by offering invaluable expertise in yarn winding, a critical step in ensuring yarn quality.
Emphasising on the importance of Savio’s role in the collaboration, Dr-Ing. Georg Stegschuster, Head, Recycling Atelier, says, the company’s winding machines deliver high productivity, low energy consumption, superior yarn quality, automation, and data connectivity. These features perfectly align with the needs of the Recycling Atelier. The initiative’s direct knowledge sharing with the manufacturer also enhances its applied research.
Mauro Moro, CEO, Savio Macchine Tessili, avers, the company’s partnership with the Recycling Atelier Augsburg is a significant step forward in advancing research on winding technology and yarn quality control within the framework of textile recycling.
This partnership between Savio Macchine Tessili and the Recycling Atelier Augsburg highlights their shared commitment to sustainable innovation in the textile industry. Together, they aim to set new standards for efficiency, quality, and sustainability in mechanical textile recycling.
The European jeanswear market is a fiercely competitive space, with numerous established manufacturers, brands and emerging contenders vying for the top spot. 2024 has seen some interesting shifts in market share, driven by evolving consumer preferences, sustainability concerns, and innovative marketing strategies.
Top players
While precise figures are still being compiled, preliminary data suggests the following brands are leading the pack in terms of market share in 2024.
Table: Top brands and their growth
|
Brand |
Estimated market share (%) |
Estimated revenue (€ bn) |
Retail presence (approx. points of sale) |
|
Levi's |
22% |
€4.50 |
5,000+ |
|
Diesel |
15% |
€3.10 |
3,000+ |
|
H&M |
10% |
€2.10 |
4,000+ |
|
Zara |
8% |
€1.70 |
2,500+ |
|
G-Star RAW |
7% |
€1.40 |
1,500+ |
|
Pepe Jeans |
6% |
€1.20 |
1,000+ |
|
Lee |
5% |
€1.00 |
800+ |
|
Wrangler |
4% |
€0.80 |
600+ |
|
Other brands |
23% |
€4.70 |
Source: Euromonitor International, Statista, Company Annual Reports
What makes these brands leaders?
There are several reasons for the sustained success of these jeanswear giants.
Brand heritage and legacy: Levi's, Diesel, Lee, and Wrangler boast of a rich histories and strong brand identities that resonate with consumers seeking authenticity and timeless style.
Product innovation: These brands consistently invest in research and development, introducing new fits, washes, and fabric technologies to cater to evolving consumer demands.
Sustainability initiatives: With growing consumer awareness of environmental and social issues, leading brands have implemented sustainable practices throughout their supply chains, from sourcing raw materials to reducing water and energy consumption.
Marketing and distribution: Effective marketing campaigns, celebrity endorsements, and strategic collaborations have helped these brands maintain high visibility and reach a wider audience.
Omnichannel presence: A strong online presence coupled with a network of physical stores allows these brands to offer a seamless shopping experience across multiple channels.
Growth over the years
Most leading jeanswear brands have shown steady growth over the years, albeit with some fluctuations depending on economic conditions and fashion trends.
Levi's: Despite facing challenges in the early 2000s, Levi's has experienced a resurgence in recent years, driven by its focus on sustainability, product innovation, and collaborations with influential designers and celebrities. This is reflected in their steady revenue growth and expansion of their retail footprint across Europe.
Diesel: Known for its rebellious spirit and bold designs, Diesel has maintained a strong presence in the premium denim segment, consistently pushing boundaries and captivating a younger audience. Their focus on flagship stores and a strong online presence has contributed to their consistent growth.
H&M and Zara: These fast-fashion giants have captured a significant market share by offering trendy and affordable jeanswear, catering to a broad consumer base. Their extensive store network across Europe, and aggressive online marketing strategies have given a push to their rapid expansion.
Each brand has carved out its niche by focusing on specific differentiators and unique selling propositions. Levi's iconic 501s, commitment to sustainability for example, water In 2025, the jeanswear market is expected to remain competitive, with several trends shaping its future. Sustainability will continue to be major focus for brands with consumers increasingly demanding sustainable and ethically produced jeanswear. Brands will leverage technology to offer personalized experiences and customized products. Online channels and digital marketing will continue to play a crucial role in reaching and engaging consumers. Comfort and performance will be priority for brands as jeanswear will incorporate innovative fabrics and technologies to enhance these qualities.
The global fashion industry is recalibrating its compass, recognizing the vibrant and diverse opportunities across Asia beyond China. While China remains a significant player, brands are increasingly being attracted by the unique potential of other Asian suppliers. With rising incomes, digital adoption, and distinct cultural influences in countries like India, Indonesia, South Korea, Hong Kong, and Thailand are emerging as crucial growth engines for the industry. This shift is evident in the strategic initiatives and impressive growth figures reported by leading fashion brands.
India, a market of a billion aspirations
India's apparel market is expected to reach $118 billion by 2028, with a young demography and increasing disposable incomes. No wonder brands like Zara, H&M, Uniqlo, and luxury giants like Gucci and Louis Vuitton are expanding their footprint.
And to spread their footprint, these brands are adopting various strategies like localized collections. Brands are embracing Indian craftsmanship and design elements to resonate with local preferences. They are also looking at seamless integration of online and offline channels as it is crucial to cater to India's diverse consumer base. And ethical sourcing and production are gaining traction among environmentally conscious consumers.
Table: India brand sales and market share
|
Brand |
Share of sales from India |
Growth in India (YoY) |
|
Zara |
8% |
15% |
|
H&M |
5% |
12% |
|
Uniqlo |
3% |
20% |
Indonesia, the digital fashion frontier
Indonesia's fashion scene is characterized by a thriving e-commerce market, with local players like Zalora and Berrybenka leading the way. International brands like ASOS and Shein are also making inroads, adapting to the digital-first landscape. And to succeed brands have adopted mobile-first approach. They are prioritizing mobile optimization and engaging content to capture the attention of young, digitally savvy consumers. Moreover, collaborations with local influencers are key to building brand awareness and driving engagement.
Table: Indonesia brand sales and market share
|
Brand |
Share of sales from Indonesia |
Growth in Indonesia (YoY) |
|
Zalora |
60% |
25% |
|
Shein |
10% |
30% |
South Korea, the style icon
South Korea's fashion influence extends far beyond its borders, shaping trends in streetwear, K-pop fashion, and beauty across the globe. Luxury brands are vying for a share of the affluent South Korean market, while local brands like Gentle Monster and Stylenanda are gaining global recognition.
Experiential retail is a priority for success in this market. Flagship stores are designed as immersive brand experiences, showcasing cutting-edge design and engaging consumers. Moreover, celebrity collaborations is also crucial. Partnering with K-pop stars and designers amplifies brand visibility and taps into the ‘Korean Wave’
Table: South Korea brand sales and market share
|
Brand |
Share of sales from South Korea |
Growth in South Korea (YoY) |
|
Gucci |
12% |
10% |
|
Louis Vuitton |
10% |
8% |
Hong Kong, the luxury hub
Hong Kong serves as a crucial gateway to the Chinese market and a major shopping destination for affluent tourists. Luxury brands maintain a strong presence, with flagship stores and exclusive events catering to high-net-worth individuals.
Brands are focusing on personalized services and exclusive experiences to cultivate customer loyalty. Also on their agenda is providing seamless shopping experiences across online and offline channels to cater to the digitally savvy consumer.
Table: Hong Kong brand sales and market share
|
Brand |
Share of sales from Hong Kong |
Growth in Hong Kong (YoY) |
|
Chanel |
15% |
7% |
|
Hermès |
12% |
5% |
Thailand, the rising tourist destination
Thailand's growing tourism industry is driving demand for fashion and luxury goods, particularly among Chinese and Southeast Asian tourists. A mix of international and local brands, cater to diverse tastes and budgets, from luxury labels to affordable fast fashion. Brands are investing in large-scale shopping malls with a wide variety of brands and entertainment options. Brands are creating engaging shopping experiences that combine retail with entertainment and cultural elements.
Table: Thailand brand sales and market share
|
Brand |
Share of sales from Thailand |
Growth in Thailand (YoY) |
|
H&M |
6% |
10% |
|
Zara |
5% |
8% |
The Asian fashion landscape is multifaceted, offering numerous opportunities for brands that can adapt to its diverse consumer preferences and market dynamics. With localization, digital innovation, and sustainable practices, fashion companies can unlock the immense potential of these exciting markets and secure their position in the global fashion arena.
Spinnova and ASK Scandinavia have teamed up to introduce the Nova tote bag, a sustainable fashion item combining innovation and Nordic design. Made with fabric containing 30 per cent wood-based Spinnova fibres and 70 per cent cotton, the bag is dyed using a natural method developed by Natural Indigo Finland, utilizing coffee waste from Paulig's roastery. The Nova tote is now available for pre-order at ASK Scandinavia’s webshop.
The bag comes in amber, a colour created from coffee waste, showcasing ASK Scandinavia’s minimalist design ethos paired with durability and functionality for daily use. Paulig’s Helsinki-based coffee roastery, one of Europe’s largest, processes millions of coffee packages annually. Despite optimized processes, some coffee ground waste remains, which Natural Indigo Finland transforms into sustainable dyes.
Natural Indigo Finland’s eco-friendly dyeing process employs natural tannins and eliminates harmful chemicals, offering a greener alternative to conventional methods. “This collaboration strongly supports sustainable development goals in the textile industry,” said Pasi Ainasoja, CEO of Natural Indigo Finland.
Anette Cantagallo, Director of Design and Sustainability at ASK Scandinavia, emphasized the partnership’s innovative spirit: “The ASK and Spinnova bag represents Nordic design and pioneering technology, demonstrating how sustainability can shape purposeful fashion.”
This launch aligns with Spinnova’s strategy to expand fibre market applications alongside technology development. “We’re thrilled to collaborate with innovators addressing textile production challenges, from fibres to dyeing,” said Shahriare Mahmood, Chief Product and Sustainability Officer at Spinnova.
The Nova tote highlights a shared commitment to sustainability, making it a standout in eco-conscious fashion.
The Liva Protege Textiles Design Competition, a collaboration between Birla Cellulose and the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), concluded with a spectacular finale at the Jio World Convention Centre in Mumbai. Fifteen student finalists from various NIFT centres across India showcased their creations in Surface Design, Woven Design, and Print Design categories, reflecting their creativity and innovation.
Under the mentorship of renowned designer Karishma Shahani Khan, the students incorporated sustainability at the core of their designs, utilizing eco-friendly materials such as Livaeco fabrics, recycled yarns, and zero-waste techniques. Birla Cellulose’s commitment to promoting sustainable practices within the textile industry was evident throughout the event.
A distinguished jury panel, including Narendra Kumar, Ekta Saran, Deepa Chandran, Anupama Mohan, and Aspi Patel, evaluated the designs based on creativity, sustainability, and innovation. Senior leaders from Aditya Birla-Grasim Industries presented awards to the winners from NIFT Patna, Delhi, Bengaluru, and Hyderabad, who were celebrated for their exceptional talent and creativity.
The event also featured an insightful speaker session with Karishma Shahani Khan, Surya Vallari, and Sharmila Dua, offering valuable perspectives on sustainability and innovation in the textile industry. Manmohan Singh, CMO of Birla Cellulose, emphasized the competition's role in shaping a more sustainable future in fashion. The event highlighted the bright future of Gen Next designers and the importance of responsible design practices.
