FW
The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) and key industry leaders have welcomed former President Donald Trump’s executive order ending the de minimis provision for Chinese imports, effective May 2. The order targets a long-standing loophole that allowed low-value shipments often from Chinese e-commerce platforms to enter the US duty-free and largely unregulated.
Kim Glas, President and CEO of the NCTO, praised the move as a vital measure to protect US manufacturers. “We are grateful to President Trump for closing this destructive loophole that has allowed illegal and unsafe goods, including those made with forced labor, to flood our market,” she said. Glas emphasized that the policy had led to the closure of 28 textile mills over the past 22 months and urged Congress to expand the ban to all countries to prevent circumvention.
Anderson Warlick, Chairman and CEO of Parkdale Mills, echoed the sentiment, highlighting the economic and human toll. “About half of all de minimis shipments include textile or apparel products. These undercut our industry while facilitating the entry of harmful goods, including those made with forced labor,” he said, urging broader action.
Amy Bircher Bruyn, CEO of MMI Textiles, described the loophole as a serious threat to national security and American jobs. Her company, which supports dozens of workers directly and hundreds indirectly, supplies critical materials for US military and law enforcement. “During Covid-19, we rapidly pivoted to supply PPE. Yet, we’ve been undermined by massive volumes of fast fashion imports entering duty-free,” she noted.
Ron Sytz, CEO of Beverly Knits, called the move ‘a lifeline’ for domestic manufacturers. His North Carolina-based business, operating for over four decades, was forced to lay off 175 workers due to unfair competition from de minimis imports. “We’re grateful for this action. It finally gives us a fighting chance to reinvest, grow, and hire again,” he said.
Industry leaders now call on the administration and Congress to eliminate the de minimis exemption for all countries, warning that China could reroute goods through third nations to evade the new restriction.
The US textile industry, employing nearly half a million workers, sees this move as a critical first step in restoring fair trade and revitalizing domestic manufacturing.
Leading textile company, Sportking India’s Q4, FY25 net profit increased by 58 per cent to Rs 360 million ($4.3 million), as against Rs 230 million in the same quarter last year.
The company registered a 3 per cent rise in revenue to Rs 6.29 billion during the quarter, compared to Rs 6.11 billion in the corresponding quarter of the previous fiscal year.
For full FY24, the company reported revenues worth Rs 25.24 billion with a net profit of Rs 1.09 billion.
According to Munish Avasthi, Chairman and Managing Director, the company’s Q4 performance continued the strong trajectory established in the earlier quarters, with strong export revenue growth and margin expansion due to softer input costs contributing to a 58 per cent Y-o-Y increase in profit after tax.”
Supported by healthy demand trends and stable input costs, domestic operating environment continues to be favorable, helping the company maintain yarn spread levels. Combined with its strength in efficient manufacturing, prudent resource management, and a steadfast commitment to quality, this enables the company to sustain its growth momentum into the next financial year, he adds.
Founded in 1989, Sportking owns three manufacturing facilities in India equipped to produce a diversified range of textiles to cater to the demands of the weaving and knitting industry.
Puma plans to relocate its UK headquarters from London to Manchester. The sportswear company has committed to a 20,000 sq ft office space at Circle Square complex, the Oxford Road Corridor development.
This move aligns with the brand’s preparations to establish its first-ever European flagship store on Oxford Street this fall. The 24,000-sq-ft store will offer an immersive, interactive experience by blending streetwear styles with technology and sports performance.
The new headquarters is already home to a growing community of retail tech and digital-first businesses, making it a strategic step in its ongoing transformation and a future-facing base for Puma’s UK operations.
Liz Hershfield, a veteran in fashion and sustainability, has been appointed Executive Director of Cotton Council International (CCI), the export promotion arm of the National Cotton Council of America (NCC). She succeeds Bruce Atherley, who retired in March.
Bringing decades of expertise in global sourcing, product development, and end-to-end supply chain strategy, Hershfield is expected to bolster CCI’s mission through its flagship Cotton USA brand. “Strong leadership and innovative strategies are essential to maintaining US cotton's competitive edge,” said NCC President & CEO Gary Adams. “Liz is well poised to elevate Cotton USA programs and expand opportunities for US cotton growers.”
Hershfield emphasized the importance of US cotton’s story, which she says is deeply rooted in quality, innovation, and a commitment to sustainability. “There’s never been a more important time to champion US cotton,” she noted, pledging to strengthen its global presence.
Her extensive career includes leadership roles at J Crew, Madewell, and Gap Inc, as well as founding Green-ish, a consultancy that helps brands navigate environmental, social, and governance (ESG) challenges. Recognized for her leadership in sustainable fashion, Hershfield received the Textile Exchange Ryan Young Climate+ Award for her work on a regenerative cotton initiative and was named to both The Lead's "The Direct 60" and the Rivet 50 Index.
In her new role, Hershfield aims to drive global demand and preference for US cotton by highlighting “The Cotton USA Difference” a blend of premium quality and trusted partnerships across the global textile supply chain.
While Tamil Nadu continues its reign as the top textile exporting state in India, a deeper dive into the data reveals a nuanced perspective on its leadership across various textile and apparel (T&A) export sectors. Despite holding a significant overall share, the state's dominance in all categories necessitates a closer examination.
State-wise breakdown of textile exports
In the fiscal year 2024-25, Tamil Nadu contributed $7.99 billion to India's total textile exports of $36.61 billion, capturing 26.81 per cent of the market. The breakdown by export category highlights its strength in readymade garments, cotton yarn/fabrics/made-ups & handloom products, and man-made yarns/fabrics/made-ups.
Readymade garments: Tamil Nadu leads with an estimated contribution of approximately $4.28 billion.
Cotton yarn/fabrics/made-ups & handloom products: Contributes about $2.90 billion.
Man-made yarns/fabrics/made-ups: With an estimated share of around $0.58 billion.
Comparatively, Gujarat, Maharashtra, Karnataka, and Uttar Pradesh also play significant roles in specific export categories, reflecting their unique strengths in cotton processing, synthetic textiles, and powerloom sectors.
The role of integrated ecosystems in export success
Tamil Nadu's textile export success is often attributed to its well-integrated ecosystem spanning from yarn production to garment manufacturing. This integrated approach offers several advantages crucial for export competitiveness. For example, proximity of production stages minimizes transportation time. Similarly, local sourcing and in-house processing reduces operational costs. Increase, oversight ensures high-quality products. Moreover, agility in adapting to market demands and trends.
Tiruppur, the knitwear capital
Tiruppur exemplifies the benefits of such integration. Known as India's 'Knitwear capital,' it hosts spinning mills, knitting units, dyeing facilities, and garment manufacturers in close proximity. This clustering facilitates efficient production and makes Tiruppur a preferred hub for global knitwear buyers. As A Sakthivel from FIEO emphasizes, the integrated nature of Tamil Nadu's textile industry, especially in clusters like Tiruppur, gives the state a significant advantage in meeting global apparel demands.
Beyond integration, factors influencing apparel exports
However, relying solely on integration may oversimplify the complexities of global markets:
- Market access and trade agreements: Crucial for competitive positioning.
- Design and innovation: Essential for consumer appeal and market differentiation.
- Branding and marketing: Critical for enhancing value realization.
- Logistics and infrastructure: Ensures timely delivery and customer satisfaction.
- Policy environment: Shapes export competitiveness through regulatory frameworks.
- Sustainability: Increasingly important for ethical consumerism and regulatory compliance.
For example, Bhiwandi in Maharashtra is a major powerloom center producing a large volume of fabrics. However, the apparel manufacturing sector in the region is not as integrated. While it produces fabric, a significant portion is sent to other centers for garmenting. Despite being a large fabric producer, Bhiwandi's direct apparel exports might not be as high as regions with more integrated units. This suggests that simply having fabric production capabilities doesn't automatically translate to high apparel exports without a strong garmenting ecosystem and focus.
Thus while Tamil Nadu leads India's textile exports overall, its leadership across all sectors requires deeper understanding. An integrated ecosystem provides a strong foundation but must be complemented by initiatives in design, branding, market access, and sustainability. The textile landscape continues to evolve, requiring adaptable strategies to maintain and increase global competitiveness. Tamil Nadu's textile export leadership is a testament to its integrated capabilities, yet ongoing innovation and alignment with global trends are essential for sustained growth in the dynamic T&A market.
The European Environment Agency (EEA) report's revelation of growing textile consumption and waste in Europe underscores a pressing environmental challenge. In 2022, the average European consumed 19 kg of textiles, generating 6.94 million tonnes of waste. This rise, coupled with the alarming 85 per cent of textile waste ending up in landfills or incinerators, necessitates a comprehensive response.
The environmental footprint
The EEA report emphasizes the significant environmental pressure exerted by textile production and consumption. This includes resource depletion such as high water and land consumption for raw material production for example cotton. Manufacturing, transportation, and disposal leads to greenhouse gas emissions. The use of harmful dyes and treatments lead to chemical pollution. And shedding from synthetic textiles leads to microplastic release.
"These data highlight the need for policymakers, industry and consumers to play their part in helping Europe move away from fast fashion and produce better quality, more durable textiles designed to last longer, be reusable, repairable and recyclable," the EEA emphasised.
Table: EU’s average T&A purchase and wastage
|
Category |
Average purchase (kg/person, 2022) |
|
|
Clothing |
8 |
|
|
Home Textiles |
7 |
|
|
Shoes |
4 |
|
|
Total Textiles |
19 |
|
|
Textile Waste |
||
|
Metric |
Value (2022) |
Change from 2019 |
|
Total Textile Waste (tonnes) |
6.94 million |
Stable Since 2016 |
|
Textile Waste (kg/person) |
16 |
Stable Since 2016 |
|
Non-Separately Collected Textile Waste |
85% |
N/A |
The most concerning aspect is the management of textile waste. Despite a slight increase in separate collection (up 4.3 percentage points since 2016), almost 85 per cent of textile waste ends up in landfills or incinerators, preventing reuse and recycling. This reflects a massive failure in the circular economy for textiles.
However, the concerning trend of escalating textile consumption and waste isn't confined to Europe. The US also grapples with significant challenges, driven by similar factors like fast fashion and consumer behavior.
Table: The EU-US comparison
|
Metric |
EU (2022) |
US (latest data) |
Notes |
|
Textile Consumption Per Capita |
19 kg |
Approximately 37.8 kg |
Data variability exists, but US consumption is significantly higher. Sources vary on the exact number. Source of the USA number is from the Japan Chemical Fibers Association. |
|
Textile Waste Per Capita |
16 kg |
Data varies greatly. Landfilled waste is roughly 48 kg. |
The US generates a very large amount of textile waste. Data from the EPA shows that in 2018, 17 million tons of textile waste was generated. |
|
Percentage of Textile Waste Landfilled |
85% (non-separately collected) |
High Percentage. 11.3 million tons of textile waste was landfilled in 2018. |
US landfills take on a very large amount of textile waste. |
|
Key Regulatory Focus |
EU Textile Strategy, CSRD, ESPR |
Largely voluntary initiatives, growing focus on sustainability. |
The EU has more unified, and strict regulation. The USA regulations vary, and are less unified. |
|
Fast Fashion Impact |
Significant |
Very significant |
Both regions are heavily impacted. |
The table indicates the comparison between the EU and the US
Higher consumption in the US: Per capita textile consumption is notably higher in the US compared to the EU. This is due to factors like larger average living spaces, a strong culture of consumerism, and widespread accessibility of fast fashion. The US has a robust fast fashion market.
Significant waste generation: Both regions generate substantial textile waste, posing environmental challenges. The percentage of textile waste that ends up in landfills is high for both. According to the EPA, 11.3 million tons of textile waste was landfilled in the US in 2018.
Regulatory differences: The EU is taking a more proactive approach through comprehensive regulations like the EU Textile Strategy and the CSRD. The US approach relies more on voluntary initiatives, although there's increasing pressure for stricter regulations. While recycling initiatives exist, the infrastructure is less developed compared to some European countries.
Fast fashion dominance: Fast fashion significantly impacts both, driving excessive consumption and waste. The US has a strong consumer culture, contributing to the demand for fast fashion and disposable clothing.
Factors driving the trend
What’s pushing the environmental impact is the rise of fast fashion, characterized by low prices and rapid turnover that fuels excessive consumption. A culture of disposability and a desire for constant novelty contribute to high waste generation. For example, Shein the ultra-fast fashion retailer exemplifies the problem, releasing thousands of new items daily. Reports show the extremely low quality of clothing, and the huge amount of waste generated. This is a very large contributor to the increasing amount of clothing waste.
Also, insufficient collection and recycling infrastructure hinders effective waste management. The prices of new clothing are very low, which does not reflect the true cost of production. For example, the Kantamanto Market in Accra, Ghana, is a stark example of the environmental and social consequences of textile waste dumping. Tons of discarded clothing from Europe and North America end up there, creating massive pollution and posing health risks to local communities. This highlights the global impact of Europe's textile consumption.
The ESG connection
The EEA report's emphasis on the environmental pressures of textile production aligns directly with the ‘E’ (environmental) pillar of ESG. Resource depletion, greenhouse gas emissions, chemical pollution, and microplastic release are all critical environmental concerns that businesses must address under ESG frameworks. The ‘S’ (social) pillar is equally relevant. The social implications of fast fashion, such as poor labor conditions in manufacturing and the detrimental impact of textile waste on communities in developing countries, are increasingly scrutinized under ESG criteria. The ‘G’ (governance) pillar relates to the regulatory and ethical frameworks that guide businesses. The EU's push for sustainable textiles, including the mandatory separate collection directive, reflects a growing emphasis on governance in the textile industry.
The EU directive and the path forward
The EU has unveiled its Textile Strategy, aiming to make textiles more durable, repairable, reusable, and recyclable. This includes measures to combat greenwashing and promote sustainable production. The EU directive mandating selective textile collection from January 1, 2025, is a crucial step. However, its success depends on:
Effective implementation: Member states must establish robust collection and sorting systems.
Investment in recycling technology: Advanced recycling technologies are needed to process textile waste.
Consumer education: Raising awareness about sustainable consumption and the importance of textile recycling.
Industry responsibility: Encouraging brands to adopt circular design principles and extended producer responsibility.
Extended producer responsibility: The producers should be responsible for the waste they produce.
Egypt’s RMG Council aims to increase its exports to $12 billion by 2031. The council has also revised its annual export target for 2025 by 35 per cent to $3.8 billion, from its previous projections.
In March 2025, the Council increased its RMG exports by 27 per cent Y-o-Y to approximately $262 million as against $206 million in March 2024, as per figures released by the Ready-Made Garments Export Council.
The council registered strongest monthly growth in February 2025, when its exports rose by 35 per cent compared to the same period last year. On the contrary, exports in January 2025 registered a modest growth of 11 per cent.
The largest destination for the Council’s RMG exports remains United States, with RMG exports worth $102 million in March 2025. This was followed by the European markets with exports worth $66 million, while exports to the Arab nations totaled $40 million. The Council’s exports to other international markets totaled $53 million while exports to non-Arab African countries stood at approximately $1.2 million.
Confederation of Indian Industry (CII) -Amritsar organized a seminar titled ‘Future of Technical Textiles’ to explore the shift in the city’s traditional textile industry toward innovation-driven technical textiles. The seminar was held in collaboration with Guru Nanak Dev University (GNDU).
Davinder Singh, Chairman, CII-Amritsar, emphasized, it's time to establish the city as a progressive hub for innovation in the technical textile sector. This transformation will be built on a strong foundation of collaboration between industry and academia, he added.
Dr Karamjeet Singh, Vice-Chancellor, Guru Nanak Dev University, stated, the University plans to offer in-depth research, training programs, industry-focused studies, technology consulting, and support to entrepreneurs looking to enter the technical textile sector. The Golden Jubilee Innovation and Entrepreneurship Centre has already been providing expertise and industry networking support for registered companies in the textile, garment, and handloom industries.
Babette Desfossez, Trade Commissioner, Flanders Investment & Trade (Belgium) shared success stories from the thriving technical textile sector in Belgium.
Fueled by a growing awareness of sustainability and natural fibers in fashion, the value of the United States wool industry is projected to reach $555.6 million by 2032, experiencing a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 4.1 per cent from 2025 to 2032.
As both consumers and companies prioritize eco-friendly and sustainable products, wool's inherent qualities as a renewable, biodegradable, and carbon-neutral fiber have become key selling points. The growth of this market is also driven by an increased demand for premium wool apparel, including suits, sweaters, and activewear, alongside its use in home textiles like carpets and bedding. The US wool market is witnessing heightened demand not only for traditional applications but also in emerging sectors such as medical and insulation.
The US wool market is segmented by product type (fine, medium, and coarse), end-user (fashion and apparel, home textiles, industrial, and medical), and application. Fine wool is most sought after for high-end fashion due to its soft texture and dye absorption. Medium wool is popular for home textiles, while coarse wool is used in industrial products. Fashion and apparel currently hold the largest market share, with home textiles also significantly contributing. Industrial applications like insulation are gaining traction, diversifying the market.
While the US is a primary consumer of wool, particularly in fashion and textiles, the market is also influenced by major wool producers like Australia and New Zealand, key exporters to the US Innovations in wool production and processing in these regions are expected to benefit the US market through improved quality and cost efficiency. With its long history of wool production and consumption, Europe is another significant demand center, with many US brands sourcing wool from European markets known for their quality and established supply chains.
Sustainability trends in European wool markets are also likely to influence U.S. market developments.
The US wool market's strong growth is driven by several factors, notably sustainability. Wool's eco-friendly attributes align perfectly with the increasing consumer and manufacturer preference for natural and sustainable materials. The rising popularity of high-performance wool in activewear, due to its moisture-wicking and temperature-regulating properties, is another significant driver. Technological advancements in wool processing are also enhancing its functionality and appeal.
Despite growth prospects, the US wool market faces challenges, including price volatility due to supply fluctuations and global demand. Competition from cheaper synthetic fibers also poses a restraint. However, the market is poised to capitalize on opportunities such as the growth of sustainable fashion and the expanding use of wool in industrial applications like insulation and medical textiles, where its natural and beneficial properties are increasingly valued.
As the global textile industry faces mounting pressure to adopt sustainable and circular solutions, the organisers of the upcoming Textiles Recycling Expo will host a key press conference in Brussels on May 6, 2025. This pre-event gathering aims to inform and engage media, stakeholders, and policymakers ahead of the highly anticipated expo and conference scheduled for June 4-5 in Brussels, Belgium.
The press conference will highlight the urgent need for innovation, collaboration, and regulatory progress in textile recycling and circular economy strategies. Zied Chetoui, Event Manager of the Textiles Recycling Expo, will open the session, outlining the expo’s vision and its vital role in addressing the industry's major challenges.
Attendees will hear from leading industry figures, including Karla Basselier, CEO of Fedustria; Julia Ettinger, Secretary General of EuRIC; Dirk Vantyghem, Director General of Euratex; and a representative from ReHubs. These speakers will share insights into upcoming policy shifts, collaborative efforts, and the industry’s evolving landscape.
Set in Brussels, a hub for European policymaking and sustainability initiatives, the press conference will also align with the International Day of Zero Waste and EU Green Week. The event is open to both in-person and virtual participants and will provide an early look at the conference programme, key partnerships, and the broader vision for accelerating textile circularity.
Organised by AMI, a leading event and publishing firm specialising in recycling, the Textiles Recycling Expo is poised to become a central platform for showcasing global innovation. AMI’s portfolio includes renowned recycling expos across Europe, the USA, and India, as well as expert publications like Plastics Recycling World and TextilesLoop.
