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Backed by the US-headquartered global investment firm Platinum Equity, intimate apparel designer and manufacturer,Hop Lun has finalised the acquisition of Hong Kong-based PH Garment. This transaction represents Hop Lun's second add-on acquisition in the last six months, following the acquisition of Rainbow West Apparel in December 2023.
Jacob Kotzubei, Co-President and Matthew Louie, Managing Director, Platinum Equity reiterated the company's commitment to expand and diversify Hop Lun's capabilities, enhance its scale, and deliver added value to its customers.
A specialist in private label manufacturing of bras, shapewear, and active wear, PH Garment has three manufacturing facilities located in Bangladesh and China.
Established in 1992, Hong Kong-headquartered Hop Lun boasts a workforce of over 28,000 employees spread across its operations in Bangladesh, Indonesia, China, and Hong Kong.
In a united front against the proposed tax changes in the upcoming 2024-25 budget, value-added textile exporters have vehemently rejected the introduction of a minimum tax regime that includes extensive scrutiny. They argue that this move would replace the existing Final Tax Regime (FTR) and create unnecessary complications, potentially increasing the risk of corruption.
At a press conference held at the PHMA House, representatives of the Value-Added Textile Exporters Forum voiced their concerns. Muhammad Jawed Bilwani, Chief Coordinator of the Value-Added Textile Associations Forum, stated, this proposed shift will lead to unnecessary hassle and involve Federal Board of Revenue (FBR) officials, which may increase the risk of corruption.
Currently, under the FTR, a 1 percent tax is deducted electronically from export remittances, with no human intervention. Bilwani explained, from the next fiscal year, it has been proposed that this 1 percent should be treated as a minimum tax, requiring exporters to submit documents justifying their income and expenditures.”
Bilwaniemphasised that the FTR allows income tax to be deducted directly at the source when remittances are received, regardless of profit or loss. He highlighted the issue of corruption within the FBR, referencing the recent ‘speed-money case’ in LTU Lahore where FBR officials were implicated in corrupt practices.
The textile exporters urged the government to maintain the current Final Tax Regime without changes. They also requested a reduction in the income tax rate from 1 percent to 0.5 per cent. Bilwani noted, exporters file their Sales Tax Refunds electronically through the FASTER system, which ensures no human intervention and efficient claim processing and disbursement.
The exporters warned that the proposed changes would be counterproductive, potentially leading to a significant reduction in Pakistan’s export revenue and foreign exchange earnings. They cautioned,if these changes go through, Pakistan could lose out to countries like India, Bangladesh, Cambodia, and Vietnam.”
Moreover, they criticised the lack of consultation by the Finance Minister, Chairman FBR, and Commerce Minister with the Textile Export Associations regarding the Federal Budget 2024-2025. Despite forming 14 Tax Reform Commissions over the years, effective restructuring and reforms have not been achieved, they noted.
The export industry is already burdened with multiple taxes from federal, provincial, and local governments, as well as other surcharges and levies. Bilwani urged,the industry needsto bring back policy discount rates back to single digits and return Export Finance Scheme (EFS) rates to previous levels. Additionally, the industry needs to allowexporters back-to-back Letters of Credit (LC) on a model similar to Bangladesh.
The press conference was attended by key industry figures including Abdul JabbarGajiani, Chairman PHMA (SZ), Sheikh Shafiq, Chief Coordinator, PRGMEA, and other notable representatives from various textile associations. The Value-Added Textile Associations encompass major groups such as the Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers & Exporters Association (PHMA), Pakistan Readymade Garment Manufacturers & Exporters Association (PRGMEA), and several others.
China's deepening economic ties with Pakistan are sending ripples through the South Asian textile industry, particularly impacting India, a long-standing competitor in the global market.
Collaboration that fosters growth
As per WTO, China is the world's largest textile and apparel exporter, accounting for over 33 per cent of global textile exports in 2022. India meanwhile is the second-largest exporter, holding a 13 per cent share. Though smaller, Pakistan holds a significant 4 per cent share in global textile exports. : As per Pakistan Bureau of Statistics the country’s textile exports have been steadily increasing, reaching $35 billion in 2023. This growth is partly due to the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC) initiative, which has seen significant Chinese investments in Pakistani infrastructure and textile production facilities. As per CPEC Authority, China has invested over $25 billion in Pakistan's textile sector since 2015. This investment is expected to create numerous textile zones and modernize Pakistan's textile infrastructure.
Indeed, China's strategic investment in Pakistan's textile sector, through the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC) initiative, is fostering closer collaboration. Existing FTAs between China and Pakistan allow duty-free movement of raw materials and finished goods, making Pakistan a competitive production hub for Chinese companies. Also, CPEC projects are improving transportation and logistics networks within Pakistan, facilitating faster movement of textiles between China and global markets.
Sector-wise scrutiny
Fiber: India enjoys a natural advantage in cotton production, a key textile fiber. However, China's dominance in synthetic fibers like polyester could pose a threat if Pakistan leverages Chinese technology and lower production costs. Pakistan signed a $1.5 billion deal with China in 2023 to import high-yielding cotton seeds, potentially reducing reliance on Indian cotton. The Spinners' Association of India (SAI) has expressed concerns about rising yarn imports from China into Pakistan, which could be re-exported to other markets at lower prices. India however, can focus on specialty fibers like organic cotton or high-performance fibers to cater to niche markets.
Yarns: Both India and China are major yarn producers. Increased competition from China-Pakistan collaboration could put pressure on Indian yarn exports, particularly in low-cost segments.
Fabrics: Here, the story is nuanced. India has a strong reputation for high-quality fabrics like silk and cotton. China excels in mass-produced, cheaper fabrics. Pakistan can potentially bridge the gap, offering a mix of quality and affordability. This could create a three-way competition, potentially benefiting consumers. However, India's strength lies in diverse fabric production. Focusing on traditional textiles and value-added fabrics can create a unique market position.
Apparel: China is a powerhouse in ready-made garments. While Pakistan has growing apparel industry, India boasts a strong domestic market and established brands. The impact on India's apparel exports hinges on Pakistan's ability to scale and cater to international markets. Joint ventures between Chinese and Pakistani apparel companies could lead to increased competition for Indian garment exporters, especially in low-cost segments. In Tirupur, the knitwear hub for example, while some fear job losses due to rising competition, others see it as an opportunity to innovate and focus on high-value knitwear segments. In Surat, the MMF hub of India, the industry acknowledges the challenge but emphasizes the need for skill development and technological advancements to stay competitive.
Indeed, China's growing presence in Pakistan's textile sector presents both challenges and opportunities for India. While competition might intensify in certain segments, India can leverage its strengths in diverse fabric production, skilled labor, and a large domestic market to carve a niche in the global textile landscape. Investing in research & development, technological advancements, and brand building will be crucial for India's textile industry to thrive in the face of this evolving dynamic.
Diesel is revamping its image of sustainability with a five-part documentary series titled ‘Behind the Denim’. The fashion brand, known for its bold and irreverent style, recognizes that conversations about sustainability can often feel bland. Their solution: a fun and informative approach that stays true to Diesel's DNA.
"We wanted to say something in Diesel style, still rigorous but avoid being tedious," explains Andrea Rosso, Diesel's sustainability ambassador and son of the brand's founder Renzo Rosso. Each episode of ‘Behind the Denim’ dives into a different aspect of Diesel's denim production process, following the journey from cotton fields to factory floors and ultimately, to customer closets. The focus: highlighting Diesel's commitment to creating lower-impact denim.
An indepth look with a light touch
Hosted by Lea Ogunlami of I-D magazine, each episode tackles a core principle of Diesel's denim production. With titles like ‘All Aboard and ‘Waste to Treasure’, the series promises a comprehensive look without shying away from tough questions. Ogunlami will ask about the true meaning of ‘circularity’ in fashion and explore Diesel's use of recycled materials in its ‘Rehab Denim’ line.
The lighthearted and informative approach extends to interviews with key figures at Diesel. Glenn Martens, Andrea Rosso (Diesel's sustainability ambassador and son of the founder), and Sara Betteghella (OTB Group chief sustainability officer) all feature in the series.
Transparency and a commitment to progress
Diesel is aware that sustainability requires constant effort. The brand acknowledges it's not perfect and is still working on areas like complete supply chain certification, a notoriously complex and expensive endeavor.
However, Diesel is taking concrete steps. They've joined initiatives like the Aura Blockchain Consortium and the Fashion Pact to promote transparency and responsible practices across the fashion industry. They've also significantly reduced water and chemical use in their denim production processes.
Sustainability as a journey, not a destination
Diesel emphasizes sustainability is a journey, not a destination. The brand highlights its use of organic and recycled cotton, reaching 50 per cent of its denim collection made with these lower-impact materials. They are committed to finding new, innovative solutions while acknowledging the need for balance with creativity in fashion design.
‘Behind the Denim’ launched on Diesel's social media channels and online platform in April 2024. New episodes will be released monthly until November, with a break in July and August. This fresh take on sustainability education has Diesel hoping to raise awareness and inspire positive change within the fashion industry.
Cambodia’s textile and apparels exports increased 22 per cent Y-o-Y to $3.628 billion during the first five months of this year, as per reports by the Ministry of Commerce.
The country’s exports in the garments footwear and travel goods (GFT ) rose by 20 per cent Y-o-Y to $4.969 billion. Its footwear exports rose by 10 per cent Y-o-Y to $615 million Employing 918,000 workers, the GFT sector comprises around 1,680 factories and branches, according to the ministry of labor and vocational training.
Between January-May 2024, Cambodia’s foreign trade rose by 12 per cent Y-o-Y as per data. The country’s total trade volume increased to $21.6 billionfrom $19.2 billion during the same period last year. It exports rose by 10.8 per cent Y-o-Y to $10.18 billion during this period while imports expanded by 13.6 per cent Y-o-Y to $11.4 billion.
According to the World Bank, Cambodia’s economic growth is expected to improve marginally to 5.8 per cent this year from 5.6 per cent in 2023, and should further strengthen to 6.1 per cent in 2025 and 6.4 per cent in 2026 as revival in GFT exports and tourism propel the ongoing recovery.
Giriraj Singh, Member of Parliament from the BegusaraiLoksabha constituency in Bihar has been appointed as the new Minister of Textiles in the third term of the NarendraModi-led National Democratic Alliance (NDA) government.
A former Minister of Cooperative, Animal Husbandry and Fisheries Resources Development in the Government of Bihar, Singh served as the Minister of State (Independent Charge) in the Ministry of Micro Small and Medium Enterprises during Modi’s first term.
He also became the Cabinet Minister in the newly formed Ministry of Animal Husbandry, Dairying and Fisheries in May 2019. After the Cabinet reshuffle, he was appointed as the Minister of Rural Development and Minister of Panchayati Raj in second Modi ministry.
A Member of Parliament, representing Assam in the RajyaSabha since March 2022, PabitraMargherita, has been appointed as the new Minister of State for Textiles. He served as a spokesperson of Assam BJP in 2014, and as a prabhari of Social Media Cell of Assam BJP. He also served as Member Secretary of State Level Advisory Committee for Students and Youth Welfare, Govt of Assam from November 2021 to March 2022.
Mixed Signals from Textile and Apparel Sector: Textile index falls as apparel index shows resilience
The latest Wazir Textile & Apparel Index Reports reveal a contrasting performance for the Indian textile and apparel industry in FY24. While the Wazir Apparel Index (WAI) indicates a positive trend, the Wazir Textile Index (WTI) paints a concerning picture.
Textile industry struggles with profitability despite sales growth
Sales up, profits down: The WTI Sales Index witnessed a modest 2 per cent increase in FY24 compared to FY23. However, this positive sales growth wasn't mirrored in profitability. The WTI EBITDA Index, a measure of earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortization, saw a concerning 10 per cent decline year-on-year. This indicates that despite an increase in sales, textile companies are struggling to maintain profit margins.
Shrinking margins: This disparity is further highlighted by the consolidated EBITDA margin for top textile companies. Despite a 2 per cent increase in sales, the EBITDA margin as a percentage of sales dropped by a significant 1 percentage point in FY24. While the report doesn't provide details on cost breakdown, it's possible factors like employee expenses or other operational costs could be putting pressure on margins.
Apparel sector shows resilience
Modest sales growth, stable margins: The Wazir Apparel Index (WAI) tells a different story. The WAI Sales Index displayed a marginal increase of 0.3 per cent in FY24 compared to FY23. While the sales growth wasn't substantial, it indicates a level of stability in the apparel sector. This suggests apparel companies might be managing costs more effectively or benefiting from favorable market conditions compared to their textile counterparts.
Profitability on the rise: Interestingly, the WAI EBITDA Index bucked the trend and actually increased by 1 per cent year-on-year. Additionally, the apparel sector managed to maintain its consolidated EBITDA margin as a percentage of sales, indicating a focus on cost control and efficiency. The consolidated EBITDA margin for WAI companies remained unchanged, indicating apparel companies are able to maintain their profit margins despite stagnant sales growth.
Overall industry performance a cause for concern
Sales down, profits down further: Looking at the performance of all listed textile and apparel companies combined, the picture becomes more concerning. Consolidated sales for the entire sector declined by 3 per cent in FY24 compared to FY23. This suggests that despite the apparel sector's resilience, the overall industry is facing headwinds.
Profitability takes a hit: The decline in profitability is even more stark. Consolidated EBITDA for all listed companies witnessed a drop of 2 percentage points in FY24 compared to FY23. This significant decrease highlights the challenges the industry is facing in maintaining profitability.
Unpacking the divergence
The contrasting performances of the WTI and WAI raise questions about the factors driving this divergence. A deeper analysis of raw material costs, export trends, and company-specific strategies within each sector might reveal the reasons behind these contrasting results.
This mixed performance underscores the need for the textile industry to address profitability concerns. Strategies to improve operational efficiency, explore new markets, and potentially adapt product lines could be crucial for navigating the current economic climate. The apparel sector, while showing signs of resilience, should also remain vigilant and adapt its strategies as needed.
Aprominent men's fashion network with 53 branches across the country, Mania Jeans has launched a new men's evening collection with a million-shekel marketing campaign.
Rich and diverse, the collection makes a distinct and unique fashion statement, says EliorAslan, Vice President-Marketing. It features a wide range of colors, cuts and garments, and is tailored for young men seeking a blend of style and innovation, emphasises the network.
Noted for its use of innovative fabric technology, the collection enhances durability and appearance. It offers a variety of luxurious evening outfits and accessories designed for an elegant evening look. The collection combines the customers’ need for elegance with latest fashion trends and ultimate comfort, adds Aslan. The million-shekel campaign is led by international artist Josie Zira.
Under the leadership of Prime Minister, NarenderModi, the Central Government has set a target to boost its textile production to $250 billion by 2030. The government also aims to increase textile exports to $100 billion by 2030, with $40 billion specifically from apparel exports. A significant industry for India, the textile and apparel industry currently contributes to over 4 per cent of its total GDP and 14 per cent of its total annual export earnings.
Impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic, India's textile and apparel industry has struggled to recover fully, raising concerns among industry stakeholders and the government. The government has implemented several measures to enhance the sector's global competitiveness, focusing on a holistic approach to make it more vibrant and innovative.
One of the largest manufacturing sectors in the country, the textile and apparel sector has a rich history of development in India. The country is the world’s second-largest textile exporter with a 7.4 per cent share in the global market. India is also world’s fifth-largest garment exporter with a 3.1 per centshare in the global market, as per WTO data released in 2023.
Apparel production in India is currently valued at $52 billion, with $14 to $17 billion from exports and around $35 to $38 billion from the domestic market. In the last five years, India’s garment exports remained stable between $14 billion and $17 billion. In the fiscal year 2023-24, garment exports from the country declined by 10.2 per cent to $14.53 billion, compared to $16.19 billion in FY 2022-23.
Textile exports also declined by 12.5 per centto $19.4 billion in 2022 with a global market share of 7.4 per cent, according to the WTO data. However, the Manufacturing of Textiles Index for FY 2023-24 increased by 0.4 per cent to 108.2 compared to the previous year (APEC).
To boost exports growth, the Indian government has introduced various schemes such as Remission of Duties and Taxes on Exported Products (RoDTEP), Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies (RoSCTL), the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme, and the PM Mega Integrated Textile Region and Apparel (PM MITRA) park. Free trade agreements (FTAs) are also being explored to reduce non-tariff barriers in existing markets.
The PLI scheme aims to increase participation in the man-made fiber and technical textile sectors, while the PM-MITRA park is designed to enhance scalability. Additionally, initiatives like RoDTEP and RoSCTL ensure the stability of incentives for exporters.
Held on June 11, 2024, the 2nd Bangladesh Circular Economy Summit focused on the shifting of the Bangladesh apparel and textile industries to a circular model from the current linear one.
Organised by the Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) in collaboration with the GIZ Bangladesh and in association with the Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands at the Radisson Blu, Water Garden Hotel in Dhaka, the summit comprised four plenary sessions, three panel discussions, and one breakout session.
The summit was launched by Jahangir Kabir Nanak, Minister of Textiles & Jute, Government of the People’s Republic of Bangladesh, as the Chief Guest. Other special guests at the summit includedSiddiqurRahman, former President, BGMEA; ThijsWoudstra, Deputy Head - Mission, Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, Bangladesh; and Jan Janowski, Deputy Head of Mission, Embassy of Germany, Bangladesh.
The four plenary sessions focused on the topics, ‘Formalising the Informal Jhoot Sector’, ‘Closing the Loop of Textile Waste’, ‘Circular Design: Reality vs Challenges’, and ‘Transparency & Traceability in Circularity’.
A presentation on ‘EU Due Diligence and Legislations on Circularity’ was made by Charles Whiteley, Head - Delegation, Delegation of the European Union in Bangladesh followed by a presentation on ‘Market Incentives for Eco-design: The Case of Eco-modulation’ by Professor HarriKalimo, Co-Director, 3E (Environment, Economy and Energy) Research Center, Brussels School of Governance and a presentation on ‘A National Circular Textile Roadmap for Bangladesh’ by Patrick Schroeder, Senior Research Fellow, Chatham House.
The summit also held a breakout session on the topic, ‘Mapping the Way for RMG Circularity’ by the Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands in Bangladesh.
The summit aimed to accelerate the momentum of circularity in the apparel and textile industries in the country, saidMostafizUddin, Founder and CEO, Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE).Itfocused on enhancing sustainability in Bangladesh’s production process, and providing a valuable partner to the Netherlands in its circularity journey, adds Irma Van Dueren, Ambassador of the Kingdom of the Netherlands to Bangladesh.
Dr Michael Klode, Project Manager, Programfor Sustainability in the Textile and Leather Sector (STILE), GIZ, summed up, adopting a circular economy is being conscious of not just climate goals, but also business goals and competitiveness.
