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The textile industry is increasingly focusing on natural fibers and circularity, with new research and initiatives pointing towards a more sustainable future for fashion. Efforts are underway to redefine existing perceptions of fiber production and implement groundbreaking technologies for environmental responsibility.
Recalibrating cotton's water footprint
New global research from the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) challenges long-standing assumptions about cotton's water usage. The study, analysing cotton production data from 271 locations in 38 countries, reveals that cotton's irrigation water use is significantly lower than commonly believed. While cotton occupies approximately 2.92 per cent of the world's arable land, it accounts for only 2.76 per cent of total global agricultural irrigation water. The average irrigation water used globally for cotton production was found to be 2,346 liters per kg of lint. Importantly, the majority of the water used in cotton cultivation, around 74 per cent, originates from rainfall, not irrigation.
This revised understanding is attributed to methodological improvements and the widespread adoption of water-efficient irrigation systems like furrow, sprinkler/pivot, and drip irrigation, which have largely replaced traditional flood irrigation methods.
Table: Global cotton water use (Litres/kg lint)
|
Water Type |
Average Amount (Litres/kg lint) |
Percentage |
|
Irrigation |
2,346 |
26% |
|
Total (incl. Rainwater) |
8,927 |
100% |
Advancing organic cotton and traceability
The Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) has reached a milestone, with over 100,000 farmers enrolled in its Farm Programme for the 2024-25 cotton season. During the 2023-24 season, 82,264 farmers in India and Pakistan, including 35,070 in-conversion farmers, participated across 106,010 hectares, earning an average premium of 8 per cent above market price. The program has grown its network to include 18 brands, 14 implementing partners, and 11 seed partners. By the end of the season, 92 per cent of available organic cotton produced under the program was procured at higher prices by participating brands.
A detailed life cycle assessment (LCA) of Indian cotton production, commissioned by the OCA and conducted by South Pole, provides new insights into the environmental performance of organic versus conventional cotton systems across India's major growing regions. Organic systems performed better in almost every category, with the greatest relative improvements seen in hybrid and irrigated contexts. For instance, organic cotton under rainfed conditions showed a 35 per cent lower climate impact compared to conventional rainfed systems, while in irrigated contexts, the gap widened to 36 per cent, and in hybrid systems, it reached 62 per cent. These differences are primarily attributed to reduced fertilizer inputs and lower on-field emissions of nitrous oxide.
Meanwhile, the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol and Supima have partnered to increase cotton supply chain traceability, providing brands and retailers with unprecedented access to farm-level data. This collaboration leverages USDA's permanent bale identification system and TextileGenesis's traceability platform.
Table: Yields in organic cotton production
|
System Type |
Yield (kg/ha) |
|
Conventional-Rainfed |
1,509 |
|
Organic-Rainfed |
1,503 |
|
Conventional-Irrigated |
1,343 |
|
Organic-Irrigated |
1,278 |
|
Conventional-Hybrid |
1,245 |
|
Organic-Hybrid |
1,846 |
Notably, under hybrid irrigation, organic cotton shows a higher yield than conventional cotton.
Challenges and innovations in textile recycling
New research highlights a critical factor affecting cotton textile recycling: the degree of aging in the waste material. Studies show the mechanical quality of regenerated cellulose fibers significantly declines with increased thermal aging of source textiles. For example, fibers made from unaged textiles had a tensile strength of 204.83 megapascals, while those from textiles aged at 200°C fell to just 47.50 megapascals. This presents a dilemma between extending garment lifecycles through reuse and ensuring suitability for recycling.
Addressing these complexities, recycling technology companies are working to increase recycled content without sacrificing product quality and durability. RE&UP, for instance, produces Next-Gen recycled materials from both post-consumer and industrial textile waste, engineered to meet the performance standards of virgin materials. Their proprietary technology can recycle the majority of polycotton blends, facilitating the transition to a circular fashion model.
Brands like Wrangler are also actively involved in circular denim initiatives, exploring the delicate balance between durability and the use of natural and recycled fibers. Their participation in the Accelerating Circularity initiative aims to create regional systems for textile-to-textile recycling. Wrangler acknowledges that mechanical recycling can degrade fiber quality over time, making chemical recycling a promising but more investment-intensive alternative. The brand aims for 10-20% recycled cotton content without compromising durability and is focused on using mono-materials to ease recycling processes.
Sustainable practices in cotton and silk production
A recent study highlighted the environmental impacts of producing cotton T-shirts in Peru, identifying cotton production and the use phase of the garment as the most impactful stages. Energy, fertilizers, and water use were found to be the main environmental burdens, with irrigation water in cotton fields contributing 97 per cent of the Water Scarcity Footprint. The study suggests optimizing water use, reducing reliance on fertilizers, and promoting better garment use practices to mitigate these impacts.
In India, a socio-economic study in West Bengal revealed that sericulture is transforming lives, particularly for rural women, by providing economic empowerment and reducing marginalization. Women's involvement in various stages of silkworm rearing has led to increased household incomes and greater decision-making power. Self-help groups play a crucial role in providing access to resources, training, and collective support, leading to more efficient operations and preserving traditional knowledge.
The global silk industry is also exploring a transition to a circular economy model. A study by Politecnico di Milano identified six key areas for embedding circular practices: waste utilization, circular design, consumer education, technological advancement, traceability, and supportive government regulations. Repurposing silk production waste into fertilizers, animal feed, cosmetics, or spun silk products is a major opportunity.
Fashion for Good has announced a strategic partnership with materials science innovator AltMat to launch the Altag Fibre Club an industry-first initiative aimed at scaling next-generation fibres made from agricultural residue. This collaborative platform seeks to address longstanding barriers in adopting sustainable fibres by uniting innovators, manufacturers, and brands under one operational framework.
The Altag Fibre Club builds on Fashion for Good’s successful first Fibre Club with textile recycler Circ and Canopy in 2024. This latest initiative focuses on driving the commercialisation of AltMat’s fibres, derived from agricultural waste, and integrates them into mainstream production systems.
The fashion industry is under growing pressure to shift away from resource-intensive fibres, as materials account for 91 per cent of the sector’s total emissions and roughly 30 per cent of the cost of goods sold. Yet, systemic challenges from high upfront costs and limited production capacity to fragmented supply chains continue to block the adoption of innovative materials.
To overcome this bottleneck, the Altag Fibre Club enables participating brands to pool demand and commit to minimum order quantities, reducing risk for manufacturers and innovators alike. The consortium includes prominent supply chain players such as Adalberto, Alok, Arvind, Bhaskar Denim, Jindal Textiles, Maharaja Umaid Mills, Positive Materials, Sambandam Spinning Mills, Shahi Exports, Sutlej Textiles, Sweaters India, and Vrijesh Natural Fibre & Fabrics.
“Advancing the Fibre Club with AltMat marks a significant step in scaling innovative materials with real commercial potential,” said Katrin Ley, Managing Director at Fashion for Good. “By connecting breakthrough innovators like AltMat with committed brand partners, we’re building the infrastructure and demand needed to bring next-gen materials to market faster and more efficiently.”
AltMat’s CEO and Founder, Shikha Shah, added, “There’s no shortage of intent to adopt next-gen materials, but there is a lack of systems to actually make it happen. With the Altag Fibre Club, we are closing that gap by connecting every link in the value chain from farm to fibre to fashion. We’re not just introducing a fibre; we’re building the foundation for a new class of materials rooted in regeneration, resilience, and real-world scalability.”
The Altag Fibre Club will officially launch at the Future Fabrics Expo in London on 24–25 June 2025.
Customs Union modernisation key to EU competitiveness
Mustafa Gültepe, Chairman of the Turkish Exporters Assembly (TIM) and Istanbul Apparel Exporters’ Association (IHKIB), has stressed that the existing Customs Union between the European Union and Türkiye is limiting trade cooperation and must be urgently modernised. Speaking at the event titled “The Transformation Journey of the Turkish Apparel Industry”, Gültepe highlighted that Türkiye’s permanent competitive advantage in the EU market hinges on comprehensive reform of the Customs Union.
“We export approximately 70 percent of our apparel products to Europe. While our nearshore advantage strengthens our competitiveness in markets like Germany, Spain, and the Netherlands, this alone will not suffice in the long term,” Gültepe stated. “We are determined to accelerate our twin transformation digital and green and are actively using EU funds to support this shift, having secured 37 million euros in grants for ongoing and completed projects.”
He noted that the Turkish apparel industry now meets or surpasses European standards in recycling, carbon reduction, digitalisation, and social compliance. “Still, the Customs Union in its current form acts more as a constraint than a facilitator. Full modernisation is essential to secure a sustainable edge in the EU market.”
Turkiye must be included in EU FTAs
Calling for strategic reforms, Gültepe emphasised that Turkiye should be included in the EU’s free trade agreements (FTAs) with third countries to enable diagonal cumulation a move he says is vital for the apparel industry's global competitiveness.
“In line with shifting global economic paradigms, it is imperative that Türkiye be part of the EU's FTAs. We also believe the Customs Union must evolve to reflect new economic realities,” he added.
He warned that the growing global uncertainties from geopolitical tensions such as Israel-Iran hostilities to rising protectionist policies are disrupting value chains and adding financial risk. “Speed, flexibility, and sustainable production are now more strategic than low cost. Türkiye, with its strong production ecosystem, remains the most reliable representative of the nearshoring model.”
Nearshoring, infrastructure, and industry support initiatives
Gültepe highlighted Türkiye’s robust infrastructure from fabrics and accessories to dyeing and sewing as enabling shorter lead times, lower emissions, and faster delivery. “We have a strong logistics backbone and comply rapidly with environmental norms. Our institutions such as the Digital Transformation Center, Ekoteks Laboratory, Istanbul Moda Academy, and İHKİB Academy play key roles in this evolution.”
He announced the launch of the Midas Project, funded by the EU’s European Digital Innovation Hubs (EDIH), which will strengthen digital capabilities for SME-scale manufacturers.
Gültepe also urged buyers to move beyond short-term cost-based sourcing. “Public institutions must incentivise sustainability investments, while buyers should prioritise long-term, value-driven partnerships. Financial institutions and testing bodies must support this shift by aligning lending and standards with industry realities.”
Global leaders back Turkiye’s apparel transformation
International speakers echoed Gültepe’s call for change. Cem Altan, President of the International Apparel Federation (IAF), stated, “Türkiye’s apparel sector is undergoing a deep transformation aligned with EU Green Deal objectives. This event signals a new era of sustainable, value-driven growth.”
Mario Jorge Machado, President of the European Apparel and Textile Confederation (EURATEX), called for urgent action. “Global trade is facing fragmentation. The EU and Turkiye can show the world a model of strategic resilience and sustainable innovation. We urge a swift start to Customs Union modernisation.”
Steve Lamar, President and CEO of the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA), underscored Türkiye’s strategic value: “Turkiye combines strong craftsmanship, quality, market proximity, and existing US brand partnerships. With the right approach, it can be a vital partner in the reshaping of global supply chains.”
A major step in Mango's commitment to sustainable fashion, this partnership aligns with the brand’s long-term goal of transitioning to a circular model and reducing its environmental footprint. The brand is dedicated to shifting a substantial portion of its man-made cellulosic fiber (MMCF) use to fibers made with Circulose
A groundbreaking regenerated material crafted from 100 per cent discarded textiles, Circulose empowers fashion brands to lessen their reliance on new, virgin fibers while still upholding high standards of quality and design.
Mango’s strong commitment takes the company one step closer to restarting its factory and set a powerful example for the industry, says Jonatan Janmark, CEO, Circulose. It also inspires other brands to follow their lead, he adds.
Andrés Fernández, Sustainability and Sourcing Director, Mango, adds, this collaboration marks a significant step in the brand’s sustainability roadmap as it strives to exclusively use fibers with lower environmental impact by 2030, reflecting its commitment to foster a more circular and responsible fashion ecosystem where innovation and environmental stewardship go hand in hand.
This partnership is built on Circulose's enhanced commercial strategy, which emphasizes forging closer brand collaborations, introducing an innovative pricing model, and offering expanded support services.
Developed in collaboration with Fashion for Good and Canopy, the new licensing model for Circulose is designed to reduce pricing hurdles and drive widespread adoption, moving beyond limited capsule collections to large-scale use of next-gen materials. The license also includes services like transition planning, supply chain orchestration, and traceability to support large-scale implementation.
A Swedish sustain-tech company, Circulose developed a patented process to recycle cellulosic textile waste. Formerly known as Renewcell, the company has been recognized by Fast Company as one of the ‘World’s Most Innovative Companies’ and by TIME Magazine for its ‘100 Best Inventions.’
Plus-size clothing retailer Torrid aims to slash its retail footprint by 30 per cent by closing around 180 stores in order to adapt to declining sales, particularly within shopping malls.
A specialist in sizes 10-30 for women, Torrid currently operates over 630 stores, with approximately 65 per cent located in malls.
A key factor in this strategic shift is the changing consumer landscape: current estimates indicate that up to 70 per cent of Torrid's new demand originates from online shoppers. This growing preference for e-commerce makes traditional mall-based operations less lucrative for the brand. Compounding this, around 60 per cent of Torrid's store leases are nearing renewal, providing an opportune moment for the company to reassess its physical presence.
Despite the significant closures, Lisa Harper, CEO, maintains, the brand is in a ‘strong financial position.’ The company plans to refresh about 135 existing brick-and-mortar stores to enhance the shopping experience for remaining in-person customers. This move signals a clear pivot towards a more digitally-led business model for Torrid.
Bangladesh's garment industry witnessed a notable rise in shipments to non-traditional markets during the July-May’24-25 period.
As per data released by the Export Promotion Bureau and compiled by the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), the nation’s garment exports to these emerging destinations increased by 6.79 per cent Y-o-Y to $6.04 billion during the mentioned period.
However, the country did not register a rise in exports to all non-traditional markets. On the contrary, shipments to Russia, South Korea, the United Arab Emirates, and Malaysia declined during this period.
A powerhouse for Bangladesh’s RMG exports, the European Union commanded nearly 49.91 per cent of all shipments, totaling a value of 18.25 billion. The United States remains a strong second, with exports rising by 19.23 per cent to $7.03 billion. With exports of $1.20 billion and $4.04 billion respectively, Canada and the UK also made significant contributions.
On a Y-o-Y basis, RMG exports to the EU rose by 10.46 per cent, the US by 15.97 per cent, and Canada by 14.14 per cent. The UK saw more modest growth at 3.96 per cent. Within the EU, Germany emerged as the top export destination, receiving $4.58 billion in shipments, following by Spain and France with shipments worth $3.16 billion and $2.00 billion respectively.
On the product front, the knitwear segment showed robust growth of 10.98 per cent growth, while exports of woven garments also increased by 9.30 per cent. Overall, Bangladesh’s cumulative RMG exports increased by 10.20 per cent Y-o-Y to $36.56 billion during the July-May period.
Non-traditional markets encompass all destinations outside of the long-standing major buyers: the European Union, the United States, Canada, and the United Kingdom. Within this diverse group, exports to India grew by 17.35 per cent, followed by Turkey at 31.75 per cent, and Japan at 10.32 per cent.
Continuing their strong double-digit growth, India’s apparel exports rose by 11.3 per cent Y-o-Y in May 2025, as per data by the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI). This rise comes as Western buyers increasingly turn to India as a reliable alternative to Bangladesh and China for apparel sourcing.
Export momentum picked up significantly due to political instability in Bangladesh following the ouster of the Sheikh Hasina government last August. Exports increased by 17.3 per cent in September to rise further by by 24.35 per cent in October.
Many buyers from developed countries are urging Indian suppliers to expand capacity and obtain key certifications, especially as India gains a duty advantage over China thanks to reciprocal tariffs imposed by the Trump administration.
This export boom offers much-needed relief to India’s apparel sector, which struggled through two years of weak demand after the pandemic.
India’s apparel exports declined post-COVID. Exports stagnated for about two years as consumers purchased fewer new clothes after the excessive buying during the pandemic, says Sanjay K Jain, Chairman, National Textile Committee, Indian Chamber of Commerce.
Green shoots of recovery began appearing after Bangladesh’s political upheaval, as buyers sought stability in their supply chains. Unlike India, Bangladesh’s apparel manufacturers have massive capacity to handle large orders quickly - something Indian exporters are now working to match.
Industry leaders believe India’s export growth will continue, thanks to the tariff advantage over China. There’s a huge opportunity for Indian apparel exporters. The $120 billion US market is the biggest prize. What we need is access to raw materials at competitive prices, adds Jain.
India currently holds a $10 billion share of the US market, compared to China’s $30 billion.
Meanwhile, as apparel exports accelerate, India’s raw cotton imports are also rising, with domestic cotton prices higher than global rates. According to the Cotton Association of India, cotton imports are projected to exceed 3.3 million bales (170 kg each) in 2024-25 — more than double last year’s 1.52 million bales.
Vancouver-based athleisure giant Lululemon has confirmed significant job cuts, impacting approximately 150 corporate employees at its Store Support Centers (SSCs). This decision is due to an evolving organizational structure, the company stated.
Reaffirming its commitment to supporting employees through this transition, Lululemon stated, these changes are part of a regular assessment of business operations to ensure future positioning. Through this move, the brand aims to operate with greater agility and further invest in growth, it added.
This restructuring comes amidst past concerns, including analysts' caution last spring regarding stagnant growth in the North American market. Additionally, in May 2024, Canada's Competition Bureau launched an investigation into Lululemon over ‘greenwashing’ allegations, concerning misleading environmental claims.
Despite these challenges, Lululemon was recently recognized as one of Canada's best employers, ranking 15th on Forbes' annual list earlier this year.
The fate of our old clothes is often shrouded in misconception. A widely held belief suggests that most donated garments are unceremoniously dumped in landfills, adding to the mounting environmental crisis. However, a new white paper titled “Beyond the Landfill Myth: Mapping the True Journey of Secondhand Clothing” by Bank&Vogue ltd/LTÉE reveals a more optimistic picture. Rather than ending their lifecycle in waste, a significant portion of secondhand clothing embarks on a global journey of reuse, resale, and recycling, contributing meaningfully to environmental sustainability and economic resilience.
This new narrative is not just about salvaging textiles; it’s about rethinking our relationship with fashion consumption, and recognizing the complex global networks that give our old clothes new life.
Global flows and destinations, mapping the trade
The trade of secondhand clothing operates through an extensive, transcontinental web of exchange. According to data from UN Comtrade, the US, Canada, Germany, and the UK are the world’s largest exporters of used garments. On the receiving end, countries such as Pakistan, Ghana, Kenya, Chile, and India serve as significant importers.
Once these clothes reach their destination, local businesses spring into action. Garments are meticulously sorted—items in good condition are sold in bustling resale markets, while damaged pieces are repurposed as industrial wiping cloths, mattress stuffing, or raw materials for textile recycling. In regions like East Africa, the influence is profound: the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya estimates that 60-80 per cent of the population wears secondhand clothing. The Global Fashion Agenda’s 2023 report, supports this trend, revealing around 73 per cent of globally collected secondhand clothes are either reused or recycled, decisively challenging the widespread belief that they are simply discarded.
Secondhand economies in action
Several countries stand out for their innovative and effective integration of secondhand clothing into local economic and environmental systems.
Kantamanto Market, Accra, Ghana
A cornerstone of West Africa’s used clothing industry, Kantamanto Market employs over 30,000 people. Every week, millions of garments are sorted, sold, or transformed, creating not only employment but also a strong mechanism for textile reuse. The OR Foundation, working within this ecosystem, supports tailors and creatives who specialize in upcycling otherwise unsellable textiles.
Iquique Free Trade Zone, Chile
In Chile, over 59,000 tons of used clothing are imported each year much of it via the Iquique Free Trade Zone. While the Atacama Desert has gained notoriety as a dumping ground, the broader narrative reveals substantial efforts to create value from waste. Local businesses redistribute clothing across Latin America and explore recycling innovations to mitigate environmental impacts.
Panipat, India
Known globally for its wool recycling industry, Panipat is a beacon of circular manufacturing. Used textiles from the West are shredded and re-spun into yarn, which is then used to make affordable blankets and garments. These products not only serve domestic needs but are also exported, highlighting how secondhand materials can be reincorporated into the global supply chain with economic and environmental benefits.
Measuring the gains
The secondhand clothing trade is more than just a charitable gesture—it delivers measurable benefits to both people and the planet.
Waste reduction
The UK-based WRAP (Waste and Resources Action Programme) reports that extending the life of a garment by just nine months can slash its carbon, water, and waste footprints by 20–30 per cent. This clearly illustrates how reuse can be a powerful tool in addressing fashion’s environmental toll.
Employment generation
From sorters in India to transport workers in Canada, the secondhand economy supports a vast and diverse workforce. Millions of livelihoods depend on this trade—especially in developing countries where resale markets and upcycling initiatives are often community cornerstones.
Circular economy integration
Entities such as SMART (Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association) and EuRIC (European Recycling Industries’ Confederation) advocate secondhand clothing as a key pillar of circular economic models. Their research underscores that reuse has the lowest environmental impact of all post-consumer textile pathways, beating even recycling in sustainability metrics.
What lies ahead
Despite numerous advantages, the secondhand clothing ecosystem is not without challenges. Overconsumption in the West continues to generate excessive volumes of discarded garments, many of which cannot be absorbed efficiently by recipient markets. Infrastructure gaps in local recycling and upcycling capacities further compound the issue. Also, political resistance—such as proposed import bans in parts of East Africa—threatens to disrupt the trade’s economic and environmental benefits.
To address these concerns, the white paper recommends:
• Improved sorting systems: Ensuring that only usable clothing is shipped can reduce waste and improve efficiency.
• Investment in infrastructure: Local governments and international stakeholders must collaborate to build upcycling and recycling facilities.
• Awareness and education: By informing both consumers and policymakers of the real lifecycle of garments, we can shift mindsets away from disposal toward sustainability
Rethinking fashion’s afterlife
The journey of a secondhand garment is far from a straight path to the dump. It is a story of transformation—of economic opportunity, environmental stewardship, and global interconnectedness. As the white paper argues, rather than vilify the trade in used clothing or underestimate its impact, we must embrace it as a critical component of a more circular and sustainable fashion future.
Optimizing the secondhand system—through smarter donations, better infrastructure, and informed policy—offers a tangible way to reduce fashion waste, empower communities, and mitigate climate change. Your old T-shirt isn’t just a relic of past trends; it’s a building block for a more sustainable world.
HGH India, the country’s leading trade show for home textiles, décor, furniture, houseware, and gifts, has released its much-awaited Trend Report for 2025-26, themed ‘Emotion in Motion’. This flagship report reflects the company’s authoritative role in trend forecasting and design research for the Indian home and lifestyle sector.
The report has been curated through extensive research and cultural decoding to track the evolution of Indian consumer behaviour and design sensibilities. It captures how shifting preferences driven by millennials, Gen Z, sustainability imperatives, and digital integration are shaping a new narrative around identity, space, and aesthetic values within homes.
Segmented into four trend directions Future Fizz, Majestic Lagoon, Burgundy Bloom, and Chai & Biscuits the report blends Indian tradition, global design language, and contemporary attitudes. Each theme represents a fusion of colour palettes, materials, styles, and emotional cues relevant to today’s consumers.
Rajiv Merchant, CEO of Texzone Information Services Pvt Ltd, the organiser of HGH India, stated, “At HGH India, we see trend forecasting not just as aesthetic storytelling, but as strategic direction. Our Trend Report empowers brands, designers, retailers, and professionals to create offerings that reflect how India lives today and where it is heading.”
The Trend Report serves as a critical tool for manufacturers aligning product development with emerging visual and lifestyle cues, retailers planning relevant stock, and designers seeking inspiration for spatial narratives. Even end consumers more informed and aspirational than ever can find reflection and resonance in these themes.
At HGH India 2025, the Trends Pavilion will translate these forecasts into tangible product displays, visual merchandising concepts, and experiential zones, offering an immersive, sensory understanding of the themes projected to dominate the Indian home landscape.
HGH India continues to solidify its reputation as a key platform for home fashion intelligence with a unified, forward-looking vision tailored to industry needs and consumer aspirations.
