FW
In the current 2024-25 cotton season, up to March 31, 2025, the Government of India has successfully purchased 52.5 million quintals of seed cotton, equivalent to 10 million bales at Minimum Support Price (MSP). Executed through its primary agency, the Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) under the Ministry of Textiles, this procurement represents 38 per cent of the total cotton arrivals of 26.3 million bales and 34 per cent of the estimated total cotton production of 29.425 million bales in the country.
Among the states, Telangana has recorded the highest procurement at 4 million bales, followed by Maharashtra with 3 million bales and Gujarat with 1.4 million bales. Other states with significant procurement include Karnataka (500,000 bales), Madhya Pradesh (400,000 bales), Andhra Pradesh (400,000 bales), and Odisha (200,000 bales). Procurement in Haryana, Rajasthan, and Punjab totals 115,000 bales. In total, Rs 374.5 billion (approximately $4.5 billion USD) has been paid to roughly 2.1 million cotton farmers across all cotton-producing states.
The MSP system continues to provide profitable prices to cotton farmers, protecting them from forced sales when market prices drop below the MSP. To facilitate efficient procurement, CCI has established 508 procurement centers nationwide. Several digital initiatives have been implemented, including on-site Aadhaar (Indian identification number) authentication, SMS notifications for payments, and 100 per cent direct payments through the National Automated Clearing House (NACH).
Available in nine regional languages, the Cott-Ally mobile app allows farmers to access real-time information on MSP rates, procurement centers, and payment tracking. Furthermore, all cotton bales produced by CCI are traceable via QR codes using blockchain technology to ensure transparency and accountability.
The Government of India remains committed to safeguarding the interests of cotton farmers through a fair, transparent, and efficient procurement process.
Ironing and pressing machines will take centre stage at the Garment Tech Istanbul Exhibition 2025, drawing attention with their advanced features and cutting-edge designs. Set to run from June 25 to 28 at the Istanbul Expo Center (IFM), the event will bring together all major technologies used in garment and ready-to-wear production. From sewing and embroidery to packaging and finishing systems, the exhibition promises a comprehensive showcase.
Leading brands like Malkan Makina, Alba, Silter, and LGM Group will exhibit a wide array of equipment, including interlining bonding machines, transfer and stone printing machines, and modern ironing benches. Energy-saving ironing systems, high-pressure steam presses, touch-screen programmable units, and robotic automatic stations will be among the standout innovations on display.
Turkey, known for its strong textile and apparel industry, has emerged as a global hub for manufacturing industrial ironing and pressing systems. Local producers offer products ranging from dry cleaning machines and steam boilers to ironing boards and automatic presses, catering to sectors like hospitality, healthcare, and garment production. These machines are exported across Europe, the Middle East, North Africa, Central Asia, and Russia.
The exhibition is expected to attract global buyers and industry professionals, offering domestic producers a key platform to expand into new markets and form strategic partnerships. With a strong focus on R&D and innovation, exhibitors will unveil environmentally friendly, anti-limescale, and fabric-sensitive models that enhance efficiency and reduce energy consumption. Garment Tech Istanbul 2025 promises to be a vital hub for discovering next-generation technologies shaping the future of garment production.
The US textile recycling and resale industry is reeling from the steep tariffs imposed on imported textile scraps and used clothing, as per data compiled by Karishma Gupta, Founder & CEO of Eslando, a textile recycling feedstock marketplace. The tariffs, that is almost as high as 40 per cent on goods from exporters like India, China, Bangladesh, and Pakistan, threaten to disrupt the nation's robust circular textile economy and drive up consumer prices.
While the apparel sector has seen prominent stock market fluctuations, with giants like Nike, adidas, and Puma experiencing declines of approximately 15 per cent, the impact on the recycling sector is proving to be a critical concern.
US a key player in global textile recycling
The US holds an important position in the global textile recycling landscape, acting as the world's largest importer of used clothing and the second-largest importer of textile scraps. This reliance on international suppliers has historically allowed the US to maintain a cost-effective and efficient infrastructure for sorting, processing, and repurposing textile waste.
However, the newly implemented tariffs are poised to disrupt these established trade relationships, significantly increasing costs for domestic recyclers, sustainable manufacturers, and second-hand retailers.
Table: Textile scrap imports to the US (2023)
|
Exporting country |
Value of exports to US ($) |
|
Pakistan |
$23.8 million |
|
Honduras |
$15.9 million |
|
Canada |
$9.49 million |
|
Mexico |
$7.68 million |
|
India |
$6.55 million |
|
Bangladesh |
$6.27 million |
|
China |
$5.65 million |
|
Dominican Republic |
$4.08 million |
|
Source: Observatory of Economic Complexity (OEC) |
The data compiled by Gupta, sourced from the Observatory of Economic Complexity (OEC), the US imported substantial volumes of textile scraps and used clothing in 2023.
Table: Used clothing imports to the US (2023)
|
Exporting country |
Value of Exports to US ($) |
|
China |
$8.82 billion |
|
India |
$2.69 billion |
|
Pakistan |
$1.5 billion |
|
Mexico |
$1.27 billion |
|
Bangladesh |
$208 million |
|
Canada |
$136 million |
|
Dominican Republic |
$110 million |
|
Source: Observatory of Economic Complexity (OEC) |
The above data clearly illustrates the US’ dependence on imports,” says Gupta. “With nearly $17 billion worth of used clothing imported in 2023 alone, the impact of these tariffs will be felt across the entire supply chain.”
Table: Global import leaders (2023)
|
Country |
Textile scrap imports |
Used clothing imports |
|
India |
$229 million |
$624 million |
|
United States |
$86 million |
$16.9 billion |
|
Germany |
— |
$4.54 billion |
|
Japan |
$21.1 million |
$3.98 billion |
|
France |
— |
$3.21 billion |
|
United Kingdom |
— |
$2.71 billion |
|
Source: OEC |
Sustainability and affordability at risk
Analysts, including Gupta, warn the increased costs will likely lead to higher prices for recycled materials and second-hand clothing, impacting both manufacturers and consumers. This could undermine sustainability efforts and threaten the viability of small-scale recyclers and non-profit thrift organizations.
In an attempt to mitigate the impact of the tariffs, US importers are exploring alternative trade partnerships with nations such as Honduras, Mexico, the Dominican Republic, and the United Arab Emirates. However, concerns remain about the capacity of these countries to fully replace the supply from traditional partners.
Outlook a critical juncture
The future of the US textile recycling industry hangs in the balance. Without strategic interventions, the tariffs could lead to increased costs for recycled materials; higher consumer prices for second-hand clothing; threats to small-scale recyclers and non-profit thrift stores; setbacks in achieving US sustainability goals. “This is a complex issue with far-reaching implications,” Gupta explained. “We need to consider policy solutions that support domestic recycling, provide subsidies, and establish preferential trade agreements to alleviate the pressure on this vital industry.” The coming months will be crucial in determining whether the US textile recycling industry can adapt and thrive, or if it will face significant disruption.
The Trump administration’s announcement on April 2 of steep tariffs on US imports from garment-producing countries including Cambodia, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Lesotho, and Vietnam has sparked concerns about the potential impact on garment workers. The Clean Clothes Campaign (CCC) has urged US and global brands to absorb the financial burden themselves rather than shifting it onto the most vulnerable in the supply chain low-paid workers.
Many of these workers already survive on below-subsistence wages, with little to no savings. Any attempt to mitigate tariff costs by cutting wages, slashing product prices, increasing unpaid overtime, or relocating production could push workers deeper into debt and food insecurity.
The industry’s key players - Nike (2024 revenue $51.4 billion), Gap ($15.1 billion), PVH/Calvin Klein ($8.7 billion), Levi’s ($6.4 billion), and Victoria’s Secret ($6.2 billion) along with major manufacturers like Sri Lanka’s Mas Holdings (valued at $800 million), are well-positioned to absorb added costs. However, reports suggest that brands like Gap, Walmart, and Levi’s have already begun pressuring suppliers to shoulder the tariff impact, exacerbating the strain on workers.
The CCC warns against repeating the mistakes seen during the Covid-19 crisis, when brands cut costs at the expense of millions of workers. In countries like Sri Lanka, where committees have been formed to negotiate with the US, the absence of union representation is alarming. Worker unions must have a seat at the table, the CCC argues, to ensure their voices are heard in policy discussions and crisis responses.
Facing substantial new tariffs imposed by the United States, Sri Lanka is urgently requesting India to significantly expand its apparel export quota under their existing Indo-Lanka Free Trade Agreement. Vjitha Herath, Foreign Minister, Sri Lanka, announced the country is seeking an increase to 50 million units, a considerable rise from the current 8 million.
The Sri Lankan government has also asked India to boost the quota's value by $500 million, arguing that the 25-year-old agreement no longer reflects the current market size.
These appeals follow the US, under a formula reportedly linked to President Donald Trump and based on the trade deficit with Sri Lanka, levying a 44 per cent tax on the island nation. The US claims this accounts for Sri Lanka's tariff and non-tariff barriers. In comparison, India faces a 27 per cent tax under the same US calculation, providing it with a significant advantage in the US market. Several Sri Lankan firms also operate within India, exporting globally.
President Trump's trade policies are being criticized as an attempt to establish a ‘Sri Lanka style protectionist utopia,’ rooted in a mercantilist view of trade deficits. Critics note that the US formula excludes services imported from America, and the European Union is considering retaliatory measures on US services. Despite this, the US remains the world's second-largest exporter.
While Sri Lanka's direct import duties are capped at 20 per cent, the nation employs significant CESS and Port and Airport Development levies. These have been described as creating a complex and burdensome tax system, potentially favoring businesses with political connections from the previous Rajapaksa administration, affecting goods like dairy, shoes, building materials, and maize.
Sri Lanka's move towards protectionism began in November 2024 with new taxes implemented swiftly after foreign exchange shortages. The Office of the US Trade Representative had previously noted Sri Lanka's shift away from liberalization due to declining foreign reserves, aiming to protect domestic industries. They also pointed out that these levies, combined with tariffs, pushed import charges on most finished goods above 48 per cent, leading to complaints from US exporters.
Economists and business leaders are now cautioning President Trump that his sudden tariff plan could lead to similar negative consequences experienced by Sri Lanka.
Luxury conglomerate LVMH has announced new appointments at two of its major fashion brands. The luxury fashion house has named Ramon Ros as the new CEO for Fendi, while Charlotte Coupé has been named as CEO, Kenzo. Both these executives will move from their current leadership positions at LVMH's flagship brand, Louis Vuitton, and report to Sidney Toledano, Senior Advisor - Bernard Arnault, Chairman, LVMH.
Ros's appointment at Fendi, effective July 1, follows Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou's brief tenure, who will now become the deputy CEO of Christian Dior Couture on April 15.
LVMH highlighted Ros's successful track record in developing Louis Vuitton's desirability and building strong local teams in Mainland China. His expertise in luxury retail and collaborative leadership are expected to elevate Fendi, preserving its heritage and craftsmanship. Ros previously held senior roles at Marks & Spencer, Diesel, and Tous before joining LVMH in 2013, where he managed Givenchy's business in China and internationally before his time at Louis Vuitton.
Coupé will assume her role at Kenzo on May 1, succeeding Sylvain Blanc, who is departing the group for new ventures after initiating a new phase for the brand. LVMH anticipates Coupé will leverage her extensive fashion experience to further enhance Kenzo's appeal and continue its modernization. Her background includes significant contributions to the growth of Louis Vuitton's men's ready-to-wear division and prior roles at Ralph Lauren and Lacoste.
In a separate leadership change within LVMH, Daniel DiCiccio has been appointed President and CEO, Louis Vuitton - Mainland China, effective April 28. Based in Shanghai, he will report to David Ponzo, Chief Commercial Officer, Louis Vuitton. Having an extensive experience in international retail and merchandizing, including 12 years in Asia, DiCiccio most recently led the Global Retail division at Apple. LVMH emphasizes his expertise in Asian markets and talent development as key to Louis Vuitton's continued growth in China. He has also held several leadership positions at Sony Music and Coach.
India's cotton production is projected to hit a 16-year low at just over 29.4 million bales (each 375 pounds) in MY 2024-25. This marks a significant decline from the peak of 39.8 million bales in 2013-14
The earlier boom in cotton production, which nearly tripled after the introduction of genetically modified (GM) Bt cotton hybrids in 2002-03, also led to a massive rise in exports. However, in recent years, exports have fallen, and India is now expected to import more cotton (3 million bales) than it exports (1.7 million bales) this year.
The primary culprit for this production slump and India's shift to a net importer is the pink bollworm (PBW). This pest's larvae burrow into cotton bolls, feeding on the developing seeds and lint, is causing significant loss in cotton yield and discoloration.
While the currently grown GM cotton hybrids contain two Bt genes offering protection against other bollworms, the PBW, being a monophagous pest (feeding solely on cotton), has developed resistance to these toxins. Its short life cycle has accelerated this resistance buildup. Research indicates PBW resistance to both key Bt toxins emerged by 2014. The pest has since crossed economic damage thresholds across all major cotton-growing regions of India. Consequently, India's average cotton lint yield per hectare has sharply declined from its 2013-14 peak.
However, Indian seed companies are developing new GM cotton hybrids with different Bt genes that they claim will resist the PBW. Several companies are currently undergoing confined field trials for their new technologies, seeking regulatory approvals.
Despite these efforts, the lengthy regulatory process and opposition to GM crops have hindered the commercialization of new GM varieties in India since 2006. The seed industry hopes the severe impact of the PBW and the resulting cotton crisis will prompt the Indian government to adopt a more favorable stance towards new GM cotton hybrids, especially as cotton is not a food crop. The recent announcement of a ‘Mission for Cotton Productivity’ in the Union Budget 2025-26 signals a potential move towards supporting technological advancements in the sector to ensure a stable supply of quality cotton for India's textile industry.
China’s government is reportedly urging fast-fashion giant Shein to slow down its plans to move production out of the country, as Beijing looks to contain a growing wave of manufacturing relocations triggered by mounting US trade tensions. The Ministry of Commerce has asked Shein and other major exporters to reconsider expanding supply chains outside China, especially in the wake of fresh tariff threats by former US President Donald Trump.
In response to the government’s intervention, Shein has suspended supplier scouting trips to Vietnam and other Southeast Asian countries, halting efforts to diversify its production base. The company had been exploring low-cost manufacturing alternatives in the region amid rising labor costs and regulatory scrutiny in China. However, Beijing’s request signals its growing concern over potential job losses and economic strain if more exporters seek to shift operations abroad.
The move also comes as Trump vows to implement sweeping ‘reciprocal tariffs’ on imports if re-elected, escalating trade uncertainties that already prompted several Chinese manufacturers to explore alternative hubs like India, Bangladesh, and Indonesia. Beijing’s appeal to Shein underscores the tension between national industrial policy goals and exporters under pressure to manage rising costs and navigate global trade risks.
While Shein has yet to comment publicly, analysts say China’s stance reflects a broader strategy to preserve its manufacturing dominance and employment levels, even as it faces growing competition from neighboring low-cost economies and shifting global trade dynamics.
The recent announcement of tariffs on garments exports from Bangladesh has led to US buyers halting orders, compelling the Dhaka government to request for a three-month reprieve from these tariffs.
The rise of tariffs on cotton products from Bangladesh to 37 per cent from the earlier 16 per cent has hit the textile and garment industry hard as around 80 per cent of its exports are generated from this sector. The industry had just begun rebuilding itself after being hit hard in a student-led revolution that toppled the government last year.
Muhammad Yunus, Leader, Interim Government, has urged the US to postpone the application of US reciprocal tariff measures for three months to help the government substantially increase US exports to Bangladesh.
UK’s fashion apparel retail is marked by the dynamic interplay between physical stores and e-commerce. While the digital space experienced an increase, particularly during pandemic lockdowns, the enduring appeal of in-store experiences remains a significant factor.
E-commerce growth and stabilization
The pandemic undeniably increased the spread of online shopping, with a notable rise in online apparel sales. The convenience and accessibility of e-commerce has strengthened its place in the retail sector. However, a significant shift is indicated by Next CEO Simon Wolfson, who says, the fact that they’ve returned to opening new stores, even in a modest way, reflects their belief that the biggest shift to online is behind us. This signals a potential stabilization in the rapid online growth seen in recent years. The British Retail Consortium stats show, the proportion of non-food purchases made online rose to 36.4 per cent in February 2025, up from 35.8 per cent the previous year. This reveals that online sales are still growing, but the rate of growth is slowing.
The resilience of physical stores
Despite the e-commerce boom, physical stores continue to hold significant value for consumers, particularly in the fashion apparel sector. Factors such as the ability to touch and feel products, try on clothing, and enjoy the social aspect of shopping contribute to the enduring appeal of brick-and-mortar stores. In fact, a Just Style study revealed that UK consumers still hold a strong preference for in person shopping when it comes to fashion. It noted that the key to success is in a seamless omnichannel strategy that integrates digital convenience with in-store shopping, ensuring customers get similar experience across all touchpoints.
Retailers like Marks & Spencer and Primark highlight the continued strength of physical store sales, with a significant portion of their customers preferring in-store shopping. And Next's decision to increase its physical retail space for the first time in over five years, planning a 0.4 per cent increase in its UK retail footprint by January 2026, reinforces this trend. This includes opening 10 new stores, relocating six existing ones, and converting two homeware stores into fashion outlets.
The most successful retailers are adopting an omnichannel approach, seamlessly integrating their online and offline presence. This involves offering services such as click-and-collect, in-store returns for online purchases, and utilizing digital technology within physical stores. This provides consumers with flexibility and convenience, catering to their diverse shopping preferences. The use of physical stores as distribution hubs, for click and collect, and for returns, is also becoming increasingly important for retailers. The blending of digital technology into the physical store experience, such as digital displays, and virtual fitting rooms, is also becoming more common.
Thus while e-commerce has seen significant growth, it's unlikely that physical stores will disappear. The future of fashion apparel retail lies in an omnichannel approach that caters to the diverse needs of consumers. Retailers who seamlessly integrate their online and offline presence will be best positioned for success.
