The European Union's appetite for T-shirts remains robust, with consumption expected to grow steadily over the next decade, albeit at a moderate pace. However, the market is witnessing a significant shift, with imports playing an increasingly dominant role as domestic production falters. A recent market analysis reveals, the EU's T-shirt consumption is projected to reach 3 billion units by 2035, growing at a CAGR of over 0.6 per cent from 2024. While this signals continued demand, the growth rate indicates a deceleration compared to the past.
T-shirt consumption trends
In 2024, the EU consumed approximately 2.8 billion tees, much like the previous year. From 2013 to 2024, consumption volume increased at an average annual rate of over 2.1 per cent, demonstrating a relatively stable trend with some fluctuations. The market peaked at 3.2 billion units in 2022, before experiencing a slight dip in the following years.
Table: T-shirt consumption
Year |
Consumption volume (bn units) |
2013 |
2.2 |
2014 |
2.3 |
2015 |
2.4 |
2016 |
2.5 |
2017 |
2.6 |
2018 |
2.7 |
2019 |
2.8 |
2020 |
2.9 |
2021 |
3.1 |
2022 |
3.2 |
2023 |
2.8 |
2024 |
2.8 |
In value terms, the EU's T-shirt market reached $9.3 billion in 2024, a slight decrease from the previous year. Despite this, the overall consumption trend has remained relatively flat, with a peak of $11.3 billion reached in previous years. Germany, France, and Spain remain the largest consumers, accounting for 46 per cent of total EU consumption in 2024. Germany alone consumed 609 million units, followed by France (361 million) and Spain (335 million). Notably, Poland has seen the most significant growth in consumption, with a CAGR of +9.0 per cent from 2013 to 2024.
Imports grow as domestic production dips
While consumption remains steady, the EU's domestic T-shirt production has witnessed a sharp decline. In 2024, production fell to 281 million units, a 19.7 per cent drop from the previous year. This downward trend has been consistent since 2014, when production peaked at 594 million units.
To meet demand, the EU relies heavily on imports. In 2024, T-shirt imports reached 4.3 billion units, despite a -9.9 per cent decrease from the previous year. Over the period from 2013 to 2024, imports increased at an average annual rate of over 2.2 per cent, highlighting the growing dependence on foreign suppliers.
Table: T-shirt imports
Year |
Import volume (bn units) |
2013 |
3.4 |
2014 |
3.5 |
2015 |
3.6 |
2016 |
3.7 |
2017 |
3.8 |
2018 |
4 |
2019 |
4.2 |
2020 |
4.4 |
2021 |
4.9 |
2022 |
5.3 |
2023 |
4.8 |
2024 |
4.3 |
Germany, Spain, and France are the largest importers, collectively accounting for 72 per cent of total EU imports. Specifically, Germany imported 879 million units. Spain 608 million units, France 462 million units, Netherlands 405 million units, Italy 366 million units and Poland 362 million units. In fact, Poland has shown the highest growth rate, with a CAGR of over 10.0 per cent from 2013 to 2024.
The Asian share
A significant portion of the EU's T-shirt imports originates from Asia. While precise, publicly available breakdowns for all Asian countries are limited, it's widely acknowledged that China, Bangladesh, India, and Vietnam are key suppliers. Based on general trade data and industry reports, it can be estimated that:
China: Remains a major supplier, though its share may be gradually shifting due to rising labor costs and diversification of sourcing.
Bangladesh: Is a prominent player, known for its large-scale garment manufacturing and competitive pricing.
India: Contributes significantly, with a growing focus on value-added products and sustainable practices.
Vietnam: Is an increasingly important source, benefiting from trade agreements and expanding production capacity.
Rest of Asia: other Southeast Asian nations contribute a growing percentage of the imports.
Estimating Asia’s share
It is estimated that the Asian region accounts for over 60% of the EU's total t-shirt imports. This highlights the EU's reliance on Asian manufacturing for its apparel needs.
Cotton tees dominate the import market, making up 82 per cent of total imports in 2024. This segment has also seen the fastest growth, at a CAGR of over 2.7 per cent from 2013 to 2024. The average import price of a T-shirt in the EU was $4.1 per unit in 2024, down -5.6 per cent from previous year. Prices vary significantly by product type and country of origin.
Dichotomy of EU’s T-shirt consumption
There is apparent dichotomy between EU’s T-shirt consumption and import volumes, where imports significantly exceed consumption. This is due to several factors. Re-exports is one reason. A substantial portion of imported T-shirts may not be intended for final consumption within the EU. Instead, they could be re-exported to countries outside the EU. The EU acts as a major trade hub, with goods flowing in and out. This means that import figures can be inflated by transit goods.
Large retailers and distributors within the EU often import large quantities of T-shirts to maintain inventory and ensure efficient distribution. These imports may not be immediately reflected in consumption figures, as they are stored in warehouses awaiting sale. Therefore, import numbers will reflect the amount of goods coming into the EU, where consumption numbers reflect what is sold to the end user.
Moreover, the modern apparel industry relies on complex global supply chains. T-shirts may be imported in bulk for various stages of processing, such as printing, labeling, or packaging, before being distributed to retailers. This can result in multiple import entries for the same products.
There can also be discrepancies between import and consumption data due to differences in data collection methods, reporting periods, and product categorization. Also, ‘consumption’ can be a hard figure to pin down, as it relies on many different data sources.
Also, retailers sometimes import more goods than they end up selling. This leads to overstocking, and these goods are still counted in import numbers, but have not been consumed. In essence, the higher import volumes don't necessarily mean that EU citizens are consuming more T-shirts than the consumption figures suggest. Rather, it reflects the EU's role in the global trade network, the complexities of modern supply chains, and potential statistical differences.
However, the data clearly indicates a changing EU T-shirt market. While consumption continues to rise, albeit at a slower pace, the decline in domestic production and the rise in imports, particularly from Asia, highlight the increasing globalization of the industry. Factors such as cost competitiveness, supply chain efficiencies, and evolving consumer preferences are likely driving these trends. The market is expected to continue growth, but its reliance on imports, heavily influenced by Asian suppliers, is set to increase, reshaping the industry landscape in the years to come.
Exposing supply chains and price discrepancies
TikTok is currently flooded with videos purportedly revealing the origins of popular US brands. One viral video, viewed nearly 10 million times, features a woman in a factory showcasing yoga pants, claiming they are made in the same facility as Lululemon's but available for a mere $5-$6 compared to the US retail price of around $100.
Similarly, other videos display Louis Vuitton-style bags being offered for $50, with the presenter claiming they originate from the same manufacturers as the luxury brand. These videos often highlight the supposed minimal difference between branded products and their cheaper, unbranded counterparts, suggesting that the primary cost driver is the brand label itself.
Luxury brands push back, counterfeiting concerns rise
Luxury brands have been quick to refute these claims. Louis Vuitton, for instance, has consistently stated that none of its products are manufactured in China. Lululemon clarified that only around 3 per cent of its finished goods are made in mainland China, providing a list of authorized suppliers on its website.
Experts like Conrad Quilty-Harper, author of "Dark Luxury," suggest that many of these TikTok videos are likely promoting counterfeit or "dupe" goods rather than genuine products. "They're trying to conflate fake manufacturers in China with the real ones," Quilty-Harper explained. "They're very clever with their social media, and they're very effective at driving demand in the West."
Despite denials and expert scepticism, the allure of significantly lower prices has resonated with many TikTok users. Comments on these videos range from disbelief to excitement about potentially bypassing hefty retail markups.
China's dual strategy
This increase in 'Trade War TikTok' activity coincides with two significant moves by China.
D2C e-commerce exports: Chinese manufacturers are leveraging platforms like TikTok, DHgate, and Taobao to sell directly to American consumers, cutting out US retailers. This strategy aims to circumvent the increased tariffs imposed by the US, which currently stand at 145 per cent on many Chinese goods. By offering prices significantly lower than US retail, even after accounting for potential import duties and shipping, Chinese sellers hope to gain a competitive edge. Apps like DHgate, known for selling Chinese "dupes" of luxury goods, have got a popularity boost in the US.
Attracting buyers to China: China has recently announced a significant boost to its tourism sector, seemingly aimed at enticing international shoppers, including Americans. Key elements of this strategy include extended visa-free stay. The duration of visa-free stays for tourists from several countries, including potentially the US in future expansions, has been increased. Moreover, as of April 8, 2025, a nationwide rollout of a revamped Value Added Tax (VAT) refund mechanism allows foreign tourists to receive refunds instantly at the point of sale at designated tax-free retailers, rather than waiting until departure. The minimum eligible purchase is yen 500 per shop per day. As Li Xuhong, Vice President and Professor at the Beijing National Accounting Institute points out, the nationwide implementation of the instant VAT refund would "elevate China's tourism service standards and foster a 'friendly, efficient and convenient' tourism environment."
The combined impact of 'Trade War TikTok' and China's tourism initiatives could be significant. It could lead to disruption of US retail as the D2C approach threatens traditional US retailers by offering consumers the possibility of purchasing similar goods at drastically lower prices. This could lead to lower sales and pressure on US companies to reduce prices or justify their higher costs. The TikTok videos are forcing greater scrutiny of the often-opaque supply chains of luxury brands. Consumers are questioning the significant price differences and the actual value added by branding and marketing.
It could lead to the growth of counterfeit market. While some offerings might be from the same factories producing for major brands, there is a significant risk of a rise in the counterfeit market, potentially harming both consumers and brand reputation.
The simplified VAT refund process and extended visa-free stays could incentivize more foreign tourists to visit China and spend on retail goods, boosting the Chinese economy.
Also, this strategy can be seen as a direct response to US trade policies, attempting to undermine tariffs and shift economic power. The use of a popular social media platform like TikTok adds a new dimension to international trade disputes.
Is it a strategic move by China?
Analysis of Chinese official statements and social media sentiment suggests while the timing coincides with ongoing trade friction, Chinese sources see this as a strategic initiative to boost its global economic influence and shift away from a purely export-oriented model.
Official statements from the Ministry of Commerce emphasize the development of cross-border e-commerce as a "new engine for foreign trade," highlighting its role in directly connecting domestic producers with international consumers and fostering new growth points. Articles in state-backed media like the Global Times portray the tourism initiatives as a move to showcase China's economic dynamism and cultural appeal, attracting high-spending foreign visitors and boosting domestic consumption.
On Chinese social media platforms like Weibo and Douyin, there is a narrative of Chinese manufacturing prowess and the perceived "unfair" pricing of Western brands. Many users express pride in the quality of Chinese-made goods and see the direct-to-consumer model as a way to reclaim value and challenge the dominance of established international brands. Some view the TikTok strategy as a clever way to leverage social media to bypass traditional trade barriers and directly influence consumer behavior in key markets like the US.
However, there are voices within China that express caution regarding the potential for reputational damage due to the association with counterfeit goods and the need for stricter quality control and intellectual property protection to ensure the long-term sustainability of this approach.
Meanwhile, experts warn the majority of goods being promoted through these D2C channels are likely counterfeit. While some factories might produce components or even pre-assemble items for luxury brands, the final, branded products undergo stringent quality checks and are distributed through authorized channels. Purchasing from unofficial sources carries the risk of receiving inferior quality goods or supporting illegal counterfeiting operations.
In a strategic move to mitigate the impact of the US’ recent 26 per cent reciprocal tariff, India is considering offering zero-duty imports across several sectors, including those under the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme, to expedite a crucial bilateral trade agreement (BTA). Officials familiar with the development indicate that this bold initiative aims to significantly boost bilateral trade, targeting a staggering $500 billion by 2030, while also addressing the immediate concerns arising from the US tariffs.
The Indian government's proposal, though generous, comes with stringent conditions, emphasizing rules of origin that mandate 30-40 per cent value addition and a change in tariff heading. These measures are designed to prevent the influx of third-country goods through the US, ensuring genuine value creation within the Indian manufacturing ecosystem. "Inter-ministerial consultations are actively exploring all potential avenues within the BTA, with a strong focus on the mutual benefits of zero-for-zero tariffs," revealed a source close to the discussions.
Textile and apparel sector, a key contributor
The textile and apparel sector, a significant component of the PLI scheme, is expected to play a crucial role in this trade realignment. With its inherent labor cost advantages, India is well-positioned to leverage zero-duty access to the US market. The sector's inclusion in the PLI scheme, with substantial financial outlays, has already boosted its manufacturing capabilities and competitiveness.
PLI scheme’s impact: The PLI scheme for textiles, with an approved outlay of Rs 10,683 crore, aims to enhance India's manufacturing capabilities in man-made fiber (MMF) apparel, MMF fabrics, and technical textiles. This initiative is expected to attract significant investments, boost production, and create numerous employment opportunities.
India-US textile trade: The US is a major importer of Indian textiles and apparel, with potential for substantial growth under favorable tariff conditions. According to India's Ministry of Textiles, The textiles & apparel contribut 12 per cent of India’s exports.
Competitive advantages: India's labor costs in the textile sector are significantly lower than those in the US and many other competing nations, providing a distinct competitive edge. India also has strong domestic raw material availability for cotton based textiles.
Potential impacts of zero-duty access
Most importantly it will increase export volumes to the US, leading to higher revenue and job creation. Also it will increase India’s competitiveness against other textile exporting nations. Investments into the Indian textile sector is expected to increase thereby boosting technological advancements and modernization. An increase in US investment inside the India’s textile market for finished goods can also be expected.
Meanwhile, the imposition of the 26 per cent reciprocal tariff by the US has raised concerns within the Indian export community. The proposed BTA and the offer of zero-duty imports are seen as critical steps to mitigate the impact of these tariffs and foster a more conducive trade environment.
BTA’s success hinges on the effective implementation of stringent rules of origin, ensuring genuine value addition within India. The Indian government must work closely with industry stakeholders to identify sectors where zero-duty access can be mutually beneficial. India must also focus on increasing the production of high quality textiles, as the US market favours them. It should pursue investing into more technical textiles, as that is a growing market.
Tiruppur's knitwear exports are projected to increase by 15 per cent in FY25-26. These exports had increased by 20 per cent to $4.8 billion in FY24-25.
KM Subramanian, President, Tiruppur Exporters' Association, states, knitwear exporters in Tiruppur are prioritizing green production by employing Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD). They are recycling 34.3 million gallons of water daily, with 96 per cent being reused.
The association generates 2,000 MW through wind turbines and 250 MW via solar power. It utilizes 350 MW for the industry, while the remainder is supplied to the Tamil Nadu Electricity Board. Mindful of climate change risks, the association has planted 2.2 million trees with a 90 per cent survival rate. These initiatives have been a key in attracting international buyers from various countries with the association receiving more orders from the US and European countries, he adds.
Furthermore, Subramanian notes, the association anticipates a 15 per cent growth in exports in the current fiscal year. The federal and state governments should also provide support. Tiruppur's infrastructure needs to be improved to align with export growth. It is essential to offer bank loans with straightforward processes, along with subsidies and incentives.
A Sakthivel, Vice-Chairman, Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC), remarks, knitwear exports from Tirupur grew by 20 per cent in FY 2024-25. This achievement underscores the sector's sustained momentum and the strong global demand for Indian knitwear and apparel. This growth in knitwear exports is a highly encouraging sign, and this momentum will continue, despite global uncertainties. The association hopes to sustain this upward trend in the years ahead, he adds.
Sakthivel states, maintaining its upward trajectory, India's ready-made garment (RMG) sector registering a 10 per cent growth in exports during FY 2024-25. Total RMG exports in 2024-25 stood at $16 billion, with 49 per cent of exports originating from the knit sector, marking a significant increase from the previous year.
S\ Vijayakumar, an exporter, says, on a growth path for over a year now, Tiruppur's knitwear sector has been receiving large orders in frequently. This benefits large companies the most with some of the major US brands now looking to India instead of China.
However, India receives orders only after its competitors like Bangladesh and Vietnam have full order books. This happens mainly due to the cost difference. Hence, India needs to control its raw material prices, he adds.
Spinners face multiple interrelated challenges while selecting and processing yarns for a specific fabric end‑use. Below are the key issues around yarn properties and suitability—and proven strategies to overcome them:
1. Inconsistent yarn fineness (Linear Density)
Challenge: Variations in yarn count (eg: Ne, Tex) lead to uneven fabric hand, weight, and appearance.
Mitigation strategies:
2. Yarn strength and tenacity
Challenge: Insufficient tensile strength causes breakages during weaving or knitting, harming productivity.
Mitigation strategies:
3. Hairiness and Fiber Fly
Challenge: Excessive hairiness leads to pilling, reduced fabric clarity, and machine dust accumulation.
Mitigation strategies:
4. Yarn imperfections (Thick/Thin Places, Neps)
Challenge: Thick and thin spots or neps show up as visible defects in fabric, impacting aesthetics.
Mitigation strategies:
5. Yarn hairiness vs. smoothness trade‑off
Challenge: While hairiness can create desirable “peach‑skin” effects, too much can ruin fabric drape and performance.
Mitigation strategies:
6. Twist variability and torque
Challenge: Inconsistent twist distribution can impart skew or torque in knit fabrics, causing garments to twist or skew on the body.
Mitigation strategies:
7. Special functionality integration
Challenge: Incorporating features—moisture‑wicking, anti‑microbial, flame‑resistance—often alters spinning behavior and yarn hand.
Mitigation strategies:
8. Cost vs performance optimization
Challenge: High‑performance fibers and processes can dramatically increase costs, squeezing margins.
Mitigation strategies:
By leveraging advanced monitoring, precise process control, and strategic material choices, spinners can optimize yarn properties for any desired fabric end‑use—ensuring consistency, functionality, and cost‑effectiveness across their product ranges.
The Tamil Nadu Spinning Mills Association (TASMA) has urged the Textile and Commerce Ministries to levy anti-dumping duties on the rising inexpensive viscose staple yarn (VSY) imports from China.
As per K. Venkatachalam, Chief Advisor, TASMA, the rise in imports of cheaper Chinese VSY into the domestic market due to the US-China trade dispute has severely impacted the textile mills in the southern region. This is negatively affecting textile businesses around the Karur, Dindigul, and Pallipalayam areas in Tamil Nadu, he notes.
The ongoing US-China tariff war has led to China dumping its viscose staple yarn (VSY) in India at a low price of Rs 175 per kg. The uncompetitive fiber price by the monopoly manufacturer of VSF has led to stabilization of VSY price at Rs 198 per kg, explains Venkatchalam. .
Domestic VSY manufacturers cannot lower the price of VSY below Rs 198, even if they were to sell it at their cost price. Importing cheap viscose fiber into the country is not possible due to existing quality control regulations. All domestic spinning mills producing VSY are reliant on the monopoly manufacturer, which has priced VSF higher than the prevailing global market rates, he adds.
A price difference of Rs 13 per kg (approximately $0.16 per kg) of yarn is not economically viable for domestic mills. Unless the government steps in immediately to curb these cheap imports, the domestic mills engaged in VSY production will face shutdowns, warns Venkatachalam.
Led by Marco Charles Mtunga, Director General, a delegation from the Tanzania Cotton Board recently visited the Karachi Cotton Association to promote their shared interests and explore more opportunities for exporting cotton from Tanzania.
During the meeting, KCA officials expressed concerns about the quality of cotton being imported from Tanzania and the packaging of the cotton bales. Furthermore, they pointed out to challenges related to tracking the origin and ensuring sustainable practices, which local importers faced when buying raw cotton from Tanzania.
Mtunga assured the KCA members of addressing these issues with the Tanzanian Government to resolve them in the best interest of Pakistani cotton importers.
He explained, Cotton production in Tanzania was mainly driven by small-scale farmers, with the Shinyanga and Mwanza regions being the largest cotton-growing areas. On average, the country cultivates cotton on about a 400,000 acre farm every year. However, the amount of cotton produced per acre is lower compared to the global average, Mtunga added.
Dependent mostly on rainfall, this cotton cultivation is affected by weather conditions, the prices farmers receive, and the availability of farming supplies, agricultural advice, and new technologies. Jahangir Moghul, Vice Chairman, KCA notes, after reaching a high of 14.26 million bales in 2004-05, Pakistan's cotton production gradually decreased each year. As a result, the local textile industry is forced to import raw cotton to meet its increasing needs.
The South Gujarat Unit of the Textile Association (India) is set to organize an insightful seminar on April 22, 2025, focusing on the export potential of Man Made Fibre (MMF) products. With global demand for MMF textiles rising, the event aims to highlight strategies for growth through sustainability, innovation and government support.
The seminar will feature three key sessions. These include a session titled, ‘Export Opportunities in MMF Products by Dr Gurudas Aras, Independent Director and Strategic Advisor; the second session titled, ‘Government Policies to Support MMF Fabric Exports by Ashish Gujarati, President, Pandesara Weavers Co-operative Society and Past President, SGCCI; and third session by Kailash Hakim, President, Federation of Surat Textile Traders Association. This session will be titled, ‘Viewpoint of Textile Traders on MMF Fabric Exports.
The seminar will be held at the Baghban Kratos Club in Pal, Surat.
From Rs 31, 154.19 crore in 2013-14, sales of ‘khadi’ (handspun and handwoven cloth) and village industry products rose by 447 per cent to Rs 170,551.37 crore (approximately $20.47 billion, based on current exchange rates) in FY2024-25, as per a report by the Ministry of Micro, Small andMedium Industries.
At the same time, MSME goods production increased by 347 per cent to Rs 116,599.75 crore (approximately $14.02 billion ) in the last fiscal year, up from Rs 26,109.07 crore (approximately $3.14 billion) in 2013-14. Similarly employment generation in the sector increased by 49.23 pr cent, as per the report.
Production of ‘khadi’ clothing specifically grew from Rs 811.08 crore (approximately $97.5 million ) in 2013-14 to Rs 3,783.36 crore (approximately $454.7 million) in 2024-25. Sales of these clothes increased from Rs 1,081.04 crore (approximately $130 million) in 2013-14 to Rs 7,145.61 crore (approximately $858.4 million) in the last financial year.
While in FY2013-14, the sector employed 13 million people, this rose to 19.4 million in 2024-25, marking an increase of 49.23 per cent, the report adds.
Held by the PHD Chamber of Commerce and Industry (PHDCCI), the conference titled, ‘The Future of Textiles: Challenges and Opportunities in Man-Made Fibers,’ at PHD House in New Delhi, addressed the evolving landscape and significant potential within the man-made fiber industry. The event brought together leading figures, policymakers, and key stakeholders from the industry
The conference commenced with a welcome address by Madhu Sudhan Bhageria, Chairperson, PHDCCI Textile Committee and CMD, Filatex India. He emphasized on the urgent need for a robust and sustainable fiber ecosystem, pointing out China's global dominance in polyester production and urging India to develop a unified and forward-thinking strategy to strengthen its MMF capabilities.
Ashok Malhotra, Mission Director, National Technical Textile Mission (NTTM), graced the event as the Guest of Honor and delivered the keynote address. He emphasized on the critical need for India to accelerate its growth in MMF, aiming for a substantial increase in market penetration to achieve global competitiveness. Malhotra also highlighted India's potential in technical textiles and the NTTM’s initiatives to promote domestic manufacturing and explore advanced applications, while acknowledging India’s growing strengths in niche export markets.
Sanjay Sharma, President & COO, BMD, shared key industry insights discussing the complexities of the current volatile, uncertain, complex, and ambiguous (VUCA) global market.
Rajeev Gupta, Joint Managing Director, RSWM, delivered a compelling address on the increasing global dominance of MMFs and emphasized India’s potential to significantly expand its MMF fiber base to meet ambitious export targets, underscoring the importance of aligning private sector innovation with government support programs.
Jitender Kumar Gupta, Head – TXD & Scientist – E, Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS), Government of India, highlighted the crucial role of standardization and Quality Control Orders (QCOs) in ensuring the quality and compliance of MMFs and yarns, emphasizing the significance of the BIS Standard Mark.
The conference also featured insightful presentations from other leading experts, covering various aspects of the MMF value chain, innovation, and sustainability. These included Prashant Agarwal, Wazir Advisors; Raman Dutta, Brands & Sourcing Leaders Association; Yatee Gupta, Fabiosys Innovations; Arpan B. Kharva, Textile Engineering Scholar, Sudhir K Verma, Knit Experts India; Ruma Kinger, Waste2Wear, and Abrar Ahmad, Syaahi Uniforms.
Naveen Seth, DSG, PHDCCI, delivered the theme address, and Rakesh Sangrai, Director, PHDCCI, skillfully moderated the opening and technical sessions. The conference by over 80 delegates who engaged in lively discussions and knowledge sharing with the distinguished speakers.
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