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The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) Version 7.0 has been recognized as one of the most advanced standards for due diligence in the textile sector by the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD).
The non-profit organization behind GOTS, Gold Standard announced, an OECD Alignment Assessment found GOTS Version 7.0 to be highly aligned with the OECD Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains in the Garment and Footwear Sector.
Having reviewed 167 criteria, the assessment confirmed, GOTS Version 7.0 addresses all six steps of the OECD Due Diligence Guidance. A significant 68 per cent of criteria were fully aligned, with another 30 per cent partially aligned, and only 2 per cent not aligned. Despite the overall result of being ‘partially aligned’ due to the OECD's stringent methodology, this outcome positions GOTS among the most advanced initiatives assessed to date.
Rahul Bhajekar, Managing Director, Global Standard, emphasizes, the recognition confirms GOTS’ significance as not just a certification, but also a robust tool supporting companies in embedding meaningful due diligence throughout their operations.
The OECD specifically commended GOTS for adopting a comprehensive approach which includes addressing the entire due diligence process, from risk identification and prioritization to mitigation, monitoring, communication, and remediation; defining consistent expectations across labor rights, environmental issues, and supply chain integrity and promoting responsible conduct within both certified companies' own operations and their full supply chains.
Ruslan Alyamkin, Responsible for Standard Development and Implementation (Social Responsibility), Global Standard, notes, the assessment validates GOTS as a system grounded in internationally recognized frameworks and confirms our Due Diligence Framework as an example of best practice in the industry. Aligned with the UN Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights (UNGPs), the GOTS Due Diligence Framework offers companies a structured, risk-based method for upholding human rights, environmental integrity, and ethical governance throughout the textile value chain.
This recognition builds on GOTS's existing credibility, having already been recognized by organizations like the International Trade Centre, the US Department of Agriculture, and the US Environmental Protection Agency. Claudia Kersten, Managing Director. Global Standard, affirms, OECD recognition assures certified companies, consumers, and regulators alike of GOTS being a proven instrument that supports the cause for sustainability, empowering businesses to thrive while advancing the SDGs.
The Cotton Association of India (CAI) has revised its cotton production forecast for the current 2024-25 season spanning October-September downwards to 301.15 lakh bales from 327.45 lakh bales last year.
The association predicts, cotton production in North India will decline sharply to 28.80 lakh bales this season from 45.62 lakh bales in the previous season.
Production in Central India is also expected to decline to 180 lakh bales from 202.21 lakh bales last year. Conversely, South India's cotton production is anticipated to increase from 73.85 lakh bales to 86.50 lakh bales.
The nation's cotton consumption may decrease to 305 lakh bales from 313 lakh bales used in the previous year. Meanwhile, cotton exports are predicted to decline to 17 lakh bales from 28.36 lakh bales last season, while imports are expected to more than double, increasing to 39 lakh bales from 15.20 lakh bales.
The CAI has voiced concerns regarding the continuous increase in cotton's Minimum Support Prices (MSP). They argue that higher MSPs distort market dynamics, impede natural price discovery, and raise production costs for textile mills. This could lead to higher consumer prices and undermine the global competitiveness of Indian cotton.
Breaking new ground in textile recycling, the Thuringian Research Institute for Textiles and Plastics (TITK) Rudolstadt showcased a polo shirt made from triple-recycled cellulose fiber at the World Expo in Osaka, Japan.
At the Expo, Benjamin Redlingshöfer, Managing Director, TTK wore a polo shirt emblazoned with 300 per cent recycling, demonstrating the institute's groundbreaking achievement. The shirt's fabric is made from Lyohemp an innovative lyocell fiber from TITK derived from hemp pulp. The fiber can undergo three successive recycling processes while retaining the desirable qualities needed for a stylish, comfortable garment.
The fiber makes closed textile recycling cycles feasible, states Redlingshöfer. It elevates the recycling process in the textile industry to a whole new level, he adds.
Traditionally, textile recycling often involves downcycling, where high-quality textile fibers are converted into lower-quality products. Even in these cycles, recycled material typically comprises only 20 per cent to 40 per cent of the final product, with the remainder being virgin material.
TITK's fiber-to-fiber recycling program aims to overcome this limitation by producing recycled fibers that match the quality and performance of premium virgin fibers. The TITK has now impressively demonstrated that not only is 100 per cent recycling of cellulose fibers possible, but that this process can even be used three times in a row without having to compromise on desired fiber characteristics such as a pleasant, soft feel, a slight luster, and very good, even dyeability, explains Redlingshöfer
Building on the success of the Lyohemp® recycling project, TITK researchers are now applying their findings to polycotton textiles, further expanding the potential for truly circular textile production by separating synthetic and cellulosic fiber streams for high-quality recycling.
Global shipments of textile machinery displayed sharp contrasts across segments in 2024, according to the 47th annual International Textile Machinery Shipment Statistics (ITMSS) released by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF). The report, compiled with input from over 200 manufacturers worldwide, covers six major categories spinning, draw-texturing, weaving, circular knitting, flat knitting, and finishing.
The spinning segment witnessed a major contraction. Shipments of new short-staple spindles dropped by 40 per cent, falling by 3.8 million units to 5.92 million. Open-end rotors saw a similar 39 per cent decline, totaling 623,000 units globally. The Asia & Oceania region continued to dominate, receiving 90 per cent of short-staple spindles and 89 per cent of rotors, although deliveries fell sharply. China, India, and Turkiye remained the top investors despite steep drops. Exceptions were noted in Vietnam and Bangladesh, where rotor shipments surged by 214 per cent and 44 per cent, respectively.
Long-staple (wool) spindle shipments bucked the trend, increasing by 62 per cent to 600,000 units. This growth was primarily driven by shipments to Iran, China, and Vietnam, accounting for 40 per cent, 30 per cent, and 13 per cent of global deliveries, respectively.
Texturing machinery showed the strongest recovery. Single-heater draw-texturing spindle shipments, mostly used for polyamide, jumped 95 per cent to 84,000 units, while double-heater spindles, used mainly for polyester, surged 80 per cent to 960,000 units. Asia & Oceania received nearly all deliveries, with China dominating the market.
In the weaving segment, global shuttle-less loom shipments rose by 32 per cent to 226,000 units. Water-jet looms led the increase with a 56 per cent growth, while air-jet looms rose 10 per cent. Rapier and projectile loom shipments declined by 7 per cent. Asia & Oceania absorbed 97 per cent of global loom deliveries, with China remaining the leading destination.
The circular knitting category faced a 15 per cent decline, with shipments totaling 28,000 units. China, though still the largest importer, recorded a sharp 42 per cent drop. India and Vietnam followed in second and third positions. Meanwhile, flat knitting machine shipments increased 16 per cent to 135,000 units, driven by continued demand from Asia, particularly China, which received 82 per cent of shipments.
Finishing machinery recorded a marginal 6 per cent rise overall. In the continuous fabrics segment, stenter shipments grew by 22 per cent. Other finishing machines reported mixed results, with dyeing lines showing both steep drops and triple-digit increases depending on the technology. In the discontinuous segment, jigger and beam dyeing machines declined by 44 per cent, while air jet and overflow dyeing equipment rose by 18 per cent and 5 per cent, respectively.
These contrasting trends reflect evolving regional dynamics, shifting investment patterns, and continued market volatility across global textile production.
Edla Rajitha, Member-Managing Committee, Prajwal Farmer Producer Company, from Pathipaka village in the Shayampet Mandal of Hanumakonda, recently commended farmers across Syamampeth, Geesugonda, Regonda and Parthagir Mandal for practicing H&M Better Cotton Initiative (BCI).
Speaking at a two-day Impact Panel Training session in Turkey, Rajitha informed, a global program focused on making cotton production more sustainable, the H&M Better Cotton Initiative is being implemented by 15, 563 Prajwal farmers in collaboration with WWF India.
At its recently concluded 2025 Conference, nonprofit organization, Better Cotton announced that it's on track to become a regenerative standard by next year.
This strategic shift will help boost their existing environmental protection goals and improve the working conditions for cotton farming communities. The new regenerative standard will also enable Better Cotton to establish guidelines focused on actively enhancing and restoring natural resources within agricultural and related ecosystems.
Eva Benavidez Clayton, Senior Director-Demand and Engagement, Better Cotton, emphasizes, there is a need to adopt approaches that go beyond simply mitigating or reducing harm. It is important to incorporate methods that actively restore the environment, she highlighted further stating, Better Cotton estimates, it will finalize the remaining steps to achieve regenerative standard status within the next 12 months.
Better Cotton is currently updating its criteria to secure this standard. The organization is also collaborating with its program partners to implement the standard and develop an outcomes-based reporting framework.
Building on Better Cotton's already recognized field-level standard, this move will ensure that farmers meeting their criteria adopt widely accepted regenerative practices, Clayton further noted.
Nitish Mishra, Industries, Bihar recently inaugurated a premium bag manufacturing unit for High Spirit Commercial Ventures (Priority Bags) at the Muzaffarpur Textile Park. This new facility significantly contributes to the state's industrial growth.
Spanning 48,000 sq ft, this facility boasts an annual production capacity of 840,000 vegan leather bags. It's expected to generate over 8,000 direct and indirect employment opportunities, providing a substantial boost to job creation in Muzaffarpur and surrounding districts. The factory is fully equipped with more than 3,500 advanced sewing machines, ready to engage young people and skilled artisanal workers.
With this addition, the High Spirit Group now operates four factories in Bihar, achieving a combined production capacity of 1.8 million bags per year within the state.
Hailing the initiative as a prime example of the ‘Make in Bihar’ model, Mishra highlighted it as a testament to growing investor confidence in the region. He emphasized on the state government's ongoing efforts to refine its industrial policies, aiming to make Bihar a more attractive investment destination and enhance local economic self-reliance.
A key aspect of this new unit is its commitment to sustainability and ethical production, exclusively utilizing vegan and eco-friendly raw materials. The factory is also focused on adhering to international grading compliance, further aiding the fashion industry in its journey toward environmental responsibility.
This opening follows another recent development in Muzaffarpur's industrial landscape. Bihar Chief Minister Nitish Kumar recently inaugurated a bag manufacturing unit valued at Rs. 37 crore (approximately $4.44 million USD) for Cosmos Lifestyl. Established under the Bihar Textiles and Leather Policy 2022, this unit is spread across 5 acre and also aims to foster industrial development and increase employment opportunities in the region.
Viscose, often dubbed ‘artificial silk’ earlier, has a long and complex history in the textile industry. A regenerated cellulose fiber, it's made from wood pulp or other plant materials, offering a luxurious drape, breathability, and a soft handfeel that often mimics natural fibers. However, traditional viscose production has faced numerous environmental challenges. Today, the industry is witnessing a shift, with cutting-edge developments in viscose manufacturing pushing towards enhanced comfort, functionality, and, critically, sustainability, making it a truly high-performance natural-look alternative.
A quest for better fibers
Viscose (also known as rayon in North America) was first developed in the late 19th century as a more affordable and accessible alternative to silk. Its natural cellulose base gives it many desirable properties akin to cotton and silk, including good absorbency, softness, and excellent dyeability. However, the conventional viscose production process, known as the "xanthate process," is chemical-intensive and can be highly polluting.
The current wave of innovation aims to overcome these limitations by improving environmental footprint. Which involves, addressing the chemical usage and water pollution associated with traditional methods. Another innovation being looked at is enhancing performance that is boosting properties like wet strength, wrinkle resistance, and durability, which were traditionally weaknesses of viscose. Achieving even more refined and consistent appearances and textures that rival high-end natural fibers is also an ongoing process.
Developments shaping the future of viscose
The evolution of viscose has led to the emergence of advanced generations of regenerated cellulosic fibers, primarily Modal and Lyocell. These represent significant leaps in both performance and sustainability:
Modal: Also considered second generation viscose is developed from beech wood pulp, Modal fibers undergo a slightly different treatment after spinning that enhances their strength and durability, particularly their wet strength. This makes them more resilient to washing and less prone to shrinkage or distortion than traditional viscose. Modal is renowned for its exceptional softness, smooth handfeel, and excellent moisture absorption, often described as having a "silky" or "cotton-like" feel.
Lyocell seen as third generation viscose is widely considered the most sustainable of the regenerated cellulosic fibers, Lyocell is produced using a "closed-loop" solvent-spinning process. This method, often using N-Methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO) as a solvent, recycles up to 99% of the water and chemicals, significantly reducing environmental impact. Lyocell fibers (famously branded as Tencel by Lenzing AG) are known for their strength, breathability, superior moisture management (they absorb moisture more uniformly than cotton), and a very soft, smooth handfeel. They also exhibit good drape and wrinkle resistance.
Advanced pulp sourcing: Emphasis is increasingly placed on sourcing wood pulp from sustainably managed forests (e.g., FSC or PEFC certified) that utilize renewable resources like eucalyptus, beech, and bamboo, which require less water and pesticides than cotton.
Enhanced finishing technologies: Beyond fiber development, innovative finishing processes are being applied to all types of viscose fabrics to further improve their handfeel, drape, and add specific functionalities such as anti-microbial properties or enhanced cooling effects.
Fiber modifications: Research continues into modifying fiber cross-sections and surface structures to further control luster, texture, and moisture transport, mimicking natural fibers with even greater precision.
Inherent challenges
However, the journey to perfecting viscose has involved tackling several inherent challenges:
Environmental impact of conventional viscose: The traditional viscose process uses hazardous chemicals like carbon disulfide and sulfuric acid, leading to air and water pollution if not properly managed. This is being overcoming with development and widespread adoption of closed-loop processes for Modal and especially Lyocell dramatically reduce chemical discharge and water consumption. Companies are investing heavily in cleaner production technologies and sustainable forest management certifications for their pulp sources.
Wet strength and dimensional stability: Conventional viscose loses significant strength when wet and can be prone to shrinking or stretching. However, now Modal fibers are engineered with improved wet strength, making them more durable for washing. Lyocell, with its highly uniform fiber structure, boasts even greater strength and excellent dimensional stability, leading to less shrinkage and better shape retention.
Wrinkling: Like cotton, conventional viscose can wrinkle easily. But advanced finishing treatments and improved fiber structures in Modal and Lyocell contribute to better wrinkle recovery and resistance, making garments easier to care for.
Cost and scalability of sustainable alternatives: The newer, more sustainable processes for Modal and Lyocell can be more expensive than traditional viscose production. As demand for sustainable textiles grows, economies of scale are improving. Major manufacturers are continuously optimizing their processes to reduce costs while maintaining high environmental standards. Brand and consumer demand for eco-friendly products also supports the higher price points for these advanced fibers.
Traceability and transparency: Ensuring that the wood pulp used comes from truly sustainable and non-deforesting sources. Therefore, certifications like FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) and PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification) are crucial. Companies like Lenzing are leading the way with advanced traceability systems, including fiber identification technologies, to ensure ethical and sustainable sourcing throughout the supply chain.
Commercial successes
The market has embraced advanced viscose fibers, driven by consumer demand for comfort, aesthetics, and sustainability.
Lenzing AG (Tencel): Lenzing's Tencel brand (which encompasses Lyocell and Modal fibers) is a global leader and perhaps the most prominent success story. Their fibers are widely adopted by major fashion and home textile brands for a variety of applications, from activewear and denim to luxury apparel and bedding. Lenzing highlights the closed-loop production, traceability, and softness of their fibers.
Tencel in denim: Tencel Lyocell has revolutionized the denim market. Traditionally, denim could be stiff and heavy. By incorporating Tencel™ Lyocell, brands like Levi's, G-Star RAW, and Reformation have created denim that is incredibly soft, breathable, and drapes beautifully, without compromising the rugged aesthetic. This has opened up new possibilities for comfortable and luxurious denim products. In fact, Lenzing reported strong growth in their cellulosic fibers segment, driven by the increasing demand for sustainable and high-performance materials. Their strategic focus on specialty fibers like Tencel and Lenzing Ecovero (a more sustainable viscose option) has been key to their success.
Birla Cellulose (Livaeco by Birla Cellulose): A major player in the global cellulosic fiber market, Birla Cellulose has invested significantly in sustainable technologies. Their Livaeco brand represents a range of sustainable viscose, modal, and lyocell fibers produced with lower environmental impact, including reduced water and GHG emissions. They offer full traceability from forest to fashion. Birla Cellulose has partnered with numerous international and Indian brands to integrate Livaeco fibers into their collections, emphasizing softness, fluidity, and eco-consciousness.
EcoVero Viscose (Lenzing AG): While Lyocell and Modal are advancements, Lenzing also offers EcoVero viscose, which is a more environmentally responsible version of conventional viscose. It uses less water and emits fewer greenhouse gases compared to generic viscose, with certified sustainable wood sourcing. This provides a more sustainable option for brands still seeking the specific characteristics of viscose.
Table: Viscose developments for enhanced performance and sustainability
|
Development Category |
Mechanism |
Benefits (Natural Fiber Mimicry/Performance) |
Commercial Impact |
|
Modal Fiber Production |
Modified spinning, higher tenacity from beech wood pulp |
Enhanced wet strength, improved dimensional stability, super softness, silky handfeel |
Widely used in underwear, activewear, bedding; superior to conventional viscose |
|
Lyocell Fiber Production |
Closed-loop solvent spinning (e.g., NMMO) with high solvent recovery |
Exceptional strength (wet & dry), superior moisture management, soft drape, cotton-like feel, excellent breathability |
Premium segments like activewear, denim, luxury apparel, bedding; leading sustainable option |
|
Sustainable Pulp Sourcing |
FSC/PEFC certified wood, renewable resources (eucalyptus, bamboo) |
Reduced deforestation, lower ecological footprint |
Foundation for eco-friendly claims, demanded by conscious brands |
|
Advanced Finishing |
Specialized treatments (e.g., enzymatic, softening) |
Enhanced handfeel, improved wrinkle recovery, added functionalities (e.g., anti-microbial) |
Elevates perceived luxury and functional performance |
|
Traceability Systems |
Fiber identification technology, blockchain solutions |
Guarantees ethical and sustainable supply chain, builds consumer trust |
Increasingly important for brand transparency and credibility |
Comparative properties of conventional viscose, advanced viscose (Modal/Lyocell), and natural fibers The table below illustrates how the properties of advanced viscose fibers bridge the gap between traditional viscose and popular natural fibers, offering a compelling blend of characteristics.
Table: Comparative properties of regenerated cellulosic and natural fibers
|
Property |
Conventional viscose (Rayon) |
Advanced viscose (Modal/Lyocell) |
Natural fibers (e.g., cotton/silk) |
|
Handfeel |
Soft, smooth, fluid, "silky" |
Very soft, smooth, often "cotton-like" (Lyocell) or "silky" (Modal), luxurious |
Soft, breathable, varied (e.g., crisp cotton, smooth silk) |
|
Drape |
Excellent, fluid |
Excellent, fluid, natural-like |
Excellent, graceful |
|
Breathability |
Good |
Excellent, superior moisture management and wicking |
High (cotton), moderate (silk) |
|
Moisture Absorption |
High, absorbs into fiber structure (can feel heavy when wet) |
Very high, more uniform absorption, quick-drying (especially Lyocell) |
High (cotton), moderate (silk), absorbs into fiber structure |
|
Wet Strength |
Low, significantly weakens when wet |
Improved (Modal), High (Lyocell), maintains strength when wet |
Moderate (cotton), Low (silk) |
|
Wrinkle Resistance |
Moderate to Low, prone to wrinkling |
Improved, better wrinkle recovery |
Variable (cotton wrinkles easily, silk less so) |
|
Durability / Abrasion Resistance |
Moderate |
Good to Excellent (especially Lyocell) |
Variable (cotton durable, silk delicate) |
|
Appearance |
Smooth, lustrous (can be dull) |
Smooth, often has a natural luster, can be tailored for specific aesthetics |
Natural variations, unique luster |
|
Pilling Resistance |
Moderate (can pill with wear) |
Good, improved over conventional viscose |
Variable (wool can pill, cotton less so) |
|
Environmental Impact (Production) |
High (chemical-intensive, water pollution if untreated) |
Significantly Reduced (closed-loop systems, sustainable forestry, lower water/energy for Lyocell/Modal) |
Variable (water/land use, pesticides for cotton; sheep impact for wool) |
|
Cost |
Affordable |
Moderate to High (due to advanced processes and sustainability) |
Variable (cotton affordable, silk expensive) |
|
UV Resistance |
Fair |
Fair to Good |
Variable (silk poor, cotton fair) |
|
Care Instructions |
Machine washable (delicate cycle), can shrink |
Easy care, often machine washable, less prone to shrinkage |
Variable (cotton easy, silk/wool delicate) |
Viscose growth path is firmly set on sustainability and advanced performance. Further innovations are expected in developing new bio-based feedstocks beyond traditional wood pulp, exploring fibers from agricultural waste, and continuing to refine the closed-loop systems for even greater efficiency. The goal is to solidify viscose's position as a truly sustainable and high-performance fiber that not only rivals but, in many applications, surpasses the comfort and aesthetics of conventional natural fibers, without the associated environmental burdens of older production methods. As the industry continues to prioritize circularity and responsible manufacturing, advanced viscose fibers will play a pivotal role in shaping the future of textiles.
Woolmark has joined forces with COLOURizd, a leader in dry textile colouring, to launch a breakthrough yarn dyeing technology called QuantumCOLOUR for wool and wool blends. The innovation, which will debut at Pitti Immagine Filati in Florence from July 1-3, offers a radically more sustainable and cost-effective alternative to conventional wool dyeing.
QuantumCOLOUR drastically cuts resource usage, requiring only 0.5 litres of water per kilogram of yarn compared to 60-120 litres in traditional dyeing. The process eliminates the need for bleaching, pre-treatment, and wastewater discharge. Only a wetting agent and a bluesign-certified pigment binder are used, making it a low-impact, closed-loop system suitable even for facilities without water treatment infrastructure.
“After extensive testing on Merino wool and wool blends, we realised COLOURizd has created something truly revolutionary for the wool industry,” said Julie Davies, General Manager, Processing Innovation & Education Extension at Woolmark. “This process delivers beautiful colour depth while significantly reducing environmental impact.”
Unlike conventional methods that use caustic soda, acids, salts and large amounts of water, COLOURizd’s pigment is injected into the yarn fibre bundle, creating soft textures and a wide range of hues. The technology has been validated by Woolmark on 100 per cent Merino and blends with cotton, Tencel, and nylon, across yarn counts from 30/2NM to 80/1NM. Tests confirm excellent colourfastness and wear durability on yarns, fabrics, and garments.
COLOURizd CEO Jennifer Thompson noted, “Woolmark represents the gold standard in wool, and this partnership will help us bring our low-impact process to new global markets. We're excited to extend sustainable performance to wool manufacturers worldwide.”
The two companies will showcase the innovation at booth I/20 during the upcoming Pitti Filati event in Florence.
Leading home textiles manufacturer, Welspun Living has collaborated with the National Skill Development Corporation (NSDC) to launch a large-scale skilling and employment initiative. This program is specifically designed to cultivate a skilled workforce for operator-level positions within India's thriving textile sector.
In its initial pilot phase, the program will involve training and certification of 1,000 candidates. A key focus of this initiative will include ensuring it attracts at least 50 per cent women participation with particular emphasis on individuals from underrepresented regions, including India's Northeastern states and Uttarakhand. The company has invested Rs 4.25 crore in this impactful program.
The company’s partnership with NSDC highlights its unwavering commitment to inclusive and sustainable growth, states Dipali Goenka, Managing Director and CEO, Welspun Living. By specifically targeting women from the North East and Uttarakhand, Welspun not only addresses critical skill gaps but also unlocks pathways to economic independence, fostering self-worth, and creating a lasting generational impact, he adds.
To be conducted at Welspun's state-of-the-art facilities in Anjar and Vapi, Gujarat, this comprehensive training program will incorporate a blended learning approach, combining essential classroom-based instruction with practical, hands-on, on-the-job training. It will cover key technical areas such as proficient machine handling, optimized production processes, stringent quality control measures, adherence to safety protocols, and the development of crucial soft skills.
Upon the successful completion of the program, all trainees will receive a joint certification from both the NSDC and Welspun, guaranteeing them captive employment within Welspun's extensive textile operations.
Emphasizing the braoder impact of this initiative, Rajesh Jain, Chief Human Resources Officer at Welspun Living, says, through its collaboration with NSDC, Welspun aims is to cultivate a more inclusive and future-ready textile workforce, thereby making a substantial contribution to national economic growth.
