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"The number of countries experiencing physical violence and threats against workers has risen by 10 per cent in just one year, says the annual ITUC Global Rights Index. Attacks on union members have been documented in 59 countries, fuelling growing anxiety about jobs and wages. The report shows corporate interests are being put ahead of the interests of working people in the global economy, with 60 per cent countries excluding whole categories of workers from labour law."
The number of countries experiencing physical violence and threats against workers has risen by 10 per cent in just one year, says the annual ITUC Global Rights Index. Attacks on union members have been documented in 59 countries, fuelling growing anxiety about jobs and wages. The report shows corporate interests are being put ahead of the interests of working people in the global economy, with 60 per cent countries excluding whole categories of workers from labour law.
Denying workers protection under labour laws creates a hidden workforce, where governments and companies refuse to take responsibility, especially for migrant workers, domestic workers and those on short-term contracts. In too many countries, fundamental democratic rights are being undermined by corporate interests, says Sharan Burrow, ITUC General Secretary. The ITUC Global Rights Index 2017 ranks 139 countries against 97 internationally recognised indicators to assess where workers' rights are best protected in law and in practice.
Working people are being denied basic rights through which they can organise and collectively bargain for a fair share. This, along with growing constraints on freedom of speech, is driving populism and threatening democracy itself, said Sharan Burrow. The report ranks the 10 worst countries for workers' rights in 2017 as Bangladesh, Colombia, Egypt, Guatemala, Kazakhstan, the Philippines, Qatar, South Korea, Turkey and the United Arab Emirates.
Bangladesh, an example
The country’s garment industry produces low-cost items and massive profits for a range of international brands, including Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Gap. The industry employs about 4.5 million workers, 80 per cent of whom are young girls from rural areas. In fact, one in every eight Bangladeshi directly or indirectly depends on the textile industry. Bangladesh’s garment workers are the lowest paid in the world, receiving just 5,300 takas ($68) per month. While hazardous roads and chronic power shortages are a serious problem for the garment industry, international retailers and investors are attracted by the country’s poverty-level wages.
Despite many promises from employers, wages have not improved in the past four years. A recent report cited, one of the employees, Ashik and his wife Rahinur, who worked in a factory producing clothes for international retailers such as H&M and Zara, were sacked for joining demonstrations demanding wage increase last December. They worked 14 hours a day but earned only $193 a month between them. Their wages were just enough to cover food and rent but not health care. Having lost their jobs, they could now only afford rice and some dried fish.
Need for stringent government policies
The challenge is for governments to accept their responsibility to govern for people, not just in the interests of big business, by making laws that respect international labour standards. Even under the most oppressive circumstances, workers will continue to organise unions, and it's time that politicians stood up for them instead of trampling on their rights, said Burrow.
The US has urged African countries to fulfil their obligations under the terms of Agoa, a preferential trade program of considerable benefit to Kenya. More than 66,000 jobs in Kenya are linked to Agoa, which earned the country a huge amount in textiles and apparel exports last year. Kenya is a member-state of the East African Community.
The US feels countries currently benefiting from trade preferences granted by the African Growth and Opportunity Act should continue complying with eligibility requirements established by US law.
The US-based Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association has lodged a complaint with a US trade agency alleging that EAC countries violated Agoa’s terms by deciding to bar imports of used clothing from the US beginning in 2019. The association wants the EAC countries declared ineligible to take part in Agoa.
The US has hinted that Agoa, which gives 37 countries duty-free access to the US market for many products, may not be the preferred instrument for trade relations with African nations. It feels that bilateral trade agreements rather than large multilateral deals can be very effective tools for African development.
The US further wants African countries to treat US companies favorably and ensure they are in the best position possible to enter African markets.
The first EurAsian Geotextiles Symposium (EAGS) was held in Beijing, 7 – 8 June, attracting over 200 participants from 14 countries. The Symposium was co-organised by the China Industrial Textiles Industry Association (CNITA) and EDANA, and was supported by several other key international organizations including the International Textile Manufacturers Association (ITMF), the International Geosynthetics Society (IGS) and the International Society for Geosynthetic Materials China Committee (CCIGS).
Participants had the chance to learn of the latest trends and developments in technologies, markets and applications for geotextiles during 22 presentations by industry leaders and experts. The significant potential for global development of the geotextiles market was highlighted through the conference and confirmed by the level of interest in the companies participating in the tabletop exhibition.
Li Lingshen, President of CNITA stated that the success of the first edition of the EAGS confirms the idea to organize a symposium dedicated to geotextilesand he thanks the partners and sponsors for the continued cooperation with EDANA.
The General Manager of EDANA, Pierre Wiertz, commented that Geotextiles will not only be indispensable to implement such a large infrastructure plan, they will also help reduce the environmental impact also the Chinese Belt and Road policy was launched, making geotextiles even more topical and promising as a market segment.
World fiber market consumption was up 1.5 per cent in 2016.Oil-based synthetic fibers had the biggest share with 62.7 per cent. Common synthetic textile fibers are polylactide, olefin, spandex, nylon, lyocell, lurex, luminex, ingeo, acrylic, aramid, tencel, acetate, rayon, and polyester fiber, whereas cellulosic and protein-based fibers consist of cotton, wood-based cellulose fibers, other natural fibers and wool.
Synthetic textiles show special functions such as stretching, waterproofing and stain resistance. Synthetic materials withstand damage from water or stains. Natural fibers tend to be much more sensitive than synthetic blends. This is mainly because natural products are biodegradable. Natural fibers are susceptible to larval insect infestation. But synthetic fibers are not a good food source for insects. These abilities make synthetic fibers more durable than natural fibers. Synthetic fibers pick up dyes easily and also have special qualities which make them preferable and suitable textiles for the fashion industry.
Synthetic textiles also have some disadvantages, synthetic textile fibers burn faster than natural fibers. Synthetic textiles are not skin-friendly so they can’t be worn for longer periods. Synthetic materials are non-biodegradable in comparison to natural fibers. These factors hinder the growth of the synthetic textile fiber market.
Scientists are focusing on developing new kinds of synthetic fibers which are eco-friendly.
Switzerland has topped the list every year since 2011. Switzerland is the gold medalist once again, and that's seven years running, so that's quite an outstanding performance," Francis Gurry, head of the U.N. World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO), told a news conference.
According to the UN agency, rich countries continue to dominate global innovation in terms of most new products and services, with Switzerland at the top for the seventh year running and high-income economies taking 24 of the top 25 spots – China is the exception at 22, moving up three places in the last 12 months.
The Global Innovation Index is produced jointly by WIPO and two business schools - INSEAD and the SC Johnson College of Business at Cornell University, and seeks to shed light on countries' competitiveness based on 81 indicators.
WIPO points out that innovation is key to sustaining the productivity growth required to meet the rising demand and to helping enhance the networks that integrate the sustainable food production, processing, distribution, consumption and waste management known as food systems.
A total of 17 economies comprise the 'innovation achievers' this year, with nine from the Sub-Saharan Africa region and three from Eastern Europe. Key findings show the rise of India as an emerging innovation centre in Asia, high innovation performance in Sub-Saharan Africa, showing particular strengths in institutions, infrastructure and business sophistication.
A group of Asian economies dubbed by WIPO as the "new Asian tigers" who are actively working to improve their innovation ecosystems and rank high in a number of important indicators related to education, productivity growth and high-tech exports, among others.
The theme of the GII 2017, 'Innovation Feeding the World,' carried out in agriculture and food systems in addition to adapting to climate change they face an enormous rise in global demand and increased competition for limited natural resources. The report underlines that innovation is key to sustaining the necessary productivity growth to help enhance networks that integrate the sustainable food production, processing, distribution, consumption, and waste management known as food systems.
Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), the premier apparel body, in association with Tata Consultancy Services (TCS), has developed software to alert garment manufacturers about GST (Goods and Services Tax) compliance.
The unique software is being launched for the betterment of textile manufacturers at a minimal cost. From cotton traders to ginners and fabric manufacturers, anyone found non-compliant with GST will be identified through this software. The best part of this software is that it identifies the stage of non-compliance and sends automated reminders for tax compliance.
A garment manufacturer knows which vendor in the value chain has not paid the tax and hence the garment manufacturer can guide the vendor to pay their tax. Priced at Rs 18,000 for the initial six months, the software has a unique feature for highlighting the stage of compliance. The software automatically sends reminders to a vendor or a supplier who has not paid a tax at any stage in the textile value chain.
The impact of the 12 per cent tax on readymade garments above the Rs 1000 mark is not going to be significant. The rates will remain static in the lower price category of garments, with an increase of a per cent or two in the higher category.
Nike plans to focus on the hottest-selling sneakers, slash the number of styles it offers and sell more shoes directly to customers online as part of a restructuring in which it also will cut about 1,400 jobs. Sales of running performance sneakers were flat and sales of basketball performance sneakers dropped last year.
Customers will barely notice the decrease in styles given the breadth of options Nike offers.
Nike is based in the United States. The layoffs represent about two per cent of its 70,000 employees around the world. It is believed the jobs cuts are aimed at eliminating redundant back-office positions as a result of a consolidation of reporting segments.
Nike, known for its swoosh logo, will also make its sneaker-selling apps available in more countries at a time when online sales mean many big retailers and department stores are closing stores.
The brand is getting even more aggressive in the digital marketplace. A main focus will be the 12 key cities in ten countries that it expects to represent more than 80 per cent of its projected growth through 2020. Those cities are New York, Los Angeles, London, Paris, Milan, Mexico City, Tokyo, Seoul, Shanghai and Beijing.
Kerala wants to revive its textile industry with a one-time capital infusion and a sustainable development and modernisation strategy. The 17 mills, in the public and cooperative sectors, offer direct employment to 5,000 and indirect employment to 15,000. Though not in the pink of health, they still earn an annual revenue of Rs 100 crores after making statutory payments to the exchequer.
Problems include a supply and demand mismatch, high cotton prices, low realisation from yarn sales, labor absenteeism due to uncertainty, and mounting dues to raw material suppliers and other commitments.
The hope is that a thorough intervention, monitoring, and one-time financial assistance will increase the capacity utilisation of the mills from the present 55.40 per cent to 98.50 per cent.
Strategies include a thorough modernisation, training, creation of a conducive milieu to win workers’ confidence, and the creation of a central purchasing and monitoring system. Moreover, the products will be channelised for distributing school uniforms and also other textile needs of various departments.
A one-time capital infusion will be resorted to as Rs 521.09 crores granted in different phases during the past one decade have not done any good in bailing out the industry from the red. The interest rate will be cut from 11.5 per cent to 10.35 per cent.
H&M had a four per cent year-on-year rise in sales for May. This is the latest in a string of soft sales numbers from the world’s second biggest fashion retailer based in Sweden. H&M faced tough conditions in many of its markets. Its shares are down 16 per cent this year.
After decades of strong growth, H&M has repeatedly missed sales forecasts over the past year while earnings have come under pressure from heavy investment and stiff competition from budget rivals and new online players.
The young value fashion market in which the H&M concept operates is very difficult. Inditex has outperformed H&M and other rivals over the past few years on the back of online growth and its flexible fast-fashion model.
H&M has disappointed market expectations on sales trends for many months now. May is the final month of the group's fiscal second quarter and its net quarterly sales reached 51.4 billion Swedish crowns for the period.
H&M is investing significantly in the supply chain, such as in new logistics solutions with greater levels of automation, but also in optimising its lead times. H&M has been investing heavily in IT investments to integrate its stores and e-commerce and make its supply chain faster and more flexible.
Goa wants investors to set up technical textile production units. A technical textile is a textile product manufactured for non-aesthetic purposes. Currently, technical textile materials are most widely used in filter clothing, furniture, hygiene medicals and construction material.
India’s technical textile market which is currently estimated at 14 billion dollars is likely to reach a level of 32 billion dollars by 2023, by diversifying towards non-woven technical textiles and forging global partnerships with counterparts. The vertically integrated supply chain and the diverse range of products are the main factors expected to contribute to the growth of the industry.
India is looking to increase exports of technical textiles, such as sweat absorbing clothes for athletes or fire retardant wear used by factory workers or fire-fighters, where margins are higher than they are in traditional garments. These apparel require specialised processing to meet requirements of customers as per global standards, but sell at higher price points than do readymade garments.
Technical textiles have multiple segments such as agrotech — crop covers and shade mats; tarpaulins, floor and wall coverings for buildings, and apparel used in cars and aircraft.
The global technical textile market is estimated to be around 100 billion dollars in which India has a negligible share.
