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The International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) has released its latest International Textile Industry Statistics (ITIS) for 2023, featuring updates on global spinning mill capacity and raw material consumption. The data reflects a comprehensive review with a new calculation method applied to historical series.
Globally, installed short-staple spindles reached 232 million units, with open-end rotors growing to 9.7 million. Air-jet spindle installations saw a sharp rise, hitting 637,000 units. Asia remains the dominant region for capacity expansion, while Turkiye led growth outside the continent. Installed shuttle-less looms globally increased to 1.7 million units.
Raw material consumption in the short-staple sector slightly declined to 43 million tons. Cotton and cellulosic fiber usage dropped by 4.4 per cent and 2.9 per cent, respectively. Conversely, synthetic fiber consumption rose marginally by 0.5 per cent, indicating a shift in material preferences.
The ITMF report underscores Asia's continued prominence in textile capacity building and highlights evolving trends in raw material utilization. These shifts reflect broader changes in global textile manufacturing and resource dynamics.
The athleisure market, a fashion phenomenon born from the fusion of athletic wear and leisurewear, is experiencing a seismic shift. While Lululemon has long reigned supreme, a new breed of challenger brands, led by the California-based Vuori, is vying for dominance. This feature delves into the competitive landscape of this dynamic industry, examining the distinct positioning of key players, their retail strategies, financial performance, and the overall market outlook.
The athleisure boom, a macro perspective
The global athleisure market is experiencing explosive growth. Driven by increasing health consciousness, a desire for comfortable clothing and the blurring lines between work and leisure, the market is projected to reach $547.01 billion by 2024, growing at a CAGR of 8.6 per cent from 2023 to 2028, as per Allied Market Research. This presents a lucrative opportunity for both established giants and emerging contenders.
Table: Global athleisure market
|
Region |
2023 market size ($ bn) |
Projected 2028 market size ($ bn) |
CAGR (%) |
|
North America |
181.28 |
275.47 |
8.7 |
|
Europe |
125.35 |
185.21 |
8.2 |
|
Asia-Pacific |
108.52 |
162.48 |
8.5 |
|
LAMEA |
31.86 |
47.85 |
8.6 |
|
Global |
447.01 |
671.01 |
8.6 |
Lululemon, the legacy leader
Luluemon is positioned as a premium athleisure brand with a focus on performance and style, primarily targeting women. It has an extensive global store network (700+ locations), strong online presence, and community-building initiatives like yoga classes. As of 2023 its revenue was $9.6 billion, and as of January it has a market cap of $65.44 billion. Its key strengths are brand recognition, loyal customer base, and robust supply chain. However, it faces several challenges like maintaining growth momentum, competition from emerging brands, and potential impact of economic slowdown.
Vuori, the rising challenger
Vurori has emerged as ‘Everyday performance apparel’ with an emphasis on comfort, versatility, and a relaxed aesthetic, initially targeting men. Its retail is focused on direct-to-consumer sales, expanding retail footprint with 79 stores in six countries, strategic partnerships with wholesalers like REI and Nordstrom.
As of 2023 Vuori revenue was $32.8 million (estimated) and its valuation as of November 2024 was $5.5 billion. The brand’s key strengths are strong product differentiation focus on profits, and effective social media marketing. However, scaling-up production and maintaining quality, building brand awareness, and competing with Lululemon's scale are some of its biggest challenges.
The athleisure boom has attracted a plethora of competitors. There is well established Nike which is expanding its dominance in sportswear into the athleisure segment. And Adidas, following a similar trajectory as Nike, leveraging performance-oriented roots. Under Armour on the other hand is transitioning into lifestyle and athleisure to diversify its offerings. And Alo Yoga is specializing in yoga-inspired apparel with a growing retail presence of over 100 stores.
The athleisure industry is expected to for continued growing with evolving consumer preferences and a focus on wellness. While Lululemon remains a dominant force, challenger brands like Vuori are disrupting the market with innovative products, strategic retail expansion, and a strong digital presence. The battle for market share will intensify, with brands needing to constantly adapt and innovate to capture the attention of increasingly discerning consumers.
Ahmet Oksuz, Chairman of the Istanbul Textile and Raw Materials Exporters Association (ITHIB), has proposed relocating Turkish textile production facilities to Syria, citing lower costs and strategic advantages. In an interview with Anadolu Agency, Oksuz emphasized Syria's potential as a promising investment destination, especially in the textile sector.
Ahmet Oksuz noted that many Syrians who settled in Turkiye have contributed to various industries and suggested that establishing production facilities in Syria as they return home could be advantageous for both countries. He pointed out that Turkiye is facing increasing labor costs and shortages in labor-intensive sectors, making Syria a more cost-effective option for production.
Currently, many Turkish textile firms are investing in Egypt, but Oksuz suggested that shifting focus to Syria would provide greater strategic benefits, particularly in regions close to Turkiye. He added that such investments could enhance Turkiye's production capacity while creating employment opportunities for Syrians.
Sinan Oncel, president of the United Brands Association (BMD), acknowledged the gradual pace of normalization in Syria but expressed optimism about future opportunities for Turkish retail expansion, including franchising.
As Syria’s reconstruction progresses following the collapse of its Baath regime, Turkiye’s textile and retail sectors are poised to play a pivotal role in boosting employment and rebuilding efforts in the region.
As 2024 concludes, the wool industry stands at a crossroads, balancing significant challenges with meaningful advancements. Australian wool prices reached a four-year low, straining growers with rising costs and declining volumes. Yet, the unwavering dedication of the supply chain highlights wool’s enduring value and potential.
This year underscored the need for strategic action. Without support, the availability of premium wool, a cornerstone of the fashion industry, risks falling short of future demand. Strategic partnerships and long-term commitments are vital to stabilizing supply chains, safeguarding livelihoods, and ensuring the continuity of this extraordinary fibre.
Despite obstacles, 2024 brought significant achievements. Woolmark+ set a bold, nature-positive vision for wool’s future, emphasizing environmental and social benefits. Campaigns like Wear Wool, Not Waste reached over 64 million people, promoting wool’s role in sustainable fashion. Woolgrowers also advocated for fair, science-based standards to reflect wool’s true environmental impact.
Consumer demand for natural fibres surged, aligning with wool’s unmatched sustainability credentials. Woolmark celebrated its 60th anniversary with a 6.8 per cent growth in licensees and introduced a Recycled Wool Specification to combat textile waste. Innovations like The Wool Lab, sourcing guides, and the new Supplier Search further strengthened connections across the supply chain.
As the industry celebrates its legacy of quality and innovation, it looks ahead with optimism. By driving sustainability and collaboration, wool’s future remains bright, ensuring its timeless appeal for generations to come.
The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) Herman and Myrtle Goldstein Graduate Student Paper Competition, held under the guidance of the Education Advisory Board, highlights outstanding research by graduate students in textile-focused disciplines. The 2024 event took place on November 12, in conjunction with the AATCC Fall Research Committee Meetings. Finalists from NED University of Engineering and Technology, North Carolina State University, and the University of Georgia presented their research to a panel of esteemed judges.
Nur-Us-Shafa Mazumder, a PhD candidate at NC State University, won first place and $1,000 for her research on firefighter turnout gear and PFAS exposure, aiming to improve firefighter health and safety. Melissa Armistead, also from NC State, claimed second place and $800 for evaluating respiratory devices for wildland firefighters using animatronic models.
Hassan Ali from NED University earned third place and $600 for his work predicting thermal conductivity in multilayered woven carbon composites. Yahya Absalan from the University of Georgia was awarded fourth place for his research on TiO2 nanoparticles for degrading textile dyes in water.
The competition was judged by Kanti Jasani, Barry Brady, Dallas Crotts, Renuka Dhandapani, Tim Dixon, and AATCC Past President Nelson Houser. AATCC extends its gratitude to all participants and congratulates the winners. Abstracts for the 2025 competition will open in spring 2025.
The National Cotton Council (NCC) commends the House of Representatives for passing a Continuing Resolution to fund the government through mid-March. The package extends farm bill provisions for a year and delivers crucial disaster and economic assistance to cotton and other crop producers.
NCC Chairman Joe Nicosia expressed gratitude for the support, stating, “This relief will help farmers address rising costs, falling market prices, and disaster-related losses. We urge the Senate to act swiftly to send this bill to the President.”
While acknowledging the package doesn’t fully meet all industry needs, Nicosia called on the incoming Congress to prioritize a new farm bill in early 2025. "Our industry needs comprehensive, long-term support," he emphasized.
The funding provides critical short-term relief while highlighting the ongoing challenges farmers face. NCC remains committed to advocating for robust support across all industry segments.
World’s largest dyed fabrics and shirts producer, Luthai Group plans to set up its maiden factory spanning 500,00 sq m in Egypt. The $385 million facility will help boost Egypt’s position in the global textile industry.
With the group setting up its entire supply chain, from yarn production to garment production in Egypt, the factory will export around 100 per cent of its output, aligning with Egypt’s strategy to attract foreign export-focused investments.
Praising Egypt’s stable economy, Liu Deming, Marketing Director, Lutai Group, says, key factors like Egypt’s stable economy, skilled workforce and strong ties with China are driving the investment decisions in the country.
Hossam Heiba, CEO, GAFI confirms, Lutai is eligible for maximum incentives under the Investment Law and the Golden License, which streamlines operational approvals within 20 working days.
Growth of internet retail, rising disposable incomes and greater fashion consciousness is spurring the growth of lingerie market in India. As per a report by the IMARC Group, from $4.9 billion in 2023 the market is expected to reach $10.9 billion by 2032, growing at a CAGR of 9.32 per cent during 2024-2032.
Driven by the changing trends in consumer behavior and preferences, the Indian lingerie market is undergoing a significant transformation. There is a growing demand for personalised lingerie in the country with consumers demanding unique shapes and sizes.
The rise of virtual fitting rooms and AI recommendations is also boosting consumer engagement with women preferring lingerie combining style with support.
Opting for modern designs incorporating traditional elements, women are seeking stylish, comfortable, and practical lingerie. There is a growing focus on personal style and self-expression, especially in cities. The rise of e-commerce has made it easier to access various brands and styles from home.
Boosting demand for trendy and high-quality lingerie, influencers and celebrities are promoting brands and styles to their followers. More brands are investing in digital marketing to reach their audiences with equally more consumers choosing lingerie brands that focus on sustainability and ethics.
Driven by a growing environmental awareness, brands are using organic cotton and recycled materials to reduce waste. Consumers’ demands to know the social impact of their products is pushing brands to be more transparent.
Replacing nearly 31 per cent of workers, automation has significantly reduced the demand for human labor in Bangladesh's garment sector, says a new report titled, ‘Assessment of Technological Transition in the Apparel Sector of Bangladesh and Its Impact on Workers.’
Jointly conducted by Solidaridad Network Asia, Bangladesh Labor Foundation, and BRAC University, the report shows, labor requirement in Bangladesh’s sweater factories have reduced by almost 37 per cent per production line. On the other hand, labor demand in woven factories has declined by 27 per cent. The highest reduction of 48 per cent is witnessed during the cutting process followed by 26.57 per cent during the sewing operations.
Shahidur Rahman, Professor - Economics and Social Sciences Department, BRAC University, notes, while beneficial in some respects, automation poses significant challenges for workers—particularly women, those with low literacy, unskilled laborers, and older employees.
The industry’s shift to automation has created an urgent need to address workers' adaptability and security in this changing landscape, emphasises Rahman.
Sultan Uddin Ahmed, Chairman, Labor Reform Commission, highlights, there is a need for a clear plan to determine the number of workers that can be retained in the sector and ways to utilise the existing workforce.
He urges the entrepreneurs, government, and trade unions to collaborate in order to ensure a balanced approach between automation and workforce needs. He also emphasises on the need for an investment in research to maximise the potential of Bangladesh’s workforce.
Miran Ali, Member-Support Committee, BGMEA, notes, the sector should address external inefficiencies, such as power shortages and road congestion that impact worker productivity.
High input costs, such as utilities and logistics, prevent the sector from raising labor wages, he points out. To enhance the sector’s overall efficiency, the government needs to increase automation within its own departments, he adds
AHM Shafiquzzaman, Secretary, Ministry of Labor and Employment, opines, automation is required in the sector for it to survive and grow. He urges workers to remain informed about technological advancements besides announcing plans to establish an ‘Employment Department’to address fluctuations in labor market demand and supply.
A new analysis of EU garment import data from the International Trade Commission reveals a shift in sourcing patterns. While overall imports have stabilized, with a minor 2 per cent dip year-to-date (YTD) September 2024 compared to the same period in 2023, a notable trend is the reversal of consolidation.
In 2019, top garment exporting countries held a commanding 98.1 per cent share of the EU market. However, this dominance has weakened, with the figure dropping to 93.9 per cent YTD September 2024. This suggests a growing diversification in the EU's sourcing strategy, potentially driven by factors such as rising costs in traditional production hubs, geopolitical considerations, and a desire for greater supply chain resilience.
Analysis reveals winners and losers
David Birnbaum, a leading expert in textile and apparel trade, has categorized the key exporting countries into four tiers to better understand the evolving dynamics:
Tier 1: EU and China
This tier, representing the largest suppliers, has seen internal shifts. While the combined market share of the EU and China remained relatively stable between 2019 and YTD September 2024 (55.4 per cent to 56.1 per cent), the EU's internal sourcing has surged from 33.3 per cent to 40 per cent. Conversely, China's share has declined from 22.1 per cent to 16.1 per cent. This could indicate a ‘nearshoring’ trend, with EU manufacturers favoring production closer to home.
Tier 2: Bangladesh, Türkiye, Vietnam, India
This tier shows mixed results. Bangladesh, Vietnam, and India have all registered gains in the most recent data, signalling their growing competitiveness in the EU market. However, Türkiye appears to be facing headwinds.
Tier 3: Cambodia, Morocco, Pakistan
All three countries in this tier are emerging as ‘winners’, with their market share increasing according to the latest data. This suggests that they are successfully capitalizing on the diversification trend and offering competitive advantages to EU buyers.
Tier 4: Myanmar, Tunisia, Indonesia, UK
These countries seem to be experiencing a long-term decline in their EU market share. This could be attributed to various factors, including political instability, rising labor costs, or challenges in meeting sustainability standards.
Table: EU garment imports market share (%)
|
Country/Region |
2019 |
2020 |
2021 |
2022 |
YTD 09-23 |
YTD 09-24 |
|
EU |
33.3 |
32.9 |
33.5 |
29.9 |
35.3 |
40 |
|
China |
22.1 |
22.2 |
21 |
21.5 |
18.7 |
16.1 |
|
Bangladesh |
13.6 |
13.6 |
14.7 |
16.7 |
14.8 |
13.1 |
|
Türkiye |
7.7 |
8.3 |
8.8 |
8.5 |
8.3 |
6.6 |
|
Vietnam |
3.2 |
3.3 |
3.2 |
3.7 |
3.7 |
3.1 |
|
India |
3.7 |
3.3 |
3.3 |
3.5 |
3.3 |
3.2 |
|
Cambodia |
3.2 |
3 |
2.8 |
3.1 |
3.1 |
2.9 |
|
Morocco |
2.4 |
2.2 |
2.5 |
2.3 |
2.4 |
2.1 |
|
Pakistan |
2.3 |
2.4 |
2.7 |
2.4 |
2.7 |
2.4 |
|
Myanmar |
2 |
2.3 |
1.9 |
2.4 |
2.1 |
1.4 |
|
Tunisia |
1.7 |
1.6 |
1.5 |
1.5 |
1.8 |
1.4 |
|
Indonesia |
1.1 |
1.1 |
1.1 |
1.2 |
0.9 |
0.8 |
|
UK |
2 |
2 |
1.3 |
0.9 |
0.9 |
0.7 |
Looking ahead
This early analysis of EU garment import data reveals a market in flux. The ongoing diversification trend presents both challenges and opportunities for garment-exporting countries. As the EU continues to re-evaluate its sourcing strategies, agility and adaptability will be key for suppliers to maintain and grow their market share. Factors such as sustainability, speed-to-market, and cost-efficiency will likely play a crucial role in shaping the future landscape of EU garment imports.
