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Spinners face multiple interrelated challenges while selecting and processing yarns for a specific fabric end‑use. Below are the key issues around yarn properties and suitability—and proven strategies to overcome them:

1. Inconsistent yarn fineness (Linear Density)

Challenge: Variations in yarn count (eg: Ne, Tex) lead to uneven fabric hand, weight, and appearance.

Mitigation strategies:

  • Automated monitoring: Implement real‑time laser or capacitive sensors on the drafting frame to detect linear density fluctuations and automatically adjust drafting zones.
  • Controlled blowroom blending: Pre‑blend fibers to a tight specification (±1%) so upstream fiber variations are minimized before spinning.
  • Quality feedback loops: Use post‑spin Uster evenness testing data to recalibrate card and draw‑frame settings.

2. Yarn strength and tenacity

Challenge: Insufficient tensile strength causes breakages during weaving or knitting, harming productivity.

Mitigation strategies:

  • Optimized twist levels: Fine‑tune twist per inch (TPI) based on fiber staple length—higher twist for shorter staples to enhance cohesion, lower for long‑staple cotton to preserve softness.
  • Fiber blending: Introduce small percentages of high‑tenacity fibers (e.g., polyester microfibers) into cotton yarns to boost strength without compromising hand.
  • Process conditioning: Maintain optimal draft humidity (65–70% RH) to increase yarn tenacity and reduce static‑induced breakages.

3. Hairiness and Fiber Fly

Challenge: Excessive hairiness leads to pilling, reduced fabric clarity, and machine dust accumulation.

Mitigation strategies:

  • Antipilling treatments: Apply Sirospun or compact spinning technologies to trap short fiber ends within the yarn core.
  • Enzyme finishing: Use controlled cellulase enzyme treatments post‑fabric formation to trim protruding fibers.
  • Air‑jet cleaning: Integrate air‑jet cleaning modules pre‑finishing to remove loose fiber fly.

4. Yarn imperfections (Thick/Thin Places, Neps)

Challenge: Thick and thin spots or neps show up as visible defects in fabric, impacting aesthetics.

Mitigation strategies:

  • High‑resolution sensors: Deploy Uster Quantum or similar sensors at multiple process stages to detect and auto‑correct slubs and neps.
  • Regular maintenance: Schedule routine cleaning and maintenance of carding flats and comb teeth to prevent fiber entanglement that causes neps.
  • Optical sorting: In high‑value applications, use upstream optical fiber grading to remove immature or defective fibers before spinning.

5. Yarn hairiness vs. smoothness trade‑off

Challenge: While hairiness can create desirable “peach‑skin” effects, too much can ruin fabric drape and performance.

Mitigation strategies:

  • Selective finishes: Balance mechanical (calendering) and chemical (silicone softeners) finishing to achieve target hairiness levels.
  • Hybrid spinning: Combine ring and air‑jet spinning lines to develop core‑sheath structures—smooth sheath for handle, hairy core for bulk and effect.

6. Twist variability and torque

Challenge: Inconsistent twist distribution can impart skew or torque in knit fabrics, causing garments to twist or skew on the body.

Mitigation strategies:

  • Precision twist stands: Use electronically controlled twist stands with closed‑loop feedback on torque sensors to keep twist uniform.
  • Torque‑balanced plying: For plied yarns, apply S‑ and Z‑twists in equal measure and alternate ply directions to counteract residual torque.

7. Special functionality integration

Challenge: Incorporating features—moisture‑wicking, anti‑microbial, flame‑resistance—often alters spinning behavior and yarn hand.


Mitigation strategies:

  • Microencapsulation: Use microcapsules with functional agents applied during fiber extrusion (for synthetics) to ensure uniform distribution and minimize impact on spin‑ability.
  • Post‑spin coating: Apply plasma or chemical coatings post‑spin on compact lines to add functionality while preserving yarn integrity.
  • Process trials: Run small‑batch trials to calibrate drafting, traveler speed, and drying parameters when adding finishes.

8. Cost vs performance optimization

Challenge: High‑performance fibers and processes can dramatically increase costs, squeezing margins.
Mitigation strategies:

  • Strategic blending: Blend premium specialty fibers (eg: modal, Tencel) at low percentages (5–10%) into commodity polyester or cotton bases to achieve performance gains at controlled costs.
  • Lean manufacturing: Adopt just‑in‑time raw material procurement and minimize inventory carrying costs, leveraging supplier consignment stock where possible.
  • Value‑based pricing: Partner with brand customers on performance‑linked pricing models—higher price for guaranteed performance metrics.

By leveraging advanced monitoring, precise process control, and strategic material choices, spinners can optimize yarn properties for any desired fabric end‑use—ensuring consistency, functionality, and cost‑effectiveness across their product ranges.

 

The Tamil Nadu Spinning Mills Association (TASMA) has urged the Textile and Commerce Ministries to levy anti-dumping duties on the rising inexpensive viscose staple yarn (VSY) imports from China.

As per K. Venkatachalam, Chief Advisor, TASMA, the rise in imports of cheaper Chinese VSY into the domestic market due to the US-China trade dispute has severely impacted the textile mills in the southern region. This is negatively affecting textile businesses around the Karur, Dindigul, and Pallipalayam areas in Tamil Nadu, he notes.

The ongoing US-China tariff war has led to China dumping its viscose staple yarn (VSY) in India at a low price of Rs 175 per kg. The uncompetitive fiber price by the monopoly manufacturer of VSF has led to stabilization of VSY price at Rs 198 per kg, explains Venkatchalam. .

Domestic VSY manufacturers cannot lower the price of VSY below Rs 198, even if they were to sell it at their cost price. Importing cheap viscose fiber into the country is not possible due to existing quality control regulations. All domestic spinning mills producing VSY are reliant on the monopoly manufacturer, which has priced VSF higher than the prevailing global market rates, he adds.

A price difference of Rs 13 per kg (approximately $0.16 per kg) of yarn is not economically viable for domestic mills. Unless the government steps in immediately to curb these cheap imports, the domestic mills engaged in VSY production will face shutdowns, warns Venkatachalam.

 

Led by Marco Charles Mtunga, Director General, a delegation from the Tanzania Cotton Board recently visited the Karachi Cotton Association to promote their shared interests and explore more opportunities for exporting cotton from Tanzania.

During the meeting, KCA officials expressed concerns about the quality of cotton being imported from Tanzania and the packaging of the cotton bales. Furthermore, they pointed out to challenges related to tracking the origin and ensuring sustainable practices, which local importers faced when buying raw cotton from Tanzania.

Mtunga assured the KCA members of addressing these issues with the Tanzanian Government to resolve them in the best interest of Pakistani cotton importers.

He explained, Cotton production in Tanzania was mainly driven by small-scale farmers, with the Shinyanga and Mwanza regions being the largest cotton-growing areas. On average, the country cultivates cotton on about a 400,000 acre farm every year. However, the amount of cotton produced per acre is lower compared to the global average, Mtunga added.

Dependent mostly on rainfall, this cotton cultivation is affected by weather conditions, the prices farmers receive, and the availability of farming supplies, agricultural advice, and new technologies. Jahangir Moghul, Vice Chairman, KCA notes, after reaching a high of 14.26 million bales in 2004-05, Pakistan's cotton production gradually decreased each year. As a result, the local textile industry is forced to import raw cotton to meet its increasing needs.

 

The South Gujarat Unit of the Textile Association (India) is set to organize an insightful seminar on April 22, 2025, focusing on the export potential of Man Made Fibre (MMF) products. With global demand for MMF textiles rising, the event aims to highlight strategies for growth through sustainability, innovation and government support.

The seminar will feature three key sessions. These include a session titled, ‘Export Opportunities in MMF Products by Dr Gurudas Aras, Independent Director and Strategic Advisor; the second session titled, ‘Government Policies to Support MMF Fabric Exports by Ashish Gujarati, President, Pandesara Weavers Co-operative Society and Past President, SGCCI; and third session by Kailash Hakim, President, Federation of Surat Textile Traders Association. This session will be titled, ‘Viewpoint of Textile Traders on MMF Fabric Exports.

The seminar will be held at the Baghban Kratos Club in Pal, Surat.

 

From Rs 31, 154.19 crore in 2013-14, sales of ‘khadi’ (handspun and handwoven cloth) and village industry products rose by 447 per cent to Rs 170,551.37 crore (approximately $20.47 billion, based on current exchange rates) in FY2024-25, as per a report by the Ministry of Micro, Small andMedium Industries.

At the same time, MSME goods production increased by 347 per cent to Rs 116,599.75 crore (approximately $14.02 billion ) in the last fiscal year, up from Rs 26,109.07 crore (approximately $3.14 billion) in 2013-14. Similarly employment generation in the sector increased by 49.23 pr cent, as per the report.

Production of ‘khadi’ clothing specifically grew from Rs 811.08 crore (approximately $97.5 million ) in 2013-14 to Rs 3,783.36 crore (approximately $454.7 million) in 2024-25. Sales of these clothes increased from Rs 1,081.04 crore (approximately $130 million) in 2013-14 to Rs 7,145.61 crore (approximately $858.4 million) in the last financial year.

While in FY2013-14, the sector employed 13 million people, this rose to 19.4 million in 2024-25, marking an increase of 49.23 per cent, the report adds.

 

Held by the PHD Chamber of Commerce and Industry (PHDCCI), the conference titled, ‘The Future of Textiles: Challenges and Opportunities in Man-Made Fibers,’ at PHD House in New Delhi, addressed the evolving landscape and significant potential within the man-made fiber industry. The event brought together leading figures, policymakers, and key stakeholders from the industry

The conference commenced with a welcome address by Madhu Sudhan Bhageria, Chairperson, PHDCCI Textile Committee and CMD, Filatex India. He emphasized on the urgent need for a robust and sustainable fiber ecosystem, pointing out China's global dominance in polyester production and urging India to develop a unified and forward-thinking strategy to strengthen its MMF capabilities.

Ashok Malhotra, Mission Director, National Technical Textile Mission (NTTM), graced the event as the Guest of Honor and delivered the keynote address. He emphasized on the critical need for India to accelerate its growth in MMF, aiming for a substantial increase in market penetration to achieve global competitiveness. Malhotra also highlighted India's potential in technical textiles and the NTTM’s initiatives to promote domestic manufacturing and explore advanced applications, while acknowledging India’s growing strengths in niche export markets.

Sanjay Sharma, President & COO, BMD, shared key industry insights discussing the complexities of the current volatile, uncertain, complex, and ambiguous (VUCA) global market.

Rajeev Gupta, Joint Managing Director, RSWM, delivered a compelling address on the increasing global dominance of MMFs and emphasized India’s potential to significantly expand its MMF fiber base to meet ambitious export targets, underscoring the importance of aligning private sector innovation with government support programs.

Jitender Kumar Gupta, Head – TXD & Scientist – E, Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS), Government of India, highlighted the crucial role of standardization and Quality Control Orders (QCOs) in ensuring the quality and compliance of MMFs and yarns, emphasizing the significance of the BIS Standard Mark.

The conference also featured insightful presentations from other leading experts, covering various aspects of the MMF value chain, innovation, and sustainability. These included Prashant Agarwal, Wazir Advisors; Raman Dutta, Brands & Sourcing Leaders Association; Yatee Gupta,  Fabiosys Innovations; Arpan B. Kharva, Textile Engineering Scholar, Sudhir K Verma, Knit Experts India; Ruma Kinger, Waste2Wear, and Abrar Ahmad, Syaahi Uniforms.

Naveen Seth, DSG, PHDCCI, delivered the theme address, and Rakesh Sangrai, Director, PHDCCI, skillfully moderated the opening and technical sessions. The conference by over 80 delegates who engaged in lively discussions and knowledge sharing with the distinguished speakers.

 

Apparel Group has launched the first MLB store in the UAE, marking the South Korean streetwear brand’s official entry into the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC) market. The flagship store opened at Dubai Hills Mall with a grand celebration attended by fashion influencers, media, and trend-conscious shoppers, showcasing MLB’s unique fusion of street style and American sports heritage.

Globally recognized for its bold, fashion-forward collections and iconic headwear, MLB draws inspiration from Major League Baseball while catering to urban fashion sensibilities. The launch introduced the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, featuring statement apparel, caps, and sneakers designed for modern lifestyles.

This Dubai outlet is MLB’s first in the GCC, and part of a broader strategic plan by Apparel Group to expand the brand across Saudi Arabia, Qatar, Oman, and Bahrain over the next five years.

Neeraj Teckchandani, CEO of Apparel Group, commented, “Bringing MLB to the UAE reflects our vision to diversify our fashion portfolio with globally relevant brands. MLB’s blend of streetwear and sport appeals to the region’s youthful, style-savvy audience. This is just the beginning of an exciting journey.”

The launch event offered guests immersive experiences, including live performances, personalized styling sessions, and exclusive giveaways, reflecting the brand’s energetic, fashion-meets-sport DNA.

With this milestone, Apparel Group continues to strengthen its influence in the regional fashion landscape by introducing internationally acclaimed labels and setting new benchmarks in lifestyle retail. MLB’s entry signals a new era of premium streetwear in the Middle East.

 

Aiming to explore business opportunities in untapped domestic and international markets, ready-made garment manufacturers in Indore are collaborating with Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) to showcase their products on joint platforms.

With its estimated market size exceeding $120 million, Indore's RMG sector looks to market its brands nationwide and expand the reach of Indore's apparel both domestically and overseas.

Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor, Clothing Manufacturers Association Of India (CMAI), states, a key manufacturing hub for kids' wear, Indore has recognized that effective branding will help local manufacturers scale their products in new markets, both within India and internationally. The association aims to assist local manufacturers in growing their businesses and developing platforms to enable them to showcase their products, he adds. CMAI also plans to host a garment fair in June in Mumbai, where garment manufacturers from Indore will display their offerings.

Considering the competition in the market, it has become essential to explore alternative markets and expand reach on international platforms. Many ready-made garment manufacturers in Indore have already begun exporting, and many others are eager to tap into new markets, for which crucial know-how is necessary.

So far, approximately 30 garment manufacturers from Indore have agreed to exhibit their products and participate in B2B meetings at the CMAI fair in June. Additionally, in July, the Indore garment manufacturers plan to organize their own fair, where around 300 local manufacturers are expected to display their products.

 

Recognized by the United Nations as one of the world’s least developed countries, Lesotho is currently grappling with significant challenges in its textile exports following the United States' widespread ‘reciprocal tariffs.

With its economy heavily reliant on textile exports, especially to the United States, Lesotho’s clothing exporters face a 50 per cent duty under the new tariff system.

According to the founder of a major garment factory in the capital city, Maseru, these high tariffs are likely to severely damage the country's already vulnerable economy.

They will prevent buyers from placing their orders in garment manufacturers in Lesotho, says Teboho Kobeli, founder and managing director of Afri Expo Textiles.

There are currently 200 unemployed people in the Lesotho garment industry. This proves a disaster for the entire family with both production and income declining, explains Malerai Mosotho, Production Manager.

 

Having increased by 25 per cent Y-o-Y to $5.7 billion in 2024-25, India’s leather, non-leather footwear and products' exports are expected to rise to over $6.5 billion in FY26, as per the exporters' body, Council for Leather Exports (CLE). According to CLE, the sector is witnessing a healthy demand in both developed and developing countries.

In 2024-25, India’s leather and non-leather footwear and products exports exceeded their $1 billion target set up by the Department of Commerce. These exports are expected to further rise to over $6.5 billion in 2025-26, notes R Selvam, Executive Director, CLE.

The 10 per cent hike in tariffs has led to exporters offering discounts to buyers, avers Jalan. They have also recommended a ‘'zero-for-zero' duty to the government in the proposed bilateral trade agreement with the US, he adds.

The Council has a full order book for the coming months with a huge demand coming from the US and the UK, Jalan states.

Having a total turnover of $19 billion, the industry employs around 42 lakh people. It has the potential to reach a total turnover of about $39 billion by 2030, including domestic production of $25 billion and export turnover of $13.7 billion, as per industry experts.

These experts further reveal, several Chinese investors plan to set up production units in India in collaboration with Indian footwear players.

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