FW
In a world increasingly aware of environmental issues, the textile industry stands out as a significant contributor to pollution. However, a revolution is brewing within this sector, led by pioneers like Yawer Ali Shah, co-founder and CEO of AMA Herbal Laboratories Private Limited. Since 1996, Yawer has championed the use of natural dyes, long before sustainability became a buzzword in the industry.
Yawer's journey began at a seminar hosted by a German company, Zeneca, in the mid-90s. It was here that he learned about the impending bans on azo dyes in Europe, a pivotal moment that ignited his passion for natural alternatives. "At that time, people were only talking about azo-free products," Yawer recalls. "But I realized that the future lay in natural dyes, which are inherently safer and more sustainable."
Natural dyes, derived from plants and minerals, offer a stark contrast to synthetic dyes, which often rely on harmful chemicals. Yawer emphasizes that the textile industry is responsible for a staggering amount of pollution, with over 800 chemicals potentially involved in the dyeing process alone. "Only a fraction of these chemicals have been researched," he warns, highlighting the uncertainty surrounding the safety of many synthetic dyes. "What is considered safe today may be banned tomorrow."
Despite the clear benefits of natural dyes, challenges remain. Issues such as dye consistency, speed, and year-round availability have historically hindered their widespread adoption. However, Yawer's innovative approach addresses these concerns. His company employs a unique, water-based extraction process that eliminates the need for high temperatures and reduces water consumption significantly compared to traditional methods. "Our process is not only eco-friendly but also efficient," he states proudly. "We are chemical-free and reduce energy usage, making natural dyes a viable option for modern textile production."
As the global demand for sustainable textiles grows, Yawer believes that natural dyes will become more economically feasible. "The perception that natural dyes are costly stems from our inability to scale production," he explains. "Once we achieve economies of scale, the costs will align with those of synthetic dyes."
The future of natural dyes looks promising, especially with increasing regulatory pressures in regions like Europe. As bans on harmful chemicals loom, the textile industry is poised for a shift towards safer, more sustainable practices. "Natural dyes have already passed various sustainability standards without modification," Yawer points out. "They are derived from nature, and nothing in our process harms the environment."
Yawer's vision extends beyond just creating a product; he aims to inspire a movement. "We need to educate consumers and manufacturers alike about the benefits of natural dyes," he asserts. "As awareness grows, so will the demand for sustainable options."
In the throbbing heart of Noida's India Expo Mart, the Garment Technology Expo (GTE) isn't just an event; it's a vibrant tapestry woven with the threads of the Indian textile industry's evolution. For 25 years, GTE, founded by IS Sahni in 2001, has served as a pivotal bridge, connecting manufacturers and exporters with the cutting-edge technology and machinery that fuels their businesses. Sahni, the founder director, reflects on a journey that mirrors the industry's own transformation, a journey he's not only witnessed but actively shaped.
Sahni's memories paint a stark contrast between then and now. He recalls a time when Indian manufacturers faced the daunting prospect of international travel – a pilgrimage to Europe, Japan, or China – simply to source the necessary tools of their trade. "The need to go abroad for sourcing has diminished," Sahni explains, a note of pride in his voice. "We have brought everything to their doorstep." This fundamental shift, facilitated by GTE, has leveled the playing field, empowering local manufacturers to access global innovations without the prohibitive costs and logistical challenges of overseas travel.
GTE's 25th anniversary isn't just a milestone; it's a celebration of innovation. Sahni emphasizes the expo's commitment to showcasing the latest advancements each year. "Every year we have been showing new technologies in the industry," he says, his enthusiasm palpable. "This year, we are particularly excited about the latest innovations." For manufacturers, GTE offers a unique opportunity to explore these cutting-edge solutions, directly impacting and enhancing their production capabilities.
Sahni's perspective on the Indian textile industry is one of unwavering optimism. "The Indian textile industry is always growing at a very rapid speed. There is no stopping with the new units in setup and the overall government support, the industry is growing tremendously," he affirms. This robust growth isn't confined to domestic markets. Sahni sees immense potential on the global stage. "We see a big future for export," he shares, highlighting the increasing competitiveness and global appeal of Indian textiles.
As a veteran and a driving force within the industry, Sahni's words carry considerable weight. Looking towards the future, he offers a simple yet powerful blessing to the next generation of textile professionals: "I can only convey my blessing to them for more business." His words encapsulate the spirit of GTE and the broader narrative of the Indian textile industry – a story of continuous growth, adaptation, and unwavering belief in the power of innovation.
As the world grapples with the environmental impact of fast fashion, India is emerging as a leader in sustainable textiles, weaving together innovation, tradition, and environmental consciousness.
The seeds of change, organic cotton farming
The journey towards sustainable textiles begins at the farm. India, the world's largest cotton producer, has seen a rise in organic cotton farming. Farmers are adopting eco-friendly practices, shunning synthetic pesticides and fertilizers that harm the environment. Farmers who switched to organic cotton say it is not just about protecting the environment; it's about empowering farmers. The initial investment is high, but the long-term benefits are more as yields improve, they get better prices. As per Textile Exchange, India has the largest area under organic cotton cultivation in the world. Indian organic cotton is gaining recognition for its superior fiber quality, contributing to stronger and more durable fabrics.
The rise of recycled fibers
India is also making significant strides in recycled fiber production. Textile waste, frequently ending up in landfills, is now recognized as a valuable resource. Innovative technologies are employed to recycle and repurpose textile waste into new fibers, diminishing the need for virgin resources.
Manufacturers are innovating in yarn production, incorporating recycled fibers into blended yarns to create unique and sustainable textiles. Reliance Industries has invested in recycled polyester production. Their R|Elan initiative uses recycled PET bottles to create sustainable polyester fibers. This not only reduces plastic waste but also provides a more sustainable alternative to virgin polyester.
Water conservations in production
The textile industry is notorious for its high water consumption. However, Indian textile manufacturers are adopting water conservation measures. These involve investing in water-efficient technologies, reusing wastewater, and implementing rainwater harvesting systems.
Mills are investing in a zero-liquid discharge plant that recycles wastewater. This reduces environmental footprint and operating costs. Fabric producers are exploring with new dyeing and finishing techniques that minimize water usage. The Indian Textile Industry Confederation is promoting water conservation best practices and has set a target to reduce consumption by 50 per cent by 2030.
Waste management in apparel manufacturing
Textile waste is a major environmental challenge and Indian companies are discovering innovative ways to manage it. Some are implementing zero-waste policies, while others are upcycling textile waste into new products.
Waste management is an integral part of sustainability strategy, say fashion designers who utilizes upcycled textiles in their creations. They collect textile scraps from factories and tailors and transform them into unique and fashionable garments. This reduces waste and creates employment opportunities for local communities. Also, the Central Pollution Control Board (CPCB) has issued guidelines for textile waste management, encouraging companies to adopt sustainable practices and minimize their environmental impact.
Closing the loop in the textile industry
The circular economy entails designing products for durability, reuse, and recyclability, and creating closed-loop systems where resources are kept in use for as long as possible. Several companies are leading the way in adopting circular economy principles by investing in technologies that enable textile-to-textile recycling, developing closed-loop supply chains. Shahi Exports, India's largest apparel exporter, has implemented a comprehensive sustainability program that includes organic cotton farming, recycled fiber production, water conservation, and waste management. Similarly, Arvind Mills has invested in waterless dyeing and ozone washing to reduce its environmental impact.
The impact on communities
The sustainable textile revolution also impacts local communities. Many initiatives are creating employment opportunities, particularly for women and marginalized groups. For example, sustainable textiles are empowering rural women to learn new skills. The Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), a global alliance of brands, retailers, and manufacturers, is working with Indian companies to promote sustainable practices and improve workers livelihoods. The Textile Exchange, highlights India's leading role in organic cotton production, "India's significant organic cotton acreage is a testament to the country's commitment to sustainable agriculture.”
However, traceability in complex supply chains, ensuring fair labor practices, scaling up sustainable technologies, and educating consumers are areas that require continued attention. "The minute we turn something into 40 forms, too much paperwork, we lose the energy,” opines Christine Rai, Triburg India Inc. These challenges also present opportunities. By addressing various issues effectively, India can strengthen its position as a global leader in sustainable textiles.
The global textile and apparel industry is a massive market, estimated at over $1.5 trillion. For decades, China has been the dominant player, but rising labor costs and geopolitical tensions are prompting many brands to look for alternative sourcing destinations. India, with its rich history in textiles, diverse raw material availability, and a large pool of skilled labor, is emerging as a strong contender to take the lead. Robert Antoshak, Partner, Gherzi Textile Organisation says, “India is a textile powerhouse with abundant raw materials, a skilled workforce, strong spinning, weaving capacity, diverse product range, competitive costs, government support, and a well-integrated supply chain."
Sectoral strengths
India's textile industry has strengths across the entire value chain.
Fibre: India is the world's largest producer of cotton and jute, and the second-largest producer of silk. It also has a growing presence in man-made fibres. As per the Ministry of Textiles, India's cotton production in the 2022-23 season was estimated at 34.34 million bales.
Yarn: India has a large spinning capacity, producing a variety of yarns for domestic and export markets. This gives it a competitive edge.
Fabrics: India produces a wide range of fabrics, from handloom to modern woven and knitted fabrics. The industry is known for its diverse designs and high-quality craftsmanship.
Apparel: The apparel sector caters to both domestic and international markets, from mass-produced garments to high-end fashion. It has a large pool of skilled tailors and garment workers. In FY23, apparel exports were $16 billion.
Positive government initiatives
The government has actively promoted the textile industry through various initiatives, such as the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme and Mega Investment Textiles Parks (MITRA). The PLI scheme offers financial incentives to manufacturers for increasing production, while MITRA parks provide state-of-the-art infrastructure and support facilities to attract investment.
"The government's focus on infrastructure development and ease of doing business has created a favorable environment for textile manufacturers," says Sanjay Jain, President of the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI). "The PLI scheme and MITRA parks are game-changers that will help us compete with China and Bangladesh."
The government is also investing in training programs to enhance textile workers skill. The recent Economic Survey has highlighted the need for technological advancements and skill development to transform India into a global textile powerhouse. It highlighted challenges like limited FDI in the sector and a reliance on imported machinery. The Survey includes recommendations for addressing these challenges, such as attracting more FDI, promoting R&D, and supporting the modernization of existing units.
Diverse mix of raw materials
India is one of the world's largest producers of cotton, silk, and man-made fibers. This gives manufacturers a competitive advantage in terms of cost and quality. India is self-sufficient in most raw materials, which reduces our dependence on imports. The cost advantage allows India to offer high-quality products to customers.
Also, textile manufacturing capabilities have grown significantly in recent years, with investments in modern technology. The government is encouraging the adoption of sustainable manufacturing practices to reduce the industry's environmental footprint.
Despite its strengths, the Indian textile industry faces several challenges, including infrastructure bottlenecks, a fragmented industry structure, and competition from other low-cost countries. The government is working to address these challenges through various initiatives, such as improving connectivity, promoting consolidation, and providing export incentives.
However, India has the potential to become a dominant player in the global textile market. Ashish Jain, Dy Director General FIEO “The textile industry stands at a crossroads, with potential to become a leading global player. However, realizing this potential requires a concerted effort to overcome existing challenges and seize opportunities. As industry leaders call for a shift in mindset and strategy, the future of India's textile sector is promising, provided stakeholders are willing to act decisively and collaboratively. The journey to becoming a textile powerhouse is underway, and the world is watching.”
Green Story has partnered with Northumbria University's Impact+ Program to introduce a hybrid course on sustainability communication in India. Designed for marketing and ESG professionals in fashion and textiles, the program blends in-person workshops with virtual sessions to tackle evolving sustainability challenges.
Following the success of their webinar, Communicating Sustainability: Crafting Transparent, Compliant Messaging for a Competitive Edge, this initiative aims to refine sustainability messaging for brands navigating global regulations.
The course is led by sustainability communication experts Alana James and Anne Peirson-Smith, who bring extensive industry and academic expertise. Their guidance will help participants develop effective strategies, ensure compliance with frameworks like ESPR and CBAM, and craft transparent, compelling narratives that meet growing consumer and regulatory demands.
With sustainability transparency becoming a business imperative, this program offers hands-on learning tailored to India’s fashion sector. Attendees will gain insights into best practices, regulatory landscapes, and stakeholder engagement strategies.
Launching in March 2025, the course is designed for marketing leaders, ESG executives, and sustainability advocates seeking to elevate their impact. It provides a crucial opportunity to stay ahead in an industry increasingly shaped by ethical and environmental considerations.
The apparel and textile MSME sector plays a crucial role in India's economy, contributing significantly to employment and exports. The industry is projected to grow at a 10 per cent CAGR, reaching $350 billion by 2030, with exports estimated at $100 billion. However, rising competition, fast-fashion demands, and logistics costs are major challenges.
A survey by Borzo, a global same-day delivery company, across 15+ cities, highlights key industry trends. It found that 78.5 per cent of MSMEs sell apparel, 31 per cent focus on fabrics, and 7 per cent on home textiles. Logistics issues affect 40.5 per cent of businesses, while 32.5 per cent struggle with fast-fashion trends. Skilled labor shortages impact 30.5 per cent, and 23 per cent face rising operational costs.
Most MSMEs (70.5 per cent) operate on a B2C model, while 19.5 per cent balance B2C and B2B. The festive season boosts sales, with 36 per cent reporting a 20-30 per cent rise in orders and 24 per cent seeing over a 50 per cent increase. Logistics remains a critical concern, with 63.5 per cent citing high delivery costs as the biggest challenge, followed by delays (49 per cent) and limited delivery options (20 per cent). Same-day delivery is essential for 81 per cent of businesses, and 58 per cent prefer a 30-60-minute delivery window.
Sustainable packaging adoption is growing, with 70 per cent of MSMEs using eco-friendly materials. However, high costs remain a concern, driven by expensive raw materials (47 per cent) and processing costs (19 per cent). Looking ahead, 59.5 per cent expect sustainable fashion costs to decline, while 40.5 per cent are less optimistic.
Alina Kisina, CEO of Borzo, emphasized the need for improved logistics, cost efficiency, and sustainability to maintain competitiveness. The survey underscores the urgency for MSMEs to adapt swiftly to evolving market demands.
GHCL Textiles, a leading manufacturer of premium yarn and fabrics, is set to exhibit its latest innovations at Bharat Tex 2025 from February 14-17 at Bharat Mandapam, New Delhi. The company will display its diverse product range at Stall E19, Hall 1F, reinforcing its commitment to sustainability, advanced technology, and market excellence.
Legacy of excellence and sustainable growth
With a strong 95-year legacy, GHCL Textiles has established itself as a leader in the spinning industry. The company operates two state-of-the-art manufacturing units in Tamil Nadu, with a production capacity of 44,000 MTPA. Focused on cutting-edge technology and sustainable business practices, GHCL serves both domestic and international markets with high-quality yarns, including synthetic fibre, double yarn, open-end, and cotton yarn in counts ranging from Ne 24s to 120s. The company specializes in premium yarn varieties such as Giza, Supima, and Australian cotton, catering to evolving industry demands.
GHCL Textiles aligns with the Indian government’s vision for a robust textile ecosystem. Honourable Prime Minister Narendra Modi Ji inaugurated the first edition of Bharat Tex last year, emphasizing the 5F approach - Farm to Fibre to Factory to Fashion to Foreign, to strengthen India’s global position. GHCL supports this vision by integrating sustainable processes, investing in infrastructure, and ensuring quality-driven production to meet global standards.
Participation at Bharat Tex 2025
GHCL Textiles sees Bharat Tex 2025 as a key opportunity to connect with domestic and international buyers, industry veterans, and policymakers. Balakrishnan R, CEO of GHCL Textiles, stated, “We are excited to participate in Bharat Tex 2025, India’s largest global textile event. Our focus on innovation and sustainability, backed by integrity and reliability, ensures the highest customer satisfaction. The event will be a great platform to network, explore new market trends, and showcase our commitment to the future of textiles.”
Bharat Tex 2025 will feature over 5,000 exhibitors, 20,000+ exhibits, and 70 sessions covering eco-friendly practices, technical textiles, and ethical sourcing. The event will include exhibitions, B2B meetings, MoUs, product launches, and knowledge-sharing sessions, attracting top policymakers and global CEOs.
Established in 1927 as Sree Meenakshi Mills, GHCL Textiles has evolved into a forward-looking company that values innovation, sustainability, and workforce development. With a strong foundation and a vision for long-term growth, GHCL Textiles remains dedicated to strengthening India’s textile sector through continuous advancements in technology and sustainable manufacturing.
The British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) is alerting apparel brands, retailers, and suppliers about a major shift as the EU and UK officially ban fluorescent lighting from February 24, 2025. This phase-out, aimed at eliminating mercury-containing lamps, impacts designers, fabric manufacturers, and retail displays.
BTMA CEO Jason Kent explains that while mercury-based lamps were banned for general use in August 2023, an exemption for specialist applications, such as colour assessment, ends this month. The legislation is expected to be adopted globally.
This means specialist manufacturers, including VeriVide, will no longer sell new fluorescent-based light booths. Colour consistency across the textile supply chain is crucial, notes VeriVide Sales Director Adam Dakin, as fluorescent-based colour matching may appear different under LED store lighting, leading to costly returns and recalls.
VeriVide has spent a decade perfecting its all-LED UltraView technology, ensuring accurate digital colour assessments. The system, adopted by retailers like H&M, NEXT, and Marks & Spencer, replaces traditional fluorescent booths while improving energy efficiency and sustainability.
“We’ve future-proofed colour assessment with UltraView,” says Gary Timmons, fabric technologist at NEXT. VeriVide still holds replacement stock for existing fluorescent booths but urges a transition to UltraView.
Kent emphasizes that LEDs, being mercury-free and energy-efficient, are the ideal alternative. “With a complex supply chain, precision in lighting conditions is essential,” he says, urging the industry to adapt swiftly.
A new report by Fashion for Good and BCG highlights the urgent need for fashion brands to adopt next-generation materials, which could reshape the industry’s environmental impact and cost structure. Materials account for 92 per cent of fashion’s emissions and nearly 30 per cent of cost of goods sold (COGS).
While next-gen materials currently make up only 1 per cent of the fiber market, they could reach 8 per cent or 13 million tons by 2030. However, achieving this growth requires overcoming financial, technical, and operational barriers amid regulatory pressures, supply chain disruptions, and shifting consumer preferences.
The report, Scaling Next-Gen Materials in Fashion: An Executive Guide, outlines three key levers to accelerate adoption: demand, cost, and capital. Stable demand signals, demand pooling, and transition financing can ease adoption challenges. Cost engineering and supply chain optimization will make these materials more affordable.
Strategic financing, aligned with different adoption phases, is essential for long-term scaling. Brands that integrate next-gen materials into core strategies can reduce COGS by 4 per cent over five years, ensuring competitiveness in an evolving market.
Industry leaders stress the urgency of action. “Next-generation materials are no longer just an opportunity but a business imperative,” said Katrin Ley, managing director at Fashion for Good. BCG’s Sebastian Boger emphasized that scaling these materials is critical for staying relevant, while Catharina Martinez-Pardo noted that brands embedding them into their strategies now will lead the future of fashion.
The report calls for both individual brand efforts and industry-wide collaboration to drive adoption and secure long-term resilience.
The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) has signed Memoranda of Understanding (MoUs) with China Textile Academy (CTA) and ANTA Sports Products Group Co Ltd (ANTA) to advance textile innovation and industrial transformation.
The collaboration brings together Hong Kong and mainland China's expertise to accelerate technology transfer, commercialization, and sustainable development. CTA, a leading national research institute, will work with HKRITA to scale laboratory technologies into pilot tests and industry applications. Meanwhile, ANTA, a top sportswear brand, will focus on athlete-driven innovation and sustainable solutions to enhance product performance and competitiveness.
HKRITA CEO Jake Koh highlighted the strategic importance of these partnerships, stating, “R&D requires a multitude of brilliant ideas to succeed. These memoranda create a large pool of innovative exchanges between Hong Kong and the mainland, allowing us to tackle industry challenges and stay ahead of the competition.”
CTA General Manager Ma Yongmei emphasized the institute’s strong innovation chain, covering material development, fibre applications, equipment, and certification. “This collaboration will drive technological breakthroughs and accelerate the integration of R&D with industrialization,” she said.
ANTA Vice President Li Su echoed the excitement, stating, “We look forward to creating an innovation platform with HKRITA to enhance the sportswear industry’s value chain.”
The partnerships will focus on cutting-edge areas, including new fibre materials, functional textiles, smart manufacturing, and sustainable regenerated textiles. By combining research and industrial expertise, the initiatives aim to accelerate product development, strengthen market competitiveness, and promote eco-friendly practices.
