FW
The era of larger-than-life fashion designers such as John Galliano and Karl Lagerfeld may be coming to an end, as many brands are shifting towards a low-profile approach.
Recent controversies involving Balenciaga’s creative director, Demna Gvasalia, and rapper Kanye West have highlighted the risks of having a provocative figurehead. While Gvasalia has been credited with making Balenciaga one of the hottest brands, his edgy approach and celebrity friends have become a liability.
Many brands, including Louis Vuitton and Gucci, are moving away from the big-name designer model. The departure of Alessandro Michele from Gucci and the tragic death of Virgil Abloh from Louis Vuitton have meant that their studios are now in charge of design work.
According to fashion consultants, brand identity is no longer solely about the designer, and designers are seen as interpreters of brand identity. The shift towards a low-profile approach is reflected in the appointment of lesser-known designers at brands such as Hermes, Chanel, and Dior. The trend can be traced back to 2011 when Galliano was removed from Dior after making an anti-Semitic outburst. While brands want to sell products, they also need to entertain and ask questions, which require a little seduction and madness. It is a delicate balance, and the challenge for brands is to strike the right balance between being provocative and being commercially successful.
The US saw a decrease in the import of cotton products in 2022, measured in square meter equivalent, after reaching the highest level in a decade.
However, the International Trade Administration's Office of Textile and Apparels reported that the value of cotton products imports in 2022 was a record $57 billion, which was nearly $8 billion higher than the previous year. The increase in value was attributed to greater unit values and sustained demand from US consumers. Despite consumer inflation, purchases were supported by robust levels of consumer discretionary income, low unemployment, and higher wage growth, according to the United States Department of Agriculture.
China remained the largest supplier of cotton products for the 20th consecutive year, despite the Section 301 tariffs and the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act. Cotton's market share of total apparel imports fell to approximately 40 per cent, while man-made fibres including polyester, nylon, spandex, and acrylic tied its record for market share among all US apparel imports at nearly 60 per cent.
Global trade of cotton is forecasted to be down to 39.6 million bales, the lowest level in six years, mostly attributed to lower global consumption. Global ending stocks are forecast to be up to 91.1 million bales, with China's beginning and ending stocks being revised higher due to changes in consumption in 2021-22 and higher 2022-23 production. The US balance sheet is unchanged, and the projected US season-average farm price is also unchanged at 83 cents per pound.
STYLE Bangkok 2023, the event, which will take place from March 22 to 26 at the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center, aims to establish Thailand as a hub for lifestyle products and fashion in Asia.
This year's exhibition, which is expected to attract 30,000 attendees, will showcase 500 exhibitors and 1,000 booths featuring a variety of products such as furniture, gifts, home decorations, dining ware, kitchenware, toys, spa products, and fashion items.
Thailand's Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP) has partnered with the Board of Trade of Thailand to host STYLE Bangkok 2023. The organizers have rebranded the event to focus on the "STYLE solution," which aims to provide innovative solutions to consumers.
The event will feature several special activities, including showcasing the DITP's product development projects, seminars and trade information, and an Art Zone that includes lifestyle and creativity and exclusive installations. Business negotiations will take place from March 22 to 24, while retail sales will occur on March 25 and 26.
Small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) in the fashion and lifestyle industry play a significant role in driving the Thai economy, with more than 1 million workers employed in this sector. In 2022, exports of lifestyle and fashion goods grew by 16.5% year on year and were worth 450 billion baht.
Sustainability is at the forefront of the event, with the exhibition promoting environmentally responsible practices under the concept of "Sustainability."
Pakistan’s leading fashion brand, GulAhmed, has opened its first retail outlet, Ideas by GulAhmed in the UAE, marking its foray into the international market.
The company launched its maiden fashion retail store at City Centre Sharjah to introduce multiple brands, including GulAhmed, Kaaj ready-to-wear, Ideas Home, Ideas Fragrances, Ideas Pret, Ideas Man, Ideas Kids and more.
Dubai was selected to make forays into the international market because of its strong economy, excellent infrastructure, and cosmopolitan culture. GulAhmed Group has chosen the UAE to strengthen its brand presence in the Middle East and North African markets by establishing its base in the emirate.
The GulAhmed Group plans to open two more outlets of Ideas by GulAhmed in Dubai, before exploring Saudi Arabia and other markets in the region. GulAhmed Group is confident of the promising outlook with its foray into the international market this year.
The Karachi-based diversified business conglomerate began trading in textiles in the early 1900s, later expanding into energy, chemical, retail and information technology.
The textile market share is expected to grow with a CAGR of 3.77 per cent in the forecast period between 2022-2032, according to a recent market study by Fact MR
The global textile market is highly competitive, with a few key players dominating the market. Asia-Pacific, particularly China and India, dominates the global textile market due to low labor costs and access to raw materials. However, North America and Europe also have significant market shares due to strong manufacturing capabilities and high demand for premium products.
Product innovation is a key driver of competitiveness in the textile market, with companies investing in research and development to develop sustainable materials, improve production processes, and enhance product quality.
The textile market is a vital industry and is driven by consumer demand for new and innovative products, as well as the need for sustainable and environmentally-friendly materials and production methods. The textile market is highly competitive, and companies are constantly seeking new ways to differentiate their products and attract customers.
The emergence of digital technologies and e-commerce has transformed the way consumers shop for textiles, leading to increased competition and disruption across the industry. The market is also subject to various global trends and economic factors, including shifts in consumer preferences and fluctuations in raw material prices.
Bangladesh's apparel exports to the European Union (EU) increased by 14.29 per cent during the first eight months of fiscal year 2022-23, reaching $15.72 billion compared to $13.75 billion during the same period in FY22, according to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB).
Germany, the largest market in the EU, reported a negative growth rate of 1.03% with $4.62 billion in apparel imports. On the other hand, France and Spain showed an increase in apparel imports from Bangladesh by 27.65 per cent ($1.89 billion) and 18.79 per cent ($2.35 billion), respectively. In contrast, Bulgaria and Poland experienced negative growth rates of 51.21 per cent and 15.06 per cent year-on-year in apparel imports.
During this period, Bangldesh’s exports to the US decreased by 2.87 per cent year-on-year, but apparel exports to Canada and the UK saw a positive growth rate of 20.05 per cent and 14.52 per cent year-on-year, respectively.
Bangladesh's apparel exports to the US, the UK, and Canada during the first eight months of FY23 were $5.68 billion, $3.36 billion, and $980 million, respectively.
Meanwhile, apparel exports to non-traditional markets increased by 35.02 per cent to $5.69 billion, with Japan, Australia, India, and South Korea being the major non-traditional markets, reaching $1.07 billion, $767.75 million, $753.92 million, and $387.63 million, respectively.
Global lingerie market is expected to grow at a CAGR of 6.7% between 2023 and 2031, as per Transparency Market Research report. The global lingerie market was valued at US$ 96.3 Bn in 2022 and is projected to reach US$ 171.3 Bn by the end of 2031.
The lingerie market, now also considered as an important fashion accessories has witnessed significant growth in the past few years due to the increase in popularity of western clothing in the women's category, and the rise in acceptance of various body types.
The rise in demand for comfortable innerwear among women and the increase in demand from online sales channels are anticipated to accelerate market expansion. The rapid growth of the innerwear apparel industry is projected to increase market size. The report also indicates that the availability of various lingerie types across all online and offline stores worldwide is likely to bolster market expansion in the next few years.
Europe held the largest market share in 2022 due to the presence of the largest fashion industry and an increase in people's income in the region. The rise in working women's population and presence of high fashion interests among them are projected to bolster the market in the region during the forecast period. South America, Asia Pacific, and Middle East & Africa are anticipated to generate notable revenue during the forecast period due to improving economic conditions, rise in the number of women workers in different fields, and improving fashion industry.
Increase in women's employment is also a key driver for the growth of the lingerie market. Rapid economic growth in several parts of the world has propelled the participation of women in multiple businesses, especially in developing countries such as China and India.
In the past 30 years, the global supply chains have been instrumental in providing women with a gateway into the formal workforce. This has created remarkable opportunities for women to enhance their skills, augment their earnings and improve their living standards.
Despite the fact that the global supply chains have played a significant role in empowering women, particularly in the garment industry, there are still significant deficits in decent work, which exist in other areas of the labor market, such as discrimination, violence, and harassment.
As per ILO, garment industry, if it adopts more equitable policies and takes action, it could help millions of workers rise above poverty and foster inclusive economic growth.
Lenzing’s Tencel brand and RCGD Global, formerly known as Red Carpet Green Dress, have teamed up for the fourth year running to highlight eco-couture at the Oscars.
Sustainble Oscar occasion wear
Bailey Bass and Chloe East wore bespoke sustainable occasion wear made from Tencel branded fibres and Tencel LUXE filament yarn. The gowns were created in accordance with this year’s Oscars sustainable style guide, produced by RCGD Global. The aim is to promote sustainable materials and their positive impact on the environment in the fashion industry.
Harold Weghorst, global vice president of marketing and branding at Lenzing AG, said he hoped that “by giving sustainable materials a greater representation at the Oscars, we can draw attention to the need to lower the environmental impact of the fashion industry”. Meanwhile, Suzy Amis Cameron, founder of RCGD Global, said that working with Tencel allowed the organisation “to discover what sustainability means to them and how they want to represent the message on the Red Carpet”.
Bailey Bass wore a custom-made, cream-coloured halter gown made by New York-based designer Zac Posen using four cuts of fabric made from 100% Tencel LUXE filament yarn. The gown has an open-back design with an off-the-shoulder cuffed poet sleeves. Chloe East wore a custom Monique Lhuillier gown, with an A-line ball gown skirt and a black statement bow with sweeping ties made using Tencel Lyocell fibres. Both Tencel LUXE filament yarn and Tencel Lyocell fibres are fully biodegradable and compostable, having been derived from sustainable wood sources and produced using eco-responsible production processes.
Co-creating digital to physical
This year Tencel and RCGD Global worked with Web3 innovators institute of Digital Fashion and CLO Virtual Fashion to create a bespoke digital version of Zac Posen’s gown for Bailey Bass, highlighting the potential for digital design technologies to address the environmental issues associated with physical fashion and event dressing.
Swiss textile manufacturer Schoeller Textil AG has launched its latest sustainable textile collection, RE-SOURCE, at this year’s Performance Days textile fair in Munich.
The company's latest recycled textile collection is part of its comprehensive brand strategy, which focuses on creating holistic added value for the wearer, brand, and nature.
Sustainability and performance have been core brand principles for Schoeller Textil AG for over 150 years, and the RE-SOURCE collection aims to create a symbiosis of the highest quality, design, and current sustainability standards for consumers. The collection is made from bio-based, post- and pre-consumer materials such as recycled polyester and spandex and is equipped with Schoeller textile technologies to offer breathability, thermal regulation, wind and water resistance.
The RE-SOURCE collection also includes two textile innovations that have been lined with natural NATIVA merino wool, which is produced under the highest sustainability standards. The entire production process of NATIVA merino wool is 100% transparent and traceable for consumers using blockchain technology, meeting strict social and ecological requirements for animal welfare, land management, and ethical labor guidelines.
RE-SOURCE textile innovations are bluesign approved – the international standard for responsible and sustainable textile production.
