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CHIC Paris showcases innovation at Who's Next
The Chinese fashion industry made a significant impact this September at two major European fashion events, spotlighting the creativity and innovation of top Chinese designers. From September 8-10, the second presentation of Chinese designers was hosted at the prestigious Who's Next trade fair in Paris under the CHIC Paris initiative, which featured the ‘Fashion China Pavilion.’ The event gathered 16 renowned Chinese designers, including brands like Lancy, VanSunsun, and Typetail, who showcased collections distinguished by unique aesthetics, cutting-edge materials, and sustainable production methods.
Located in Hall 7 at Port de Versailles, the Fashion China Pavilion welcomed buyers from around the world in an open-concept peach-colored booth. The layout drew in an international audience and encouraged engagement, as visitors experienced Chinese fashion creativity up close. The showcase drew enthusiastic feedback, with many buyers noting the collections’ craftsmanship and appeal, as well as orders like 1,000 items from William Zhang's Trui Berra brand. The event also saw valuable feedback sessions on local market adaptations, pricing, and brand positioning.
This year's collaboration between Who's Next and CHIC holds special significance, marking the 60th anniversary of diplomatic relations between China and France. Frederic Maus, CEO of Who’s Next, highlighted the fair’s commitment to bridging French and Chinese fashion industries, reinforcing cultural and business exchanges. Plans for future collaboration with the French Fashion and Apparel Industry Union (UFIMH) aim to further strengthen these ties. The Fashion China Pavilion concluded with a reception at the Balcony Paris showroom in Marais, where designers continued building international networks.
Moda Chinalaunches at TheOne Milano
Following the Paris event, from September 14-17, Chinese companies made their debut at Milan’s TheOne Milano trade fair. Through the China National Garment Association, 25 leading brands specializing in exclusive menswear, womenswear, and casualwear took center stage. Chinese companies captivated attendees with high-quality designs that demonstrated both creativity and global competitiveness.
Chinese brands at TheOne Milano emphasized market exploration and product launches. Standing out for their contemporary designs, these companies received considerable attention from trade visitors eager to experience Chinese fashion. The event yielded promising sales, as exemplified by Dingding Cap Industries, which secured a 3,000-cap order from a major Turkish retailer.
Bridging cultures and elevating Chinese fashion globally
Both Who's Next and TheOne Milano underscored the increasing global presence of Chinese fashion, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern trends. With positive reception and strong sales, these events have bolstered the profile of Chinese designers and manufacturers on the international stage.
The next chapter for Chinese fashion in Europe will unfold at PittiUomo in Florence from January 14-17, 2025, where more Chinese designers are expected to continue this momentum, shaping the future of global fashion.
The 17th edition of the Bangladesh Denim Expo concluded successfully at Dhaka’s International Convention City, Bashundhara. Hosted by the Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE), the two-day event drew over 5,543 attendees from 56 countries and featured 45 exhibitors from seven nations showcasing cutting-edge denim products, fabrics, accessories, chemicals, and production technologies. This year’s theme, ‘A Blue New World,’ underscored the importance of eco-friendly practices and responsible sourcing in Bangladesh’s journey toward sustainable innovation in fashion.
Driving sustainability in denim manufacturing
As Bangladesh moves toward sustainable fashion, the Expo provided a platform for industry leaders to discuss and embrace environmentally friendly practices. ‘A Blue New World’ highlighted the critical role of ethical responsibility and quality as Bangladesh strives to enhance its image in the global denim market. Exhibitors and participants were inspired to adopt practices that ensure the sustainability of both production and supply chains.
The event featured two influential panel discussions addressing Bangladesh’s path forward in the global ready-made garment (RMG) sector. The first panel focused on strategic actions necessary for Bangladesh’s RMG sector to transition from a low-cost production hub to a leader in sustainable, high-value apparel by 2030. Industry experts discussed the need for innovation, infrastructure upgrades, and a stronger emphasis on labor standards, all crucial for securing Bangladesh’s position in the global market.
The second panel discussion centered on Bangladesh’s anticipated graduation from its least developed country (LDC) status by 2029 and the critical need to maintain EU market access by adhering to GSP+ requirements. Panelists explored essential adaptations, with a focus on enhancing labor rights, improving environmental standards, and promoting transparency within the industry to ensure compliance and market competitiveness.
Expert insights on compliance, innovation, and labor rights
Throughout the event, experts from various fields shared insights on Bangladesh’s challenges and opportunities in the evolving apparel sector. M Riaz Hamidullah, Additional Foreign Secretary, highlighted the importance of labor rights, inclusion, and transparency in meeting global expectations. Mostafa Abid Khan from the Support for Sustainable Graduation Project emphasized the country’s reliance on the garment sector and noted the EU’s support if compliance standards are maintained. Edwin Koekkoek, representing the EU Delegation to Bangladesh, discussed the role of due diligence in promoting sustainability, with a focus on labor and environmental standards as well as decarbonization efforts.
Mohammad Sohel Sadat, Chairman of Shin Shin Group, stressed the need for continuous improvements in labor conditions and the importance of collaboration among customers, brands, and stakeholders to showcase social sustainability efforts in Bangladesh. Ole Rosenborg Justesen, Sector Counsellor from the Danish Embassy, highlighted the importance of investments in labor law, inspections, and supply chain infrastructure to improve working conditions in factories. Mustafizur Rahman, a Distinguished Fellow at CPD, urged brands and buyers to support local entrepreneurs through technology transfer and compliance enhancements, pointing out that compliance has become the new standard in the industry.
Shah Rayeed Chowdhury, Director at Evince Group, emphasized the importance of maintaining strong relationships with buyers and investing in team-building efforts to remain competitive. He highlighted the value of a ‘man behind the machine’ approach, which combines automation with human expertise to ensure sustainable business growth. Ziaur Rahman, Regional Manager at H&M, noted that while Bangladesh’s RMG sector has grown significantly over four decades, there is still work to be done to raise awareness about labor laws and due diligence standards among suppliers. He emphasized the need to build on foundational compliance practices.
A global meeting point for the denim industry
The Expo’s impressive turnout solidified its reputation as a key event for the global denim community, fostering collaboration and innovation. As Bangladesh aims to lead in sustainable, high-value apparel, the 17th Bangladesh Denim Expo has laid the groundwork for a brighter, greener future in fashion.
Often seen as eco-friendly alternatives to conventional plastics, bio-based materials may actually pose a greater risk to some key species than the plastics they are designed to replace, says a new study published in Environmental Science and Technology. Commonly found in textiles, clothing, wet wipes, and period products, these materials shed microfibers into the environment during laundering, the application of sewage sludge as fertilisers, and general wear and tea.
According to this study, in high concentrations, polyester fibers caused a 30 per cent mortality rate among earthworms after 72 hours, whereas bio-based fibers led to even higher death rates, with lyocell killing up to 60 per cent and viscose up to 80 per cent of earthworms. In another experiment simulating real-world fiber concentrations, soils containing viscose fibers hindered earthworm reproduction, while lyocell fibers led to reduced growth and greater burrowing activity.
Led by researchers from the University of Plymouth and the University of Bath as part of the Bio-Plastic-Risk project, this study emphasises the importance of extensive testing before the wide adoption of alternatives to plastics. Dr Winnie Courtene-Jones, Lead Author and Lecturer- Marine Pollution, Bangor University, emphasises, the study highlights the adverse effects of bio-based fibers on earthworms, which are critical to the environment’s functioning. It also emphasises on the importance of gathering further evidence before the adoption of various new alternatives to conventional plastics.
This research follows earlier findings published in 2024, which revealed that earthworms exposed to materials in biodegradable teabags experienced higher mortality rates and reproductive challenges.
Professor Richard Thompson, Head, International Marine Litter Research Unit, University of Plymouth notes, reducing plastic pollution requires not only recycling and re-use but also careful consideration of alternative materials. While addressing the plastic crisis, it is important to gather independent scientific evidence, he adds.
Global Sourcing Expo in Melbourne will spotlight strategies to reduce Scope 3 emissions, indirect emissions across the supply chain,which are critical to sustainability in the fashion industry. These emissions, comprising around 95 percent of apparel retailers' carbon footprint, have become a focal point as the industry confronts its environmental impact. Addressing these Scope 3 emissions is increasingly recognized as essential for meaningful progress toward sustainability.
The Expo's seminar series will feature a keynote by Liam Salter, Founder and CEO of Reset Carbon, a leading consultancy in carbon management. Salter, who has guided brands like Walmart, Nike, and Ralph Lauren through carbon-reduction initiatives, will deliver a session titled ‘Net Zero and scope 3 GHG emissions – How to get started and deliver results.’ This marks his first Australian speaking engagement, providing insights into practical decarbonisation strategies for the fashion sector.
Reset Carbon, headquartered in Hong Kong, operates across the Asia-Pacific region, assisting companies in creating comprehensive carbon-reduction frameworks. Its recent partnership with Beyond Sustainable Retail Group aims to bring these solutions to Australian and New Zealand retailers, with a strong focus on collaborative supplier engagement and sustainable practices.
Rick Lambell, CEO of Beyond Sustainable Retail Group, will moderate the session, offering his expertise in local retail sustainability efforts. The discussion will emphasize setting science-based targets, aligning procurement practices with emissions goals, and building strong supplier partnerships to achieve decarbonisation.
The seminar will be held on November 21. For fashion and textile businesses committed to significant climate action, this session provides a roadmap to effectively tackle Scope 3 emissions and advance towards Net Zero targets.
Building on last year’s strong 9-10 per cent rebound, revenues from India’s home textile industry are set to grow by 6-8 percent this fiscal, says the latest CRISIL Ratings’ report.
Most of this growth will be fueled by steady demand from the US, the industry’s largest export market, and an expanding domestic market, despite lingering logistical issues, the report adds.
CRISIL Ratings’ analysis of 40 key companies, representing 40-45 percent of the industry’s revenue, indicates, the credit profiles of home textile companies will remain stable due to healthy cash flows and modest capital expenditure plans, supported by reduced debt levels. Exports make up 70-75 percent of the industry’s revenue, with the US accounting for 60 percent, while the domestic market contributes the remaining 25-30 percent.
Mohit Makhija, Senior Director, CRISIL Ratings, highlights three main factors behind this growth: resilient consumer spending and normalised inventory levels at major US retailers boosting exports; an ongoing expansion of domestic market presence; and stable domestic cotton prices remaining near international levels, which will keep Indian companies competitive. India’s share in US home textile imports will stabilise at around 30 per cent, as seen from Jan-Aug’24, notes Makhija.
From June-Sep’24, international cotton prices dropped below domestic prices cotton supply from Brazil and the US increased. However, with the onset of India’s cotton season, the gap is expected to close, preserving India’s export competitiveness. Operating margins willremain steady at 14-15 percent this fiscal as most exports operate on a free-on-board basis, minimising the impact of freight cost volatility, states the report.
The industry invested approximately Rs 8,500 crore in capacity expansion from 2019 to 2024, with capacity utilisation expected to stabilise at 60-70 percent this fiscal. Most companies aim to optimiseutilisation this year, with a few large players planning capital expenditure on debt-free balance sheets.
Pranav Shandil, Associate Director, CRISIL Ratings, avers, steady performance and moderate capital expenditure will likely maintain interest coverage for these companies at 5-6 times, while strong cash accruals will maintain total liabilities-to-net-worth ratio low at 0.6-0.7 times this fiscal.
Any significant slowdown in the US or a sharp increase in domestic cotton prices could impact the industry’s growth, warns the report.
ARISE IIP, in partnership with Afrexim bank and Swiss textile machinery leader Rieter, has introduced the Africa Textile Renaissance Plan, aiming to revitalize Africa’s textile industry. Signed framework agreement on October 14, 2024, the partnership framework seeks to transform 500,000 metric tons of African cotton into textiles over the next three to five years, backed by $5 billion in financing.
This plan intends to establish robust cotton transformation capacity across Africa, potentially expanding by an additional 500,000 metric tons. Key goals include creating 500,000 jobs, localizing textile machinery repair expertise, reducing Africa’s textile imports, and increasing exports, especially under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA).
Country selection will prioritize those with power and gas infrastructure, standard textile park facilities, or equity contributions. Selected countries will also receive training centers to boost skills for local industry growth.
Financing for textile projects will be streamlined, offering standardized loan documents, a fast-tracked two-month application process, and business plan templates. Rieter plans to develop a presence in Africa with facilities for repair and maintenance, spare parts warehousing, and potential machine assembly operations in ARISE’s Benin park.
ARISE CEO Gagan Gupta highlighted the initiative's transformative potential for job creation and sustainable textile production. Afrexim bank President Benedict Oramah called the plan a ‘game-changer’ for African trade, emphasizing the shift toward high-value exports and industrialization. Rieter CEO Thomas Oetterli expressed confidence that the partnership marks a pivotal step for Africa’s textile industry.
The global retail market is in constant flux, and the rise of e-commerce has reshaped how consumers shop. This has hit traditional brick-and-mortar stores hard, particularly in the fashion and apparel sector. As brands struggle to stay afloat, many are turning to online platforms as a potential lifeline. But is this digital pivot a viable solution or just a last-ditch effort to revive fading fortunes?
The digital exodus
For decades, brick-and-mortar stores dominated the fashion industry. Shoppers enjoyed the physical experience, instant gratification, and personalized service. However, the advent of e-commerce giants like Amazon, coupled with changing consumer habits, has disrupted this model. The advantages of online shopping are clear: convenience, wider selection, competitive pricing, and access to global markets. This has led to the decline of many traditional retailers.
A growing number of fashion brands are shuttering physical stores and migrating online, hoping to find a more sustainable model. This shift allows them to reduce overhead costs, reach a wider audience, and leverage data-driven insights to better understand customer behavior.
Forever 21 for example, the fast-fashion giant, once a mall staple, filed for bankruptcy in 2019. Forever 21 has since relaunched as an online-only retailer, partnering with e-commerce platform Global-e to manage its international online business. This move has allowed the brand to streamline operations and focus on its digital presence. Similarly J.Crew, also faced bankruptcy and opted for a digital-first approach. By investing in their online platform and optimizing their website for user experience, J.Crew aims to recapture its market share in the competitive online fashion space.
In fact, there are many success stories of digital brands. ASOS, the online-only fashion retailer has thrived in the digital age, catering to a young, tech-savvy demographic with its extensive selection, trend-driven styles, and user-friendly website. Boohoo Group, the fast-fashion giant, which owns brands like Boohoo, PrettyLittle Thing, and Nasty Gal, has built its success on a purely online model, leveraging social media marketing and influencer collaborations to reach its target audience.
Uncertainties of the shift
While the transition to e-commerce offers potential benefits, it's not without its challenges. Brands need to invest in robust online platforms, effective digital marketing strategies, and seamless logistics to compete in the crowded online marketplace.
The online fashion sector is fiercely competitive, with established players like Amazon and ASOS dominating the market. And some brands built on a strong physical presence may struggle to translate their brand identity and customer experience online. Then there is the whole new aspect of returns and logistics. Handling returns efficiently and cost-effectively is crucial for online fashion retailers. Replicating the in-store experience online can be difficult, particularly for brands that rely on personalized service and tactile product interaction.
Navigating the shift
Even established giants like Macy's and Bed Bath & Beyond are grappling with the shift to e-commerce. Take Macy’s for example, the department store chain has been actively pursuing an omnichannel strategy, combining its physical stores with a robust online presence. It has invested in improving its website, enhancing its mobile app, and offering services like in-store pickup and curb side delivery. While Macy's continues to face challenges, its digital efforts have shown some positive results. However, there is the example of Bed Bath & Beyond which despite attempts to boost its online presence and optimize supply chain, ultimately succumbed to bankruptcy. This highlights the fact that e-commerce is not a magic bullet; brands need a comprehensive strategy that addresses underlying issues like product assortment, pricing, and brand relevance.
Indeed e-commerce offers a potential lifeline for struggling fashion brands, it is surely not a guaranteed solution. Success in the digital space requires a well-planned strategy, significant investment, and a deep understanding of the online consumer. Brands that can adapt to the changing retail landscape, embrace technology, and offer a compelling online experience have the best chance of survival and even revival.
Currently under threat due to growing industrialisation and rising urbanisation, India’s handloom industry needs to be protected urgently, said Shivanand Patil, Textile Minister at the inauguration of the Haathkarga Handloom Fair at the Institute of Engineers. The event aimed to celebrate the cultural heritage of handloom weaving besides recognizing weavers’ dedication to their trade despite significant challenges.
Acknowledging the essential role of handloom weavers and artisans in preserving India’s artistic legacy, Patil noted, the intricate creations of these weavers have greatly enriched Indian culture. He urged people to support the industry by choosing handloom products. The state government too has provided funds worth Rs 31 lakh to 44 to the handloom weavers' cooperative societies under the Mitavyaya Nidhi Yojana for 2024-2025, besides funds worth Rs 54 lakh to 15 societies under a 20 per cent concession scheme.
Under the Nekar SammanYojana, Rs 22 crore has been allocated to support 44,000 handloom weavers, each receiving Rs 5,000, while Rs 50 crore has been set aside for one lakh power loom weavers, Patil added.
The event was also attended by Varneet Negi, Managing Director, Karnataka Handloom Development Corporation, Ramanand Kulkarni Divisional Joint Director Ramanand Kulkarni, etc. Around 62 stalls showcased a range of handloom products and artisanal pieces at the exhibition with ten stalls reserved for artisans from other states.
To support local cotton farmers and ensure fair prices amid recent price declines, the District Agricultural Trade and Marketing Department has opened a new cotton procurement center in Saluru, Parvathipuram Manyam district, Andhra Pradesh.
This new buying center will provide a fair and reliable, ensuring farmers receive fair prices for their cotton, says I Gangadhar Rao, District Agricultural Trade & Marketing Officer. He also advised farmers to prevent unauthorised brokers from exploiting them.
This development brings relief to cotton growers troubled by fluctuating market prices. The new center will help stabilise cotton trade locally, reducing dependence on intermediaries.
Renovating its outlet in Central Phuket, fast fashion brand Zara has converted it into the brand’s first tech-forward concept store in Thailand.
Launched in 2011, the store has more than doubled in size, from 840 sq m to more than 1,700 sq m. It features a white minimalist interior design and features technology tools that allow customers to integrate online and physical store platforms.
The store is a part of the brand’s global rollout of its new concept that aims to provide customers with a more spacious, innovative, and sustainable shopping experience. The Inditex-owned brand unveiled its first tech-forward concept store in Madrid, Spain in 2022. Focusing primarily on technology tools, the concept allows consumers to browse the store of their choice online, check available stock, shop online, and pick up their products in just two hours.
The concept also promotes store sustainability by using eco-friendly products and some of the most advanced environmental eco-efficient systems.
Zara has also launched this store concept in the US, India, and Portugal.
