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Denim Première Vision celebrated 10 years in Paris last week with numerous exhibitors that reflected the show’s fashion status. Besides showcasing key fashion statements for Spring/Summer ’19, it also served as a platform for the denim supply chain to share new concepts including sustainability, technology and performance fabrics. The influence of the Alliance for Responsible Denim (ARD) was evident at Denim Première Vision. Kilim Denim, Orta Anadolu and Tavex were among the ARD members offering post-consumer recycled denim fabrics for Spring/Summer ’19 at the trade show.
ARD addressed two sustainable topics: Improving the environmental impact of denim finishing and developing a preferred industry buying standard, business model and roadmap for the introduction and scaling up of post-consumer recycled denim production. ARD sees post-consumer recycled denim as a fabric/product with a minimum content of 5 per cent post-consumer fibres, meaning at least 5 per cent of fibre comes from pre-used jeans. The ARD urges brands and mills to use post-consumer recycled denim to reduce their dependency on virgin materials and drive impact savings across all areas from electricity to water.
“Every year we make about 2 billion pairs of jeans and every pair uses 3,500 to 7,000 litres of water to produce,” said Helene Smits of ARD. As per Levi’s lifecycle assessment for jeans, about 68 per cent of water is used to cultivate cotton alone. The Alliance for Responsible Denim believes that by eliminating the cultivation process and including 20 per cent recycled content into jeans, brands can save about 500 litres of water per jeans. ARD is made up of key stakeholders and experts from the denim industry, including brands such as Mud Jeans, Nudie Jeans, G-Star, Chasin, American Toyda Kuyichi and Imps & Elfs.
Sustainability comes at premium cost. The mills did not disclose the price of their fabrics, but post-consumer recycled denim is not a cheap fabric. A price premium comes with most recycled products; however, more innovation, experience and scale can reduce prices in the future.
ITMA 2019 will be held from June 20 to 26 June at Fira de Barcelona, Gran Via venue. It will showcase latest technologies and sustainable solutions for the entire textile and garment manufacturing value chain in 19 chapters. Besides machinery, exhibits will also include fibres, yarns and fabrics, as well as leasing and finance services. Underscoring its commitment to innovation, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers (CEMATEX) will continue to promote excellence in research and development at ITMA 2019. The CEMATEX Research & Innovation Grant will help defray participation cost of eligible educational and research organisations at the Research & Innovation (R&I) Pavilion by at least 50 per cent.
Fritz P. Mayer, President, CEMATEX which owns the ITMA exhibition, says, “Innovation has always been key to the global competitiveness and sustainability of textile and garment makers. Research and development plays a critical role to help the industry develop new competitive advantages.” He added, "ITMA is an ideal platform to foster collaboration among researchers, businesses and investors. An ITMA 2015 survey revealed over 90 per cent of the R&I exhibitors were able to establish new business relations and open up new markets.”
The R&I Pavilion will showcase cutting-edge textile and related research and development projects and encourage collaboration among companies, research centres and universities to develop novel materials and technologies to transform the textile, garment and fashion industry. The R&I Pavilion also provides an excellent platform for participating institutes and guest industry speakers to share their latest knowledge and projects at the Speakers Platform.
The Speakers Platform offers an additional channel to raise awareness of research projects and facilitate knowledge transfer. The Speakers Platform at the R&I Pavilion will feature 20-minute presentations based on following topics: Raw materials and manufacturing technology; Automation and digitalisation: Creating new opportunities in the textile and fashion industry;
Technical textile innovations and manufacturing technology; and Sustainable textile and garment manufacturing in the circular economy.
The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has put forward a proposal to the Bangladesh government to alter labour laws and establish ‘wage boards’ to bring in a minimum monthly wage for workers in the country’s ready-made garment (RMG) segment. Workers’ rights in the country has been a topic of debate as the complex situation in post-Rana Plaza Bangladesh continues to divide opinion.
Post Accord’s extension until 2021 the question of workplace safety has been widely discussed including the fact that many units claim to adhere to guidelines and also claim to be investing in factory/safety programmes, however, people in the industry and employees are wondering when wage board for apparel workers will be implemented. Siddiqur Rahman, President, BGMEA, says despite adverse situation the sector is currently undergoing, a minimum wage board for re-fixing wages of garment workers in line with the provision of the labour law need to be made.
Wage boards have been implemented in the past. The first minimum wage was established in 1994 when the rate was Tk 940; in 2006 it was Tk 1,662.50; in 2010 it was Tk 3,000; in December 2013 it fixed the minimum wages for garment workers at Tk 5,300. President of the Bangladesh National Garments Workers Employees League (BNGWEL), Sirajul Islam Rony, had stared earlier, given the huge increase in cost of living for workers in the past five years – wages of RMG sector workers should double. BGMEA’s detractors feel the motive of this move is a desire to improve the image of the Bangladeshi garment sector worldwide to enable the country to enhance sales in this segment.
The (AGAM), a business network and advocacy organization for the Ghanaian apparel business was launched in Accra on November, 16, 2017. The event, attended by key players in the apparel industry, was held under the theme: Spurring the Growth of Garment Industry for Sustainable Jobs. AGAM expects to see an increase in workforce from 2,000 to 20,000 by 2018.
AGAM president Gregory Kankoh explained the main aim of establishing the association was to facilitate advocacy with key stakeholders and address challenges confronting the industry and further help members to build a strong network to share ideas and build partnerships to enhance business. “Our members have been confronted with a number of challenges such as accessing service factory space, finding skilled labour, funding and market opportunities. Coming together as an association will give us a strong collective positioning to find solutions to our problems” he said.
The association seeks to ensure members adopt global best practices and innovations in the apparel industry to make Ghana the preferred apparel manufacturing hub in Africa. Some other benefits expected to be gained from the association includes enhancing the export of garments from the country to generate foreign exchange for Ghana, industry upgrading and enhancing tax contribution for national development.
Ghana’s competitive position and hospitable business environment makes the country a prime choice for investors and businesses looking to expand. The Association, the largest in the country, exports clothes worth over $12 million every year and employs over 2,000 workers. It has the potential of growing its workforce to 20,000 by December 2018.
"In order to strengthen its position in the fabric sector, the promoters of Donear Group have acquired OCM Woolen Mills. This acquisition makes Donear India’s largest branded menswear fabric manufacturer. OCM manufactures premium range of high-quality all-wool and wool-blended worsted suiting fabrics. Donear will be able to expand its range of products for all weather conditions and for all occasions. In a win-win deal, OCM will get access to the management expertise of the promoters of Donear Group to expand its product range and distribution footprint within India and overseas markets."
In order to strengthen its position in the fabric sector, the promoters of Donear Group have acquired OCM Woolen Mills. This acquisition makes Donear India’s largest branded menswear fabric manufacturer. OCM manufactures premium range of high-quality all-wool and wool-blended worsted suiting fabrics. Donear will be able to expand its range of products for all weather conditions and for all occasions. In a win-win deal, OCM will get access to the management expertise of the promoters of Donear Group to expand its product range and distribution footprint within India and overseas markets. The distributors of OCM, who generally witness lower sales during non-winter seasons, will be able to sell an additional range of products, especially Giza, Supima, wrinkle-resistant cotton fabric for jackets, trousers etc., and Terry Rayon fabric for suit length.
Rajendra Agarwal, Promoter, Donear Group explains, “Donear Group started its major take-off in 1994 from Amritsar. OCM is India’s best-quality manufacturer of woolen and worsted fabrics, and thanks to their skilled manpower for ensuring the best quality of fabric. OCM’s tweed suiting material is extremely popular for blazer and jacket fabric across India. No other manufacturer in India has been able to match the quality of OCM blazer and jacket of tweed fabric till date. We have charted out ambitious and aggressive plans to promote the OCM brand.”
OCM’s strong heritage
OCM (formerly known as OCM India Limited) began its journey as a textile manufacturer in 1924 and forayed into worsted fabric in 1972. It has a sprawling 37-acre complex that houses an ultramodern plant with 23,000 spindles, 120 high-speed shuttles-less looms, and a woolen processing unit, with a weaving capacity of 25,000 mt. of fabric per day and an employee base of 900. OCM is the first integrated worsted woolen fabric manufacturing unit in India with the prestigious ISO 9001 certification. It is also the first Indian textile company to receive the NABL accreditation in accordance with international standard ISO 17025:2005 for its in-house Quality Assurance Laboratory.
Originally a part of SK Birla Group (Birla VXL), OCM was acquired by private equity funds managed by WL Ross & Co. LLC in 2006. Since then, OCM has undergone extensive transformation across manufacturing, product development to revitalise its brand and strengthen its business. OCM’s product design function is at the forefront of global styling with a design office in Biella, Italy. Due to its superior product quality, institutional customers such as hospitals, airline and hospitality companies, schools and government undertakings consider OCM as their preferred supplier of worsted fabric.
The acquisition
OCM Woolen Mills is the second major acquisition by the Donear Group after it acquired GBTL (formerly known as Grasim Bhiwani Textile), the PV suiting fabrics business in July this year. Like GBTL, OCM Woolen Mills will continue to operate as an independent unit, manufacturing woolen fabric products under the guidance of the Donear Group management. There will not be any change in the day-to-day management or existing policies at OCM. Post-acquisition, all entities will continue to focus on their respective brands as separate teams and the management will continue its efforts to strengthen and utilise their competencies to serve their customers.
Today, OCM offers an extensive product range under the following brands: Ferrara, an Italian luxury for the discerning buyer of premium suiting and jacketing fabrics. It is made from the blends of cashmere, mohair, silk, rose and milk fibres. OCM Style, a vast spectrum of offerings with wool & wool-blended fabrics that balance affordability, latest trends, and a high style quotient. Siena, a trendy, youthful range, in vibrant colors which drapes well, is breathable and lightweight while Bold is reflective of contemporary global styling. The ready-to-wear jackets, sweaters, shirts, and T-shirts are the best choice for modern, young Indian man. Savannah offers a new wave of ethnic fusion fashion with a remarkable freshness to meet the taste of the modern Indian woman.
"When it comes to luxury & fashion, people only project London and Paris as the ultimate destination. But the scenario is changing with a host of young designers ready to bring glory to Eastern European culture on the global canvas. It all started in 2014, when Magda Butrym, a young Warsaw-based stylist-turned-fashion designer, debuted a 35-piece collection of floral print dresses and blouses, finished with cutaway detailing and hints of leather and hand crochet."
When it comes to luxury & fashion, people only project London and Paris as the ultimate destination. But the scenario is changing with a host of young designers ready to bring glory to Eastern European culture on the global canvas. It all started in 2014, when Magda Butrym, a young Warsaw-based stylist-turned-fashion designer, debuted a 35-piece collection of floral print dresses and blouses, finished with cutaway detailing and hints of leather and hand crochet. She always wanted to launch a label that was distinctly and proudly Polish. Before starting her own label, she had worked in a number of small design businesses in Warsaw.
Historically, Poland and other Eastern European countries such as Hungary and Romania, have never been considered high-fashion destinations. Yet close ties exist for decades, with factories across the region quietly producing garments and accessories for Western European luxury houses from Louis Vuitton to Hugo Boss. Now, a new generation of luxury entrepreneurs is building businesses that take advantage of that craftsmanship.
Emerging Eastern Europe
In Hungary, contemporary women’s wear brand Aeron was founded in 2012 by Eszter Aron, its head designer, and three friends, with Vivien Laszloffy joining the business as chief executive in 2015. The label's philosophy is to be a brand that people will recognise and know is from Budapest, in the same way people look at Acne and know it's from Sweden. The brand gained initial success from Asia where there’s quite a demand for their clothing. More than 60 per cent of its sales now come from the region: In Japan, Aeron is stocked in major department store Isetan and fashion chain Tomorrowland, as well as in a string of boutiques across South Korea, China and Hong Kong.
Proximity to workshops and factories also prompted Alexandru Adam, a Romanian footwear designer, to move to Bucharest after studying in London at Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art and designing shoes for Vivienne Westwood, a British fashion label. After introducing his own accessories and quality casual label called Metis in 2016, Adam initially intended to divide his time between the two cities. But after Britain's vote to leave the European Union, he was prompted to think again.
According to him, most of his designer friends who have their own brands are considering alternative options for when the UK will be out of the EU. Everyone produces outside of the UK and most of the materials come from the EU anyway, from suppliers in France, Belgium, Italy and Romania. Really, it just didn't make financial sense for them to keep their company in London anymore.
Across the Black Sea from Romania lies Georgia, another former Soviet republic. The fashion and arts scene of Tbilisi, its capital city, has caught the fashion industry’s eye, in large part because of Demna Gvasalia, Founder of cult street-wear label Vetements and creative director of Balenciaga.
N-Duo-Concept, the brainchild of Nina Tsilosani and Natuka Karkashadze, a former fashion writer for publications such as Elle Ukraine and Harper's Bazaar Kazakhstan, started life in 2014 as an e-commerce website championing lesser-known brands. A year later, they unveiled a clothing line under the same name and with a similarly offbeat aesthetic, produced in Tbilisi and stocked in a number of foreign boutiques.
Victoria's Secret is trying to revamp how it sells panties as the company posted its second straight quarter of declines in its panties business. First it was bras. Now Wall Street is worried about the panties at Victoria’s Secret. The lingerie seller, which has struggled to pull out of a sales slump, just posted its second straight quarter of declines in its panties business. Before the latest downturn, the category hadn’t suffered a drop since 2009, when the recession hurt demand for high-end underwear.
L Brands, which owns Victoria’s Secret and the Bath & Body Work chain, is trying to revamp how it sells panties. Previously, underwear was used as a promotion to get shoppers into stores, where they would then buy more expensive items like push-up bras or sportswear.
Shares of L Brands, fell as much as 5.3 per cent to $46.65 in New York, the biggest drop intraday in almost two months. The stock had already plunged 25 per cent this year through the close of trading. Retailers have struggled with growing competition this year, especially in the apparel category, as shoppers migrate to e-commerce and jump from one fashion trend to another faster than ever, often leaving companies flat-footed. L Brands has now reported flat or declining same-store sales for four consecutive quarters.
TexSelect is the new name for Texprint. The name change is in response to the fact that, since its beginnings in 1972, Texprint has expanded its reach considerably. As well as print there are sections for weave, knit, pattern, color, interiors, designs with merino wool, and the advent of mixed media. To reflect on this change, a name to represent a wider range of high quality, creative textiles and a more diverse selection base was picked.
This organization gives UK textile designers mentoring and career support. Run as a charity by professionals in the industry, it relies on support from industry and institutions, some of the connections being longstanding, involving internationally renowned names and brands, charitable institutions, Premiere Vision, Woolmark and textile associations and major retailers.
The aim is to encourage originality, artistry and skills in textile design, always with a commercial edge. Over the years, centers of excellence have linked with Texprint, like the silk industry in Como, Italy. TexSelect’s unique set-up will build on an enormous amount of goodwill, ranging from the textile and fashion practitioners and experts who started it, to alumni press partners and now large numbers of followers on social media notably Instagram.
This year saw another year’s set of intriguing and exciting designs, using skills and techniques such as hand-dyeing, screen prints and embellishment. They could serve as a paradigm for what Texprint has become.
The power loom weaving sector in the country's largest man-made fabric (MMF) centre in the city witnessed around 50,000 workers becoming jobless in the last two months, the power loom weaving leaders claimed.
50,000 workers were rendered jobless because more than 80,000 power loom machines had to be scrapped and over 50,000 units shut in the last couple of months due to the implementation of Goods and Services Tax (GST) in the country.
Industry leaders stated that majority of weavers moving out of the business are those who were doing job work for the master weavers for the last many years. The master weavers are not ready to bear 5 per cent GST on job work and have stopped giving work to weavers. On the other hand, there are many weavers who have taken GST registration, but the unregistered textile traders want the weavers to supply grey fabrics without bill.
Federation of Gujarat Weavers Association president Ashok Jirawala says that a detailed report on GST impact on power loom weaving sector has been prepared and as of now 50,000 workers have been rendered jobless and 80,000 machines sold in scrap.
Gap posted third-quarter earnings that topped analysts’ estimates as comparable sales grew at both the flagship brand, the first time in 15 quarters. Gap’s value-focused brand Old Navy is fuelling investor optimism that the retailer still has a place in shoppers’ hearts and wallets heading into the all-important holiday season.
The largest US apparel-retailer posted third-quarter earnings that topped analysts’ estimates as comparable sales a key measure grew at both Gap and Old Navy its discount brand. This is the first time in 15 quarters that the company’s namesake brand has posted positive same-store sales.
The results show some apparel chains may be bucking the downward trend permeating the mall. The retailer is focusing a lot on Old Navy and Athleta brands as consumers have shifted their preferences toward lower-priced and athletic apparel. In the meantime, Gap is shutting stores and cutting costs.
