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Researchers at the University of California, Berkeley are striving to make the process of making blue jeans greener by engineering bacteria to produce the indigo dye responsible for jeans’ characteristic hue. John Dueber, a professor of bioengineering who co-led the research, recently published in the journal Nature Chemical Biology informs, “Indigo dying for denim is unfortunately a pretty dirty process.” The vast majority of jeans are dyed with synthetically produced indigo which is similar to the colour of the dye extracted from the Indigofera plant.
However, synthesising indigo dye requires a number of toxic chemicals, including formaldehyde, the dying process also follows suit. This creates a hydra headed monster which create enormous amount of pollution. In some parts of the world, ‘denim blue rivers’ contaminate and kill fish and affecting the health of the rivers/workers/residents. With production of over 40,000 tons of indigo each year, this is a major issue.
John and his team wanted to create an indigo that requires fewer chemicals to synthesise and doesn’t need to have as many chemicals added to it during the dying process. “In order to do that, we took inspiration from how plants actually naturally synthesise indigo,” he revealed. The team engineered a strain of E. coli bacteria to become a chemical factory and produce an indigo precursor. The precursor is stable and can be stored and used as and when needed.
Unlike traditional synthetic indigo, which requires chemical treatment to reduce and solubilise the indigo so it can crystalize in the cotton fibre, the E. coli-produced precursor only needs the addition of an enzyme. The final result is identical to traditional synthetic indigo dying, John disclosed. “We feel pretty confident that we could scale the process to larger volumes,” Dueber says. “But there’s always work to be done going from the lab scale to an industrial scale.”
Some eco-minded manufacturers are returning to natural indigo dye, which needs fewer chemicals but has not been used due to cost and scale constrains. In Tennessee, a company called Stony Creek Colors is encouraging farmers to grow indigo instead of tobacco, in hopes of a natural indigo revival.
"Retailers need to give an ever-increasing thrust on product development, differentiation and value addition, to break the cycle of low margins and costs, and the associated problems with it, finds a recent report by Kurt Salmon Associates, ‘From cost focus to true value creation’. Heavy discounts, markdowns plague the retail industry today, and the industry needs to focus on product, supply chain, quality, instead of always looking for the lowest cost producer."
Retailers need to give an ever-increasing thrust on product development, differentiation and value addition, to break the cycle of low margins and costs, and the associated problems with it, finds a recent report by Kurt Salmon Associates, ‘From cost focus to true value creation’. Heavy discounts, markdowns plague the retail industry today, and the industry needs to focus on product, supply chain, quality, instead of always looking for the lowest cost producer.
Product innovation
In markets with an abundance of brands and less and less differentiating products, product development and sourcing capabilities move back into the strategic focus of fashion retailers. It's the key enabler for differentiation in the competitive environment. Access to deep technical expertise and unique handwriting of product groups that are critical for brand building as well as curated supplier portfolios with the true ability to drive innovation, evolve to an indispensable asset to drive top line as well as markdown and margin performance.
Time to market
Speed of trends and innovation has tremendously increased over recent years and consumers are adopting market impulses from option leaders, celebrities, and bloggers at high pace. This requires being closer to consumer needs with critical seasonal milestones on concept, design, and development for adoption of trend impulses as well as buying decisions to ensure market right products and quantities. Sourcing plays a critical role in enabling differentiated seasonal calendars based on individual product needs and a balanced mix of near shore and Far East sourcing destinations.
Demand and supply responsiveness
A significant part of end-of-seasons stock and related markdowns stems from buying and production volumes being insufficiently aligned with actual consumer demand on the shop floor and online during full price selling period. Leading retailers and brands currently make significant investments to drive end-to-end planning integration along the value chain across retail, product merchandising, material management, and sourcing/production. Main objective is to act vertical while typically not owning the different stages of the value chain down to production.
Differentiated supplier capabilities must be leveraged and developed in close collaboration along the entire value chain, from planning, through design and development, material management, costing, down to logistics. Intensified collaboration will also mean more common standards, definitions and KPIs. An integrated cloud-based database provides end-to-end transparency and control, internally as well as with third party suppliers. Furthermore, it allows a dynamic access to big data across the entire value chain and enhances predictive analytics for an improved merchandise planning, production capacity planning. etc. In re-shaping the fashion value chain, technology will prove to be the key enabler to provide the tools for analytical optimisation. Data transparency and the smart application of Artificial Intelligence will give retailers and brands the power to drive true value.
Product quality and sustainability
Product quality compliance and unified standards, e.g., with regards to fit and construction, are gaining increasing significance with online growth being unbroken. Returns from mismatch of expectations with regard to quality, size, and fit are a significant cost position, which is difficult to effectively avoid without aiming for these root causes. While this usually means not choosing the short term minimal cost option, these levers have strong power to drive better sell-through rates, stock turns and a reduction of leftovers hence, positively impacting markdowns and ultimately improving gross margin. This certainly compensates for higher production cost, and this does not even account for the top line sales potential from brand uniqueness and better differentiation vs. competitive offerings.
Sourcing portfolio optimisation
The shift from one sourcing country to another won’t be a long-term answer, as almost all current sourcing countries are getting more and more expensive. Looking at current markdowns of often 15-25 per cent of net sales this is a very powerful source of gross margin improvement. Each percentage point of markdown reduction immediately translates into an equivalent in realised margin.
Ministry of Commerce and Industry records show that import of yarn, fabrics and made-up articles in December 2017 went up by 20 per cent as against the corresponding month of ’16, however, apparel exports fell by 0.3 per cent between April and Dec. 2017 and 8 per cent in December. Sanjay Jain, Chairman, Confederation of Indian Textile Industry, was concerned over the issue as export data of Bangladesh showed India imported garments worth $111.3 million during July-December 2017 from Bangladesh, which was 66 per cent higher when compared to the same period of previous year. Imports of knitted apparel from Bangladesh were valued at $20.6 million in July-December 2016 and rose to $36.5 million between July-December last year. Despite the fact that total export of textile and apparel rose 2 per cent between April and December 2017 over the first nine months of 2016-17, apparel exports dropped by 0.3 per cent during the same period and 8 per cent in December.
A top garment exporter blamed the decline in exports to the revision of duty drawback rates, “Once an international buyer enters into a contract with an Indian supplier, the rates are fixed and might only go down in the future, however, cotton and yarn prices are going up in the domestic market. Further, the government has reduced the duty drawback rates. After GST, we do not know yet what refund we will get on duties paid on exports.”
Jain is of the view there is a need to impose safeguards such as Rules of Origin, Yarn Forward and Fabric Forward rules on nations such as Bangladesh and Sri Lanka that had free trade agreements with India and China. “Garment manufacturers in India have to pay duty on imported fabrics, while Bangladesh can import fabric from China duty-free, convert it into garments, and sell to India duty-free,” he said in a statement.
The wool market has been fighting a losing battle following downward spiralling of demand post infiltration of high-tech fabrics in the outerwear market for many years. In fact, Australia, growers have increasingly chosen to use their land more profitably. A new light on the horizon has risen hopes Australian wool ‘manufacturers’ as new markets have emerged from nascent cocoon that has helped enhance —Australian Wool Innovation (AWI), the marketing arm for wool growers — consumer use of wool. New styles such as Adidas AGs Ultra Boost, Allbirds and athleisure lines have helped wool footwear grow in women’s fashion footwear category in Fall 2018. Bayton, Dr. Scholl’s, Seychelles and Timberland are some of the other brands adding wool uppers to their fashion collection.
AWIs monthly ‘Market Intelligence Report’ notes, “Demand has been driving the wool market. More consumers across the world are looking for wool and not just in cooler months. The advent of merino wool as a superior fibre worn next to skin for leisure and for sport has seen steady growth in recent years. Global companies such as Adidas, Nike and New Balance all use merino wool in their ranges now and this is trend can also be seen in outdoor companies such as Mountain Designs and The North Face over the past decade.”
AWI assessed wool continues to defend its traditional markets in men’s suiting and women’s fashion, “a market where wool had lost significant ground in recent decades.” Increased affluence in traditional markets such as China and growing demand for wool in athleisure wear together with limited supply to create a “perfect storm” for wool, says AWI, which represents 24,000 growers in the country that supplies roughly 90 per cent of the world’s apparel wool.
A new feature at this edition of Texworld USA is the ‘Explore the Floor’ series which features tours for participants to walk the show floor with industry experts. The aim of these tours is to permit participants to gain knowledge of different exhibitors that are relevant to what they need and be able to ask questions in an open format.
Texworld USA, which is being held from January 22 to 24, simultaneously with Apparel Sourcing USA at the Jacob K Javits Convention Center in New York, also offers three days of seminars and speaker line ups on trending industry topics including sustainability, Spring/Summer 2019 colour, fabric trends, and more. ‘Textile Talks’ returns with three days of discussions organised by StartUp Fashion and Lenzing Fibers Inc. Texworld USA’s trend showcase will take place for the Winter 2018 season. It is created by Texworld USA Art Directors Louis Gerin and Gregory Lamaud.
Highlights from the Texworld USA seminars include a session ‘Fashion 101: How to Start a Fashion Line,’ by Mercedes Gonzalez, Founder and Director of Global Purchasing Companies. A seminar dedicated to ‘Supply Chain Traceability & Transparency + Explore’ will be held by Jeff Wilson, Senior Business Development Manager of sustainability at NSF International. Other speakers will be Edward Hertzman, Founder and Chief Executive of Sourcing Journal; Leonardo Bonanni, Founder and Chief Executive of Sourcemap; and Megan Meiklejohn, Sustainable Materials and Transparency Manager for Eileen Fisher Inc. ‘Spring/Summer ’19 Trends for Women’s & Junior Markets’ will be presented by Trend Council. The importance of a circular economy for the future of fashion will also be discussed.
Siddiqur Rahman, President-Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), says the RMG sector in Bangladesh is facing a hard time but the picture will change soon and the situation will improve gradually. Rising production costs, lower prices from buyers and decreasing international demand have resulted in the readymade garment sector not being able to meet expected growth targets. BGMEA says the cost of production has increased nearly 18 per cent since the last two years.
During this period, the prices of two markets in Europe and the US fell by around 7 per cent. Last year, clothing prices in the EU fell by 4.77 per cent, and in the US, 3.71 per cent. A recent study by the World Trade Organisation (WTO) reports global apparel consumption has slowed down in the last two years. The global market for garment products came down to $444 billion in 2016, from $450 billion in 2015, while consumption in the US decreased by 5.23 per cent.
Although consumption and prices are on the decline, Bangladesh is seeing an increase in the cost of production, for which the mid-range entrepreneurs are just able to sustain operations, smaller players are beginning to shut down operations. Industry insiders say the cost of electricity increased around 15 per cent, gas price 7.44 per cent last year and the cost of clearing and forwarding (C & F) has risen about 40 per cent.
Numerous apparel traders have appealed to the government to improve transportation facilities, including improvement of sea port facilities to reduce production costs. They claim they often lose export orders from buyers as they cannot supply on time due to transportation issues. Sources within the BGMEA reveal they have cancelled membership of 550 factories due to lack of regular production after 2013. Besides, some 500 factory owners listed with the BGMEA or BKMEA have shut down their factories for not being able to keep pace with income and expenditure.
Lamb Knitting Machine, a knitting machinery manufacturer based in Chicopee, MA, is celebrating 150 years of making knitting machines this month. The company says, “A reputation for manufacturing dependable machines, providing timely and effective service to the customer and staying in tune with the needs of customer have been keys to the company’s success. Lamb is only one of two companies that still manufactures knitting machines in the US and is one of the few in the world that is focused on knitting machines to produce materials ranging in size from .050” diameter to 4-inches wide. The experience gained through the years in designing and manufacturing these types of machines and the dedication to producing a quality product has resulted in the world-wide reputation Lamb machines have for dependability,” it added.
In 1893, the company merged with A.G. Spaulding and changed its name to Lamb Manufacturing Company. In the 1870’s Lamb also manufactured the Tuttle Sock Knitter, a hand-cranked machine that was used in many homes to knit socks and caps. A limited number of the original Tuttle machines are still in use today by home knitters and hobbyists. To celebrate its anniversary, the company began manufacturing a limited number of the re-designed version of the Tuttle Sock Knitter: The Lamb LT150.
The current owners, Andrew & William Giokas joined Lamb in the 1970’s. In addition to modernising the manufacturing process, they have developed the new Lamb knitting machines. Up to 1970, Lamb machines were primarily used to knit materials for the apparel and home furnishing industries using cotton, polyester and other man-made traditional yarns. Then, applications for small diameter circular knits were created that used wire, fiberglass and other new type of fibres. Lamb modified its machines so that these new fibres could be knit productively. Products knit on Lamb machines can be found in automobiles, furnaces, household appliances and in other industrial products.
In the past 10 years, new applications for small diameter circular knits have been created. Small diameter knits are now used not only in medical devices such as catheters but to knit items that are implanted into the body, such as stents and arterial grafts. These knits range in size from 1mm to 18mm and use cylinders with needle densities ranging from 30 to 65 needles per inch. Lamb has coupled its experience in manufacturing small diameter knitting machines and researching new manufacturing techniques to develop the machines required to knit these materials.
Grasim Industries has received permission for expanding production of manmade fibre VSF at Bharuch, Gujarat that would entail an investment of Rs 2,560 crore. Grasim will undertake the proposed expansion within the existing plant premise spread over 222.63 hectare area at Vilayat. The company has four VSF (Viscose Staple Fibre) plants in India, of which two are located in Gujarat, one each in Kharach and Vilayat in Bharuch district.
In a letter issued to the Grasim Industries, the Union environment ministry has stated that it has given the environment clearance to the company's proposal on expansion of Vilayat unit subject to compliance of certain conditions. The company's proposal is to increase the production capacity of VSF from 1,27,750 tonnes per annum (TPA) to Rs 2,55,500 TPA. It also wants to set up a production facility of Solvent Spun Cellulosic Fibre with a capacity of 36,500 TPA.
The project cost is estimated at Rs 2,560 crore and will create about 2,500 jobs, according to the letter. In its proposal, the Aditya Birla Group firm has mentioned the proposed expansion in VSF production capacity will cater the increased demand of manmade fibres in the country. VSF will have better growth due to perfect fit for the higher growing categories in apparel retail segments like women and kids wear.
A four-day trade show on garment accessories and packaging industries will begin in Dhaka from Wednesday. Bangladesh Garments Accessories and Packaging Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGAPMEA) in association with ASK Trade and Exhibitions and Zakaria Trade and Fair International will organise the ninth edition of the show Gapexpo 2018 at International Convention City Bashundhara.
Nearly 450 exhibitors from 24 countries, will showcase their apparel manufacturing technology, yarn and fabrics and garment accessories and packaging, printing technology and machinery. Finance Minister AMA Muhith will inaugurate the fair in presence of National Board of Revenue's Chairman Md Mosharraf Hossain Bhuiyan.
Two other events Garmentech Bangladesh 2018, an apparel machinery and allied products tradeshow, and the ninth edition of the International Yarn and Fabrics Sourcing Fair—will also start at the same venue and at the same time. Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed will hand over export trophies given by the association, in the fourth day of the fair.
The digital textile printing market is expected to grow at an impressive CAGR of over 18 per cent internationally till 2021. International Expo Consults (IEC), part of Falak Holding, has identified textile printing, digital signage and LED as the sectors to watch out for in 2018.
Sign & Graphic Imaging Dubai 2018 (SGI Dubai 2018), the Middle East’s largest printing, signage and graphic industry show, which held from January 14 to 16, caters to the needs of exhibitors and visitors in the LED and textile printing industries besides signage, outdoor media, screen and digital printing industries.
Sharif Rahman, CEO, International Expo Consults, organiser of SGI Dubai 2018, expounds, “Some of the highlighted areas at the show to be considered are heat transfer technology, décor printing, digital textile printing, fabric printing and wall graphic, among others.” Regarding the textile and clothing market, Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA) has a dominating position worldwide and thus gathers the largest share in the global digital textile printing market.
UAEs textile market is the second largest trading market, after oil, and is expected to further grow from 2017-21 due to the lower cost of raw materials. The high speed growth in textile market is expected to grow the digital textile printing market in the five-year period, the statement added.
The SGI Dubai 2018 show hosted several events during the three-days including ‘Knowledge Series’ – a panel discussion involving some of the biggest names in the regional market; ‘Wall of Fame’ – competition for the most creative artwork of 2017 and ‘Masters of Wrap’ – a car wrapping competition in collaboration with Avery Dennison and Strings International. The event welcomed over 300 global exhibitors from across 35 countries around the world. Thousands of people from over 70 countries have already visited the show, it stated.
