FW
"Over the past few seasons, there has been growing interest in black denim, from the trucker jackets to dresses and regular five-pocket jeans. The consumer today desires a garment that stays black even after multiple washes, providing that benefit of a lasting product. SuperCharged Noir collection strives to provide exactly this, ensuring that the supply chain passes this innovation to the retailers, the brands, and ultimately to the consumer."
Over the past few seasons, there has been growing interest in black denim, from the trucker jackets to dresses and regular five-pocket jeans. The consumer today desires a garment that stays black even after multiple washes, providing that benefit of a lasting product. SuperCharged Noir collection strives to provide exactly this, ensuring that the supply chain passes this innovation to the retailers, the brands, and ultimately to the consumer.
As a part of its ongoing partnership with Invista’s Cordura brand and Lenzing Tencel, Artistic Milliners debuted its latest denim collection SuperCharged Noir at Kingpins in Amsterdam, last month. The collection addresses the need for a long-lasting black color meanwhile while also reflecting on other trends such as softness and sustainability that the consumers are looking for today.
The panchtantra (five elements) influence
Created by implementing latest in smart and sustainable fibre technologies, the new SuperCharged Noir denim
collection with Cordura brand and Tencel fibres is inspired by five components, via its 5S technology: stay-true colour, enhanced strength, engineered soft comfort, sustainable innovation and performance stretch. The fabrics are designed to stand up to the challenges of an active lifestyle to combine durability and flexible comfort.
By incorporating latest state-of-the art Invista nylon 6,6 Black SDN fibre technology, the makers were able to add a new dimension in stay true colour and enhanced strength and abrasion resistance to the collection. The Tencel fibres and Artistic Milliners complement these attributes with added colour fastness, softness, sustainability and stretch. This collection provides durable fabric with added colour-fastness to help clothes look and stay newer longer. It is infused with colour-fastness locked in at the fibre level for excellent shade consistency and long-lasting vibrancy.
The SuperCharged Noir collection aims to reach both “fashion” and “workwear” brands, as well as kidswear designers, who are looking for a durable, comfortable and responsible denim product for their customers.
"Bangladesh export earnings from the US has been dipping at the rate 4.46 per cent to reach $5.07 billion in 2017 from $5.30bn a year ago, as reported by the data by OTEXA. Owing to this, its share in the US apparel market came down to 6.31 per cent from 6.58 per cent. While Vietnam registered over 7 per cent growth in the US apparel market, followed by Mexico at 5.33 per cent, India at 1.19 per cent, and Pakistan at 1 per cent in the same period. China, the largest exporter of apparel products, also saw a decline in export earnings as well as market share in the US. Rising labour costs in China and the country pushing towards service-based economy are some of the reasons behind its decreasing export share. However, with the ongoing trade war between China and the US, Bangladesh and Vietnam are the strong contenders to fill the gap."
Bangladesh export earnings from the US has been dipping at the rate 4.46 per cent to reach $5.07 billion in 2017 from $5.30bn a year ago, as reported by the data by OTEXA. Owing to this, its share in the US apparel market came down to 6.31 per cent from 6.58 per cent. While Vietnam registered over 7 per cent growth in the US apparel market, followed by Mexico at 5.33 per cent, India at 1.19 per cent, and Pakistan at 1 per cent in the same period. China, the largest exporter of apparel products, also saw a decline in export earnings as well as market share in the US. Rising labour costs in China and the country pushing towards service-based economy are some of the reasons behind its decreasing export share. However, with the ongoing trade war between China and the US, Bangladesh and Vietnam are the strong contenders to fill the gap.
Who would win ultimately?
Major comparative advantages of Bangladesh apparel industry are lower wages, high capacity suitable for large
volume orders, and lean manufacturing. Bangladesh has inherent supply of local cotton, yarns, and fabrics, even though it is not sufficient to cover the entire demand of the apparel export sector. The high dependence on importing most of cotton and fabric to sustain apparel manufacturing contributes to longer lead times. To add to the woes are the poor infrastructure, inefficient logistics, and unstable energy supply.
Vietnam on the other hand has much higher labour cost (twice or thrice of Bangladesh) but this disadvantage is nullified by higher productivity of skilled and better trained workers. Hence, Vietnam can produce intricate styles with agile and flexible manufacturing. Its infrastructure, logistics services and reliable energy supply are state-of-the-art, resulting in shorter lead times. However, Vietnam lacks in domestic raw materials and primarily relies on imported textiles. But Vietnam’s proximity to China makes transporting raw materials easier and convenient. In terms of product portfolio, Bangladesh has much less diversified product portfolio than its Vietnamese counterparts.
Of Bangladesh’s total exports, 79 per cent are concentrated in five basic products: trousers, T-shirts, sweaters, shirts, and jackets. In comparison, Vietnam has a more diversified product portfolio. 63.1 per cent of Vietnam’s apparel exports to the US comprise of these top 10 product categories: women’s knit shirts and blouses (MMF), women’s trousers (cotton), women’s knit shirts and blouses (cotton), women’s trousers (MMF), men’s knit shirts (cotton), dresses (MMF), men’s trousers (MMF), men’s knit shirts (MMF), men’s trousers (cotton), and women’s coats (MMF).
Playing it safe
Rather than banking on just one market, Vietnam has diversified its reach and because of that, despite the abandonment of the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) last year, Vietnam’s textile and garment industry exceeded its 2017 target of $30bn with an export turnover of over $31bn, registering an increase of 10.23 per cent from the prior year. While the US, EU, Japan, and South Korea maintained good growth, China, Russia, and Cambodia registered a strong export lead.
Vietnam has also invested big in the development of shuttle less looms and the biggest investor in ring spindles and open-end rotors, amongst the ASEAN countries. The lesson for Bangladesh is clear that one cannot compete on low-cost advantage alone. The country needs to move away from mass market commodities to higher value-added fashion goods or increase productivity. Its garment factories must re-engineer their operations to increase worker skills.
Embracing technology, up-skilling workforce to meet new technology needs, moving up the value chain in its product-portfolio from basic commodity to high end fashion, diversification of markets, developing a conducive climate for attracting foreign investment, improving ranking in the global competitive index on all pillars, developing our infrastructure, developing our own textile sector to reduce over-dependence on raw-materials and thus reduce lead times would all ensure that Bangladesh can retain its number two spot as the apparel exporter to the world.
"The ‘Pulse of the Fashion Industry’ report by Copenhagen-based Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) in partnership with Boston Consulting Group (BCG), reveals that textile/apparel is the world’s second most polluting industry after oil, and has ample room for improving its sustainability performance. The textile/apparel sector's overall score is low at 38/100. Big sportswear companies are well ahead of the pack with a score of 84/100. A performance explained by their sometimes troubled history in terms of the working conditions in some of their suppliers’ factories, as well as their efforts to deliver innovative products, which pushes them to tread new ground, in the fields of circular economy and recycled materials."
The ‘Pulse of the Fashion Industry’ report by Copenhagen-based Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) in partnership with Boston Consulting Group (BCG), reveals that textile/apparel is the world’s second most polluting industry after oil, and has ample room for improving its sustainability performance. The textile/apparel sector's overall score is low at 38/100. Big sportswear companies are well ahead of the pack with a score of 84/100. A performance explained by their sometimes troubled history in terms of the working conditions in some of their suppliers’ factories, as well as their efforts to deliver innovative products, which pushes them to tread new ground, in the fields of circular economy and recycled materials.
For the same reason, companies positioned at entry-level and generating more than €8 billion in annual revenue
have, on average, a score of 67/100. On the other hand, companies which generate less than €80 million in revenue posted the lowest scores: 20/100 on an average for entry-level segment, and 37/100 for the mid-price segment. The study observed mid-price players, by adopting solutions consistent with the size of their business, have managed to improve significantly. Only the luxury segment recorded the same score for great groups and smaller entities alike: 51/100.
The companies surveyed said they prioritise design and product development more than production processes and, above all, materials. The latter is a crucial area, where 89 per cent companies are keen to make further progress in the next few years. The study highlighted that, in order to respond to the market's and consumers’ expectations, short-term innovation in materials will be necessary to furnish new, industry-wide solutions.
Opting for a circular approach
Indeed, a few companies train their styling teams to adopt a circular approach, envisaging from the design phase how products can be recycled. However, the majority still has a long way to go. Workshops for garment repairs are also thriving. While the study pointed out improving recycling of discarded products will still need a few more years, the use of RFID tags carrying information on the exact composition of the product seems to be the best way to recycle it.
Analysts feel industry players will have to move forward collectively in order to truly step up to the next level. The main challenge identified by the ‘Pulse of the Fashion Industry’ report is that of leading as many companies as possible on the road towards ecological and social change. To make comfortable progress, companies need to implement a system for full supply chain traceability, improve the way they consume water, energy and chemicals, and uphold and/or demand compliance to standards in terms of working conditions. In second phase, they should be able to source a responsible mix of sustainable materials, introduce a circular approach to business, promote improvements in worker remuneration and finally tap the opportunities provided by the electronic and digital revolution. All of these changes (and investments) need to be incorporated in business strategies. The report suggests, companies which invest on environmental and social initiatives will earn themselves a ‘bonus’ in operating margin by 2030: rising to the new challenges will be worth the effort.
VF Corporation has appointed Travis Campbell the new Vice President, General Manager, The North Face®, Americas. Campbell was earlier engaged as the President of VF’s Smartwool brand. At The North Face®, he will provide leadership and vision for the brand’s American business by creating and executing growth strategies in sales, direct-to-consumer and merchandising. He will also play an important role in establishing the Americas Region Leadership Team and ensuring the successful regional activation of the global brand vision and strategy. Campbell will report to Arne Arens, Global President, The North Face®.
Prior to VF, Campbell was President & CEO of Far Bank Enterprises, an integrated manufacturer and distributor of fly fishing products and owner of the Sage, Redington, and RIO brands. In 2005, he became President of Rio Products International, Inc., and in 2003 he was named President of Redington Tackle & Apparel. Prior to these roles, Campbell served as Director of Business Development for Sage Manufacturing. He also held various positions at Deloitte Consulting and Andersen Consulting.
The Europe-India Chamber of Commerce (EICC) has joined hands with industry bodies representing the US, Canada and Japan to issue a Brexit plea to the UK to make urgent progress on the issue. The groups also include the American Chamber of Commerce to the EU, Canada Europe Roundtable for Business and Japan Business Council in Europe. They represent the interests of an array of international businesses who are heavily invested in both the European Union and the UK and warned that the clock was ticking towards the October deadline for Britain to strike a final withdrawal agreement with the EU.
In the lead up to the European Council summit in Brussels, they have urged policymakers to address issues around governance, regulatory cooperation and post-Brexit preparedness. They say reaching agreement on these issues will provide businesses with more confidence that a withdrawal agreement can be agreed and ratified, thereby providing legal certainty for the proposed transition period and avoiding the worst-case cliff-edge scenario in March 2019. While they recognise the complexity of finding a solution for the Irish border, they say the EU and UK must continue to try to find agreement on the issue that is seen as a stumbling block to an agreement.
Readymade garment manufacturers in Bangladesh have to pay a higher corporate tax. The tax rate has been raised from 12 to 15 per cent. However, certified green factory owners will enjoy a three per cent rebate and pay 12 per cent, while publicly traded readymade garment manufacturers will have to pay 12.5 per cent. At present a certified green factory pays ten per cent tax, which will be increased to 12 per cent.
The RMG industry in Bangladesh plays an important role in generating employment and fostering economic growth. In the budget the 100 per cent export-oriented textile industry gets duty exemptions on raw material imports. Exemption of import duty is proposed for textile raw materials such as flax fiber and flax tow.
Efforts are on to ensure congenial working environment in the readymade garment industry. Safety evaluation work has been completed in 3,780 factories. In addition, a public accessibility database has been prepared, containing information on 3,743 export-oriented readymade garment factories. Also creating a database with information on another 27,000 factories is under way.
About 65 Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED)-certified factories have been operating in Bangladesh. Among these, 13 have received platinum status, 20 gold status and 34 silver status.
Taiwan is planning to join CPTPP as soon as the agreement comes into force early next year. Canada this month introduced legislation to ratify the CPTPP. Japan and New Zealand are planning to complete the ratification process by the end of this year. Mexico has already ratified the agreement. The CPTPP will come into force once six countries have completed ratification.
As per John Deng, Taiwan’s trade negotiator and cabinet minister without portfolio, Taiwan would begin to be locked out of the network of trade agreements in the region, which could become a burden for Taiwanese companies and create export diversion. Regional trade pacts involving the Association of Southeast Asian Nations and the European Union’s trade deal with South Korea had already begun to be implemented. Taiwan was planning to continue market liberalisation on its own and touted increased transparency efforts including allowing foreign companies to comment on new regulations.
The Society of Dyers and Colorists (SDC) held a conference in Mumbai to discuss innovations in chemical compliance, certification, fashion and business in the textile supply chain. Over 200 delegates from process houses, brands, retailers, fashion and technical educational institutions participated.
Panel discussions focused on dyes and chemicals compliance, sustainable business strategies and ideas to support the textile computation industry. Stress was laid on innovations, ideas and projects that would help everyone involved in the textile supply chain to take a step forward in creating a greener and happier ecosystem for all its living beings.
A session highlighted the importance of color and helping brands in selecting the right color. The total appearance capture system consists of a camera that can scan the object from every angle, helping in visualizing the product. The Pantone cloud- its tools and concept of 3-D object making-- can reduce the cycle of prototype and sampling in garment industry that can help in reducing waste. For sustainable production 3-D object making can help in reducing the steps of making prototypes and waste of resources.
The conference was based on the theme of a circular economy. The textile industry is struggling to reduce its footprint and one of the promising pathways to this is to embrace the concept of the circular economy.
A port strike in Pakistan threatens to cause cancellation of vital export orders. Export orders running into huge amounts are at stake. Carriers and other freight-loaded ships anchored at the terminal have not been offloaded owing to the strike.
The industry has not been able to meet international commitments and failure to perform will lead to disputes, loss of valued customers, loss of market share as well as damaging Pakistan's reputation as a reliable supplier.
The strike comes at a moment when Pakistan’s industrial production and exports are registering a positive growth. Blockage of export goods would hurt the growth pace. Given the trade deficit and the national debt, the economy can hardly bear such delays in trade activities.
If the situation continues, the industry fears production activities will reduce further. The port strike is not only hurting shipments of export consignments but importers too. They are forced to pay demurrages for not clearing their consignments from the ports. Also industrial units are not receiving raw materials.
If the issue is not resolved, exporters fear facing huge financial losses and also losing their hard earned export contracts. Cancellation of vital export orders would in huge losses not only to exporters but also to the national exchequer.
Options System Limited (OSL) specialises in computer systems for the apparel, footwear and soft goods industries. Its Styleman and Styleprm systems are used by over 100 companies in 35 countries. OSL’s software improves speed in PLM. Styleman PLM software reduces the possibility of errors and drives the development schedule according to the desired timetable. Errors are reduced by both the factory and company looking at the same data, by the accuracy of the tech pack and by quality of feedback from sample fit sessions.
The company’s future plan is to tap into voice interface (Siri, Alexa, Google, etc.), which is gaining traction on home devices but has yet to make it into the office. Robot assembly is starting to make inroads into manufacturing, raising the possibility of micro-factories making to order.
One can visit a shop, browse some garments physically or virtually, adjust the coloring or pattern to suit tastes, and wait a few minutes while the garment is manufactured on the spot. This is more likely to happen in footwear first, since 3D fabric printing/knitting still has a way to go.
In the next 10 years, 3D printing may develop to a stage that it will disrupt e-commerce, allowing individual garment or footwear personalisation and printing at home.
