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India is on the cusp of a major breakthrough in the global textile industry, according to Robert Antoshak of Gherzi Textile Organization. Speaking exclusively to FashionatingWorld I DFU on the sidelines of Bharat Tex 2025, Antoshak (also known as Bob), a veteran observer of the Indian textile scene, expressed a bullish outlook on the country's potential. "Now is the time for India to really step up," he declared, emphasizing the convergence of favorable geopolitical winds and the industry's growing capabilities.
Antoshak highlighted India's strength in cotton production but stressed the importance of expanding its synthetic fiber base. He believes this diversification is crucial for producing the broader range of textile products needed to compete globally, particularly in performance fabrics. "India is second to none with cotton, that's not the issue. It's more in the synthetics, more in working with the performance fabrics," he explained. He noted a positive trend at Bharat Tex, suggesting increased focus on this area.
The changing geopolitical landscape, with India positioned favorably, presents a unique opportunity, Antoshak emphasized. "The geopolitics favor India at this point," he stated, adding that this creates a window for development. He urged the industry to "meet the opportunity" by investing, collaborating with international partners, and developing robust new supply chains.
Antoshak was highly impressed with Bharat Tex 2025, praising its comprehensive coverage of critical industry issues, from technology and sustainability to manufacturing improvements and design. "This show is frankly amongst the best in the world right now," he asserted, predicting it will become a leading global textile event. He commended the range of topics, speakers, and exhibitors, highlighting the show's value for the entire supply chain.
Offering advice to the Indian textile trade, Antoshak reiterated the urgency of the moment. He urged companies to maximize their attractiveness to overseas buyers and partners, exploring new and creative approaches. "Now's the time to do it," he repeated.
He also acknowledged the significant contribution of Prime Minister Modi in consolidating the industry's efforts through a major annual event like Bharat Tex. "He has benefited the industry with regard to focusing it for one, you know, one big show every year where people can actually see the full range of what India is capable of," Antoshak said. He believes this unified platform is a significant boost to the industry.
Singapore-based fast-fashion brand Shein is moving some of its production to Vietnam, incentivizing key Chinese suppliers to establish manufacturing facilities there with guarantees of larger orders and up to 30 per cent higher procurement prices.
This shift is a result of the evolving U.S. trade policies, including the elimination of the ‘de minimis’ rule, which previously allowed duty-free imports of low-value goods. Facing stricter regulations and potential tariffs, Shein aims to diversify its supply chain to protect its low-cost, rapid-production business model.
As per Nomura economists, these tariffs could reduce China's GDP growth by 0.2 per cent in 2025.These geopolitical uncertainties also impact Shein's valuation. After targeting a $90 billion valuation in its US IPO filing last year, its private valuation declined to around $50 billion by late 2023. Consequently, Shein now plans to enlist itself on the London Stock Exchange.
Shein’s strategy highlights the growing importance of navigating complex trade policies, supply chain risks, and geopolitical tensions in the global fashion landscape. Its move reflects a wider trend in the fashion industry, with companies seeking to reduce reliance on Chinese manufacturing by shifting production to alternative locations like Vietnam.
Department of Textiles, Meghalaya was awarded with a Special Award at the Textiles Sustainability Awards 2024-25, during Bharat Tex 2025 in New Delhi.
Presented on February 17, 2025 by the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI), the award recognized the department's outstanding work in reviving the state's indigenous textile heritage and promoting sustainable practices.
CITI commended the department for its dedication to preserving traditional weaving techniques and ensuring sustainability in textile production. The department also received the CITI Textiles Heritage Reviver Award, named in honor of Alekh, for its contributions to reviving indigenous textile heritage, promoting sustainable textile production, fostering innovation in weaving techniques, and empowering local weaving communities.
Frederick Roy Kharkongor, Principal Secretary, Department of Textiles, Meghalaya accepted the award from Union Minister of State for Textiles, Pabitra Margherita.
Since 2019, Department of Textiles, Meghalaya has been actively promoting indigenous textile heritage. The department has launched several new initiatives like the recognition of Umden-Diwon as Meghalaya's first ERI Silk village in 2021, establishment of the Design Innovation Research Centre (DIRC) to support the Ryndia textile value chain in 2022, and ongoing efforts to secure a Geographical Indication (GI) tag for Ryndia. The department has also supported handloom clusters, conducted capacity-building workshops, and participated in national and international exhibitions.
Meghalaya's commitment to integrating traditional techniques with modern sustainability practices has earned it recognition as a key player in India's sustainable textile sector. The Special Award at Bharat Tex 2025 highlights the state's success in preserving its cultural heritage while creating economic opportunities for its weavers.
India's overall cotton output for the 2024-25 season (beginning in October) is forecast to decrease to 30.175 million bales from 32.745 million bales in the previous 2023-24 season, according to a report by the Cotton Association of India (CAI).
The CAI report attributes this anticipated decline to reduced production in Gujarat and North India, specifically citing lower yields in Gujarat, Punjab, and Haryana. However, Atul Ganatra President, CAI notes, the quality of the cotton produced will remain good.
As of the end of January 2025, India's total cotton supply is estimated at 23.426 million bales. This includes 18.807 million bales in fresh arrivals, 1.6 million bales in imports, and a starting stock of 3.019 million bales.
Cotton consumption is projected to reach 11.4 million bales by the end of January 2025, with exports totaling 800,000 bales.
The estimated stock at the end of January 2025 is 11.226 million bales. This includes 2.7 million bales held by textile mills and 8.526 million bales held by the Cotton Corporation of India (CCI), the Maharashtra Federation, and other entities (including MNCs, traders, ginners, and exporters).
The CAI has maintained its domestic consumption projection at 31.5 million bales, consistent with the previous month's estimate.
Exports for the 2024-25 season are estimated at 1.7 million bales, significantly lower than the 2.836 million bales exported in the 2023-24 season, CAI adds.
Alok Industries has signed an MoU with Kasturi Cotton to procure 500,000 cotton bales this season, states Dr. Siddhartha Rajagopal, Executive Director, Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (Texprocil).
The agreement was signed by Sunil Patwari, Chairman, Kasturi Cotton Committee and past Chairman, Texprocil, and Biji Chacko, Group Chief Operating Officer, Alok Industries. Through this agreement, Alok Industries plans to integrate Kasturi Cotton into its product line and promote it internationally, starting with an initial order of 50,000 bales.
Emphasizing on the need for India to focus on producing high-quality cotton rather than solely promoting Extra Long Staple (ELS) cotton, Chacko expressed the ambition to position Kasturi Cotton alongside premium global varieties like Egyptian, Pima, and Australian cotton. He noted that while Indian cotton is currently known primarily for its price, the goal is to make it recognized for its quality.
Describing the agreement as a significant step in branding and market positioning Indian cotton, Patwari explained, Texprocil is working to promote Kasturi Cotton across the textile value chain and that the participation of major players like Alok Industries will create strong demand, benefiting farmers and ginners. The company aims to brand at least 25 per cent of India's cotton crop under the Kasturi name.
In addition to Alok Industries, Kasturi Cotton also signed an MoU with Indo Count Industries for 5,000 bales. Indo Count is currently testing Kasturi Cotton before potentially increasing its orders, states Dr Rajagopal.
A joint initiative of the Ministry of Textiles, Texprocil, the Cotton Corporation of India, trade bodies, and industry stakeholders, Kasturi Cotton focuses on self-regulation, ensuring branding, traceability, and certification of Indian cotton to establish a premium identity in global markets.
Supported by a €9.5 million grant, the European Union (EU) has launched seven new projects, to expand the textile and handicrafts industry in India. Launched at Bharat Tex 2025, these initiatives aim to drive inclusive growth, resource efficiency, and sustainability across the Indian textile sector's value chain.
These projects will be implemented in nine Indian states including Assam, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Uttarakhand, Uttar Pradesh, Odisha, Jharkhand, Bihar, and Haryana over the next three to five years. They will benefit an estimated 35,000 individuals, including 15,000 MSMEs, 5,000 artisans, and 15,000 farmer-producers.
Focusing on diverse products, from natural dyes and bamboo crafts to handlooms, shawls, and traditional handicrafts and textiles, these projects aim to improve production, branding, and market access for them.
The projects will be implemented by seven organizations including Humana People to People India, Deutsche Welthungerhilfe EV, WWF, Professional Assistance for Development Action, Network for Enterprise Enhancement and Development Support, Foundation for MSME Clusters, and Intellecap Advisory Services.
The projects are designed to preserve India's rich textile heritage while fostering economic self-sufficiency through innovation, competitiveness, and stronger market connections.
The EU also launched a Textiles Toolkit, developed with GIZ to promote circular economy and resource efficiency within the sector.
Emphasizing on the shared commitment of the EU and India to a more sustainable textile industry, Franck Viault, Minister Counsellor and Head –Cooperation, EU Delegation to India, highlighted India's textile heritage and the potential for combining tradition with innovation for a sustainable future. He reiterated the EU's support for India's circular economy agenda.
To strengthen its international business and drive global growth, UK retail giant, Marks &Spencer (M&S) has announced three new senior appointments.
The retailer has appointed Manish Kapoor as the new Managing Director for M&S India with effective from April 2024. Armed with an extensive experience in the Indian retail market, including leadership roles at Pepe Jeans, French Connection, and Benetton, Kapoor brings a deep understanding of Indian consumers. He will be responsible for executing M&S's strategic plans in India.
Victoria Jones has been appointed Commercial Director- International. A former employee of Clarks, where she led global strategy for planning, assortment, and delivery, Jones will now oversee product strategy for M&S's international clothing and food business. Her focus will be ensuring product availability and leveraging the best of the UK offerings.
Richard Davies has been promoted as the new Director-International Partnerships. Having joined M&S in 2011 and successfully built the ‘Brands at M&S’ program, Davies will now lead a unified approach to franchise and wholesale partnerships.
All three executives will report to Mark Lemming, Managing Director-International. Lemming was appointed last year to lead the ‘reset’ of M&S's international priorities, focusing on capital-light partnerships and a multi-platform online business. The goal is to leverage the strength of the M&S UK brand to expand global reach.
Emphasizing on the importance of building a strong leadership team for sustainable growth, Lemming expressed confidence in M&S's medium and long-term potential for global expansion.
Bangladesh's apparel exports to key markets; the US and Europe, increased significantly in the first seven months of this fiscal year, spanning July-January’ 24-25. As per data from the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), the country’s shipments to the European Union increased by 13.91 per cent Y-o-Y to $11.81 billion while exports to its largest garment market, the US expanded by 16.45 per cent to $4.47 billion during the same period.
This rise in exports also led to an expansion in the EU's share in Bangladesh's garment exports to 50.15 per cent from 49.31 per cent last year. The US’ share also rose to 18.99 per cent from 18.27 per cent.
Industry experts attribute this growth to the improving economies of the US and Europe, leading to increased orders. Despite a global decline in apparel consumption last fiscal year and reduced imports by both the US and Europe, the current rebound is driving demand, they say.
Within the EU, exports to Germany grew by 13.47 per cent Y-o-Y while exports to the UK increased by 4.55 per cent to 10.83 per cent of total shipments.
Driven by an increased demand from Japan and Australia, garment exports to non-traditional markets increased by 6.42 per cent. However, exports to Russia, South Korea, China, the UAE, and Malaysia declined.
Industry insiders believe, US-China trade tensions contributed to the shift in orders from China to Bangladesh. Improved law and order within Bangladesh also played a positive role. Looking ahead, Bangladesh needs to manage worker payments during upcoming Eid festivals besides ensuring a stable energy supply to maintain this export momentum.
Experts opine, ongoing global trade tensions present both challenges and opportunities for Bangladesh. The country needs to expand its production capacity to capitalize on these opportunities. Besides, it also needs invest in backward linkages to support and enhance the competitiveness and growth potential of the Ready-Made Garment (RMG) sector, they add.
A new report from JM Financial highlights how India's textile and apparel industry is primed to capitalize on challenges faced by key competitors Bangladesh and Vietnam. Internal strife in Bangladesh and rising production costs in Vietnam are creating a window of opportunity for Indian exporters to seize greater market share in the global textile arena.
Bangladesh's unrest and Vietnam's rising costs Bangladesh, a major textile and apparel exporter, is grappling with political turmoil and labor unrest. These disruptions are causing uncertainty and impacting production, prompting international buyers to seek alternative sourcing destinations. Meanwhile, Vietnam, another significant player, is experiencing escalating labor and manufacturing costs, eroding its competitive edge.
Advantage India
The JM Financial report points to several factors that position India to benefit from this scenario
Free Trade Agreements (FTAs): India has strategically secured FTAs with key markets like the UK, enhancing access and competitiveness for Indian exporters.
Government support: Initiatives such as the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme are boosting domestic manufacturing and export capabilities. Also, India offers a stable and predictable business environment, crucial for long-term planning and investment.
Large market size: India's vast domestic market provides a strong foundation for textile and apparel manufacturers.
Improved execution: Indian companies have demonstrated improved operational efficiency and product quality.
"China Plus One" strategy: The ongoing diversification of global supply chains away from China presents a significant opportunity for India.
Competitive labor costs: While labor costs are rising in Vietnam, India continues to offer a competitive advantage in terms of labor costs.
Table: India’s growing exports share
Market India's export share (2023) India's export share (2024) US 6% 7% UK 5% 6%
The report underscores India's growing prominence with compelling data. The table indicates India growing export share in the US and UK market. This upward trend contrasts with China's declining market share, particularly in the UK, where it has fallen from 27 per cent in 2020 to 19 per cent in 2024.
Indian companies are seizing the moment. For example, Gokaldas Exports a leading apparel manufacturer has reported a significant increase in outerwear production, reducing dependence on seasonal fluctuations and improving margins. Similarly, BRFL Textiles with a recent infusion of capital, is expanding its fabric processing capacity and aggressively targeting export markets. Indocount Industries another major textile player, too is witnessing a rise in demand for its yarn and fabrics from global brands seeking alternative suppliers.
The JM Financial report shows by capitalizing on the challenges faced by its regional competitors, India is well-positioned to capture a larger share of the global textile market. With a supportive government, competitive labor costs, and strategic free trade agreements, India's textile industry is poised for a period of sustained growth and success. The report also highlights the positive impact of declining yarn costs and easing logistics challenges on the profits of Indian textile companies. Moreover, the upcoming festival season and the end of the global inventory destocking cycle are expected to further boost demand for Indian textiles. While the US market has some challenges, India's market share in cotton sheet imports has shown impressive growth.
The recent article ‘Style: The Death of Pak Fashion?’ highlights the grim situation of the Pakistani fashion industry. The author, a seasoned fashion journalist, laments the decline of creativity and innovation, replaced by a glut of celebrities, uninspired bridal bling, and a focus on commercial viability over artistic expression.
The rise and fall of Pakistani fashion
Pakistani fashion has witnessed a remarkable journey. It first stepped onto the global stage with its intricate hand embroidery and vibrant colors, captivating audiences with its unique blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern silhouettes. Designers like Deepak Perwani and HSY became household names, showcasing their collections at international fashion weeks and dressing global celebrities.
However, the article argues this golden age is fading. The author observes a decline in the quality of fashion shows, with even established designers producing "generic mish-mash." This raises a critical question: What factors have contributed to this perceived decline?
Reasons for the decline
Commercialization: The article highlights the shift towards commercially viable designs, often at the expense of creativity. This is reflected in the dominance of bridal wear, a lucrative segment that often prioritizes opulence over innovation. Data from a 2022 report by Fashion Council Pakistan indicated that bridal wear accounted for 60 per cent of the industry's revenue, highlighting its commercial importance.
Celebrification: The obsession with celebrity endorsements has overshadowed the focus on design. The author criticizes the ‘unabashed celebrification’ where "profits get generated when a popular 'it' celebrity is seen wearing clothes by a design house. Even when the clothes are downright ugly,” this over-reliance on star power can stifle creativity and originality.
Lack of curation: The absence of strong curatorial voices and platforms for showcasing cutting-edge design is another contributing factor. The author points to the decline of fashion weeks and the lack of mentorship for emerging designers.
International popularity endures
Despite these challenges, Pakistani fashion continues to enjoy significant international popularity. Pakistani designers are increasingly gaining recognition on global platforms. For example, Mohsin Naveed Ranjha showcased his collection at Milan Fashion Week 2023, receiving critical acclaim for his modern take on traditional silhouettes. Similarly, brand Khaadi has successfully blended traditional craftsmanship with contemporary designs, creating a global following. Their focus on handloom fabrics and ethical production practices resonates with conscious consumers worldwide.
E-commerce platforms like Etsy and Shopify have opened up new avenues for Pakistani designers to reach international customers. A 2023 study by Statista revealed a 30 per cent increase in online sales of Pakistani fashion products to international markets compared to the previous year. The Pakistani diaspora too plays a crucial role in promoting local fashion abroad. As fashion blogger Aamna Haider Isani notes, "The diaspora acts as a bridge, carrying the trends and aesthetics of Pakistani fashion to their adopted countries, creating a ripple effect that influences global fashion." For example, known for its luxurious and intricately embellished designs, Élan has captured the attention of international celebrities and fashion influencers. Their recent collaboration with Indian couturier Manish Malhotra further solidified their global presence.
The way forward
The challenges facing Pakistani fashion are undeniable. However, the industry's inherent strengths – its rich heritage, skilled artisans, and growing international recognition – provide a strong foundation for a resurgence. To move forward, the industry needs to first reclaim its creative identity. Designers need to prioritize innovation and originality, moving beyond commercially safe choices. As designer Shehla Chatoor points out, "Pakistani fashion needs to rediscover its soul. We need to go back to our roots, to the craftsmanship and artistry that defines us." Also, leveraging digital platforms for showcasing talent and reaching global audiences is crucial. Initiatives like the Digital Fashion Week Karachi are steps in the right direction. And establishing mentorship programs and curatorial platforms can nurture emerging talent and provide guidance.
The future of Pakistani fashion hinges on its ability to adapt, innovate, and reclaim its narrative. While the challenges are real, the potential for growth and global recognition remains immense. By embracing its strengths and addressing its weaknesses, Pakistani fashion can once again soar to new heights.
