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Pitti Uomo 88, a leading international menswear event organised by Pitti Immagine, announced a game as a pre-cursor to soccer, with players dressed in Renaissance-style costumes. To be played on June 15, at Piazza Santa Croce, which also happens to be the opening evening of Pitti Uomo, and will revive a Florentine tradition dating back to 1530? Colour will be a major theme at the next edition of Pitti Uomo.
For its summer edition, to be held from June 16-19, the event is set to host 1,150 brands, as compared to 1,100 last year, including 460 from international destinations. The 88th edition's theme and slogan is 'That's Pitticolor!' Dedicated to the transgender trend that has been emerging on catwalks in recent seasons, Pitti Uomo has decided to get rid of Pitti W, the mini show dedicated to women's pre-collections held as part of the larger event. In its place there will be a new space called ‘Open’, which will host twenty brands, offering ‘accessories and clothing designed to be worn by either him or her’.
‘Touch!’, the space dedicated to men’s avant-garde brands, in the former pavilion occupied by Pitti W will bring together nearly 100 exhibitors, including 70 per cent from abroad. The section Futuro Maschile, meanwhile, devoted to classic contemporary, is doubling its size to welcome around 80 brands. Pitti Immagine has also announced a new collaboration with an international brand: American Saks Fifth Avenue, which will celebrate ‘The Sartorial Italian Style’, showcasing Italian SME collections in the vitrines of its 40 stores for three weeks beginning from June 21. A similar project was launched two years ago with the Japanese brand Isetan that has been extended for two years.
Countless initiatives are expected at Pitti Uomo 88. As previously announced, the guest of honor is Moschino Homme, which will show on the evening of Thursday, June 18. There will be two additional special installations at the show – one by young British talent, Thomas Tait and the other by sculptor-designer Carlo Brandelli for the brand Kilgour.
www.pittimmagine.com
Nearly 900 textile units near Jaipur have been ordered by the High Court to close down. Up to 18 million liters of untreated chemical water are being discharged into the Drayvawati river every day. The Rajasthan State Pollution Control Board (RSPCB) issued closure notices to 893 facilities for failing to install common effluent treatment plants.
These emissions have the potential to adversely affect quality of both surface water and groundwater resources and could contribute to water-borne diseases like cholera and dysentery. The HC has ordered 213 units to shutter by May 31 and the remainder by June 30.
Tests conducted in 2012 on the units, known for hand-block dyeing and printing, found that 650 textile units were discharging 12.3 million liters of untreated wastewater on a daily basis. However the RSPCB says more than 17 million liters are being dumped.
In 2003 the HC had told the Textile Unit Owners’ Association to set up a wastewater treatment plant and when the association claimed it couldn’t afford to cover the estimated cost of up to Rs 120 crores, the court then asked the state and central government to split the expense with the association.
Sri Lanka will set a minimum wage for all private sector workers, including those in the garment industry. The legislation will see wages backdated to May 1. Under the plans, private sector workers will see their wages increase by 15 to 35 per cent. The increase is a step to reduce the huge gap between private sector employees and state sector employees.
Garment worker salaries are based on market conditions and are higher than the rates set by national wage board for state employees. The garment industry is the second largest forex earner. Women constitute about 85 per cent of the country’s industrial workforce, and majority of these are between 25 and 30 years of age.
The industry initially flourished on the basis of low cost labor, but an increase in the cost of living has made factory work much less attractive for workers. At one time, foreign garment buyers were asked to pay a few cents more for garments bought from Asian countries, including Sri Lanka, to help pay decent wages to garment workers.
Big western retailers like Walmart, Carrefour control large shares of the western garment retail markets. This gives them bigger bargaining power on how much they pay local factories for garments they buy from Sri Lanka and other Asian countries. Right now there is growing pressure on local factories by big buyers to reduce their selling prices.
For 2014-15 India's exports of textile and clothing may dip by five per cent. The reasons for this are: sluggish global demand and declining competitiveness. On a standalone basis, though, apparel export is expected to show 10 to 13 per cent growth. This would be the lowest in recent years.
The 10-month period of April 2014 to January 2015 saw textile and clothing export grow almost four per cent. There are several export-related incentives the industry has been demanding from the government. It faces reduced competitiveness as compared to peers. For next year to be better, the government will have to take steps to incentivise textile and garment exports further.
Almost the entire value chain, barring garments, is witnessing lower export growth trend. Exports of cotton yarn are 110 to 120 million kg while the export capability is 140 to 160 million kg of cotton yarn. In June 2014, estimates were that the sector’s exports in 2014-15 would grow 25 per cent. The apparel and textile industry in India accounts for 14 per cent of total industrial production, contributes to about 30 per cent of total exports and is the second largest employment creator after agriculture.
India has topped the ranking of Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), which has released its annual report for 2014 noting significant growth in the standard’s certified facilities. There are now 3,663 GOTS certified facilities across the globe – up 18 per cent since last yea. The annual report, GOTS released version 4.0, notes that the top 15 countries in terms of total number of GOTS-certified facilities are (by rank): India, Turkey, Germany, China, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Italy, South Korea, Portugal, Japan, France, USA, UK, Austria, and Hong Kong.
Certification rise in a year was up 338 per cent in India, in Bangladesh it was 89 per cent, Germany 32 per cent, Turkey 21 per cent and China 18 per cent. The update saw a ban on virgin polyester and angora for certified products, as well as more stringent recycled synthetic fibre allowances.
According to Claudia Kersten, GOTS Marketing Director, the growth in certifications demonstrates that GOTS has become the standard of choice for brands and retailers to efficiently manage their organic fibre supply chains. She further added that certification to GOTS also demonstrates a company’s commitment to sustainability through third party and independent GOTS certification and reference to GOTS on product labels instead of self-claims.
GOTS magaging director Herbert Ladwig, claimed the report shows the standard is strengthening year on year.
Bangladesh Denim Expo took place on May 11 and 12 and attracted a good response from the industry. This time the exclusive focus was on denim and jeans products. The expo was aimed at attracting at least $7billion worth denim exports, which would help the readymade garment sector meet its $50 billion export target by 2021. Another object was to make the Bangladesh denim industry sustainable.
With the overwhelming response from global brands and retailers, another such show will be held in Bangladesh on November 11 and 12, 2015. Some Turkish companies are setting up offices in Bangladesh to expedite operations smoothly as it is the second largest sourcing country and a major supplier of denim products.
There are 27 denim factories in the country in the readymade garment sector with an investment of $900 million while about 10 factories are poised to come into operation soon. Local denim factories produce around 30 million yards of fabrics a month, meeting half of the local consumption.
In the global $60 billion denim market, Bangladesh lags behind China, the US, Italy and some Latin American countries. The country’s readymade garment sector plays a significant role in converting Bangladesh to a middle income country.
www.bangladeshdenimexpo.com
Cambodia’s garment exports rose by 11 per cent in the first quarter of 2015. The garment industry is Cambodia’s largest forex earner as it accounts for 80 per cent of the country’s total exports. The country exported apparel products worth $1.73 billion during January-March period this year, up 11 per cent from $1.56 billion over the same period last year.
Cambodia’s garment products mainly go to the European Union, the United States, and some Asian countries, particularly China, South Korea, and Japan. During the first quarter of this year, apparel exports to EU increased 16 per cent, exports to the US saw a one per cent fall and to other countries it rose 21 per cent.
Expectations are that the country’s garment sector would see higher growth for the rest of the year thanks to production increases as strikes over wages have ended. Cambodia has emerged a global manufacturing hotspot despite outbreaks of violent industrial action and safety concerns.
In recent years, Cambodia’s apparel and textile exports have grown at a fast pace. However, growth has slowed down in recent months, mainly due to an increase in wage bills of garment factory owners. While rise in wages has increased the cost of garment factory owners, the prices that Cambodian factories receive in their main markets have been stagnating or declining in recent years.
The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (ATPMA) has asked the Pakistani government to take over the country’s textile industry owing to several issues, it has been facing that are causing hurdles in the country’s export competitiveness.
APTMA Chairman SM Tanveer and a group leader Gohar Ejaz have said the textile industry has become unviable because of heavy subsidization in competing countries of the region. The Pakistan readymade garments manufacturers and exporters association (PRGMEA), on the other hand, has demanded special status to export-oriented value-added textile industry allowing it zero rating facility to boost new investment and revive economic growth.
The APTMA also briefed on the plight of textile industry after comparing it with the Indian industry on the basis of a study conducted by the Gherzi International, a Switzerland-based textile industry consultancy. Tanveer said that the duration of load shedding in Punjab’s textile industry has increased by two hours and the industry gets gas for only six hours, which is badly impacting it from achieving its export target.
www.aptma.org.pk
Bangladesh’s export proceeds slowed down to 1.16 per cent in April compared with the same period last year. Exports of readymade garment in July and August 2014 witnessed a 0.07 and 4.23 per cent growth compared to that of the same period of 2013 while receipts fell by 2.06 and 9.69 per cent in September and October.
But earning from overseas sales rebounded in November with 9.71 per cent growth in the same year and slowed down to 2.38 per cent in December 2014, while it has been maintaining a moderate growth since January this year. Income from exports of apparel products recorded a significant growth of over seven per cent in the first three months of the calendar year.
Knitwear earnings stood at $10 billion and wovens fetched $10.55 billion during July to April of the fiscal year 2014-15. But both the sectors failed to achieve targets by 6.31 per cent and 4.53 per cent set for the period.
Knit exports fell significantly in April due to fall in orders, mainly due to the recent political turmoil. Buyers followed a wait and watch approach and placed work orders at a reduced volume at the end of last year as the safety drive went on.
Vietnam has taken a decision not to permit projects that violate environmental norms. Two textile and dyeing projects proposed by foreign investors that were to be located in an area known for its sandy beaches have been refused clearance. In principle, only facilities that use clean technologies will be approved. The reasoning is that the added value a textile and garment project can bring to a locality should not be smaller than the losses it causes to the environment.
Some analysts argue such restrictions will prevent Vietnam from taking full advantage of the pending US-led Trans-Pacific Partnership. The country as a whole licensed only 448 new FDI projects by April end, a drop of 17.1 per cent from the previous year. Some cities have experienced a sharp decline of as much as 45 per cent in foreign direct investment in the first three months of the year.
Vietnam is currently the second largest garment exporter to the US and is the fastest growing garment manufacturer in the world. The top three areas in Vietnam where foreign direct investment takes place are manufacturing, trading, energy and water distribution. Helped by low costs and an eager government, Vietnam is taking over China’s role as Asia’s hot spot for foreign investment in manufacturing.
