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Parent company of the emerging streetwear house Formrunner Apparel Inc, FBC Holding, Inc has entered into a significant strategic collaboration with rapidly growing and culturally influential streewear brand dzerted to provide the brand’s merchandize at FBCD’s flagship retail store-Studio 22 in Chandler, Arizona.
This partnership provides customers with immediate access to a brand previously only available online. The collaboration extends beyond mere shelf placement, forming a strategic alliance between two purpose-driven fashion labels. Formrunner Apparel and dzerted are already planning an exclusive, limited-run co-branded capsule collection. The initial drop will feature a signature clothing piece and a matching accessory, embodying the creative DNA of both brands. This collection will be available both in-store and online, creating new revenue streams and broadening exposure for FBCD’s expanding retail and e-commerce ecosystem.
Lisa Nelson, President and CEO, FBC Holding, Inc, says, this partnership is a high-impact win for the company which is not only strengthening its bottom line but also increasing customer foot traffic, and injecting fresh energy into its brand experience—all while aligning with a powerful force in the streetwear community.
The timing of this partnership is strategic, as the global streetwear market is projected to grow at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 9.4 per cent. Valued at $187.5 billion in 2024, the market is expected to exceed $230 billion by 2030, driven by limited-edition drops, social media influence, and a generational shift towards expressive, urban fashion.
With its clear strategy and growing retail footprint, FBC Holding, Inc is well-positioned to capitalize on this trend. Studio 22’s success with exclusive, fast-moving inventory, particularly brands like dzerted, validates FBCD’s competitive edge in both local and digital marketplaces. This success offers current and prospective investors an inside look at a thriving, culture-forward industry.
The collaboration aligns with FBCD’s mission to build a vertical fashion ecosystem that includes in-house labels, exclusive partnerships, and direct-to-consumer platforms. Dzerted’s proven audience engagement, product sell-through rates, and brand equity immediately contribute measurable value to this ecosystem. Furthermore, the introduction of dzerted inventory has already led to increased foot traffic, higher in-store conversion rates, and a boost in retail revenue at Studio 22, solidifying its reputation as a must-visit fashion hub in Arizona. This partnership is anticipated to have a material impact on future quarters, especially with the upcoming co-branded capsule collection.
Once a paragon of India’s textile prowess, Tiruppur—the country’s undisputed ‘Knitwear Capital’—is confronting a multi-layered crisis that could unravel decades of industrial growth. While the surface numbers tell a story of booming trade and robust exports, ground realities reveal serious structural flaws threatening the very future of this iconic manufacturing cluster.
As India sets its sights on achieving $100 billion in textile exports, the fate of Tiruppur becomes central to this vision. But unless urgent corrective action is taken, the region could go from a global export engine to a cautionary tale of missed opportunities.
Growth meets ground reality
Tiruppur’s performance in FY25 seems, at first glance, enviable. Knitwear exports reached a record Rs 39,618 crore, up nearly 20 per cent from the previous fiscal year. Domestic consumption added another Rs 30,000 crore to the region’s textile economy. With over 20,000 production units and more than 600,000 direct workers, the cluster’s sheer scale is impressive.
Table: Tiruppur knitwear at a glance
|
Fiscal Year (FY) |
Knitwear exports (Rs cr) |
Growth (%) |
|
2020 |
27,280 |
- |
|
2024 |
33,045 |
21.13% |
|
2025 |
39,618 |
19.89% |
Yet, beneath these numbers lie deep-rooted challenges—outdated machinery, labor shortages, unfair international competition, and policy mismatches—all of which threaten to choke future growth.
What’s holding tiruppur back?
Technology lag and MSME constraints: Despite their critical role in exports, most of Tiruppur’s textile units operate with outdated machinery. Industry estimates indicate at least 50 per cent of capital investment is needed to modernize. Of the 2,500 export units in Tiruppur, nearly 2,400 are MSMEs contributing only half the cluster’s export earnings. While the top 100 exporters have the capital to innovate and expand, the rest struggle to stay afloat in a rapidly evolving global market.
The uneven global playing field: India’s textile exporters face stiff competition from countries like Bangladesh, which enjoy duty-free access to key Western markets as part of their LDC status. Furthermore, these competitors receive more generous state subsidies—on electricity, machinery, and logistics—making their products cheaper and more appealing to international buyers.
Labor woes and rising wage pressures: The industry is experiencing a persistent labor shortage, with an estimated deficit of 100,000 to 150,000 workers. This problem has worsened post-election, as migrant laborers delay or avoid returning to the region. Adding to the challenge, wage levels in Tiruppur range from Rs 15,000 to Rs 18,000 per month—nearly double that of competitors like Bangladesh, where wages can be as low as Rs 8,000. This cost burden erodes price competitiveness on the global stage.
Infrastructure limitations disincentivize buyers: Tiruppur lacks direct international air connectivity. Global buyers from markets like New York or London must fly into Chennai or Bengaluru, then travel hours by road to reach Tiruppur. The absence of seamless logistics not only adds time and cost but also reduces the frequency of factory visits and increases dependency on middlemen.
Government schemes falling short
Despite a slew of government initiatives, tangible benefits for Tiruppur’s MSMEs remain limited. For example, the National Technical Textiles Mission has seen only Rs 509 crore spent out of Rs 1,480 crore as of January 2025. The Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS) remains dormant, with no updates since March 2022. The PLI Scheme targets large-scale MMF producers, excluding most of Tiruppur’s cotton-centric MSMEs due to its high Rs 100 crore investment threshold. These gaps in policy design and execution leave smaller players stranded, with little incentive or means to modernize.
Charting a new course
To keep Tiruppur from slipping into stagnation, a comprehensive, region-focused strategy is imperative.
To begin with it needs MSME-focused technology upgradation scheme. That means, a revamped TUFS tailored to MSMEs is essential—one that provides credit-linked subsidies, reduced collateral requirements, and easy access to machinery finance. Without this, modernization will remain a pipe dream for smaller units.
It needs aggregation and workforce development. Encouraging cluster-based approaches—such as MSME cooperatives and producer groups—can help smaller units pool resources, bargain better, and access new markets. Simultaneously, dedicated skill centers should be set up within Tiruppur to create a steady supply of trained labor aligned with market needs.
Tiruppur also needs either a direct international airport or an overhauled Coimbatore airport with faster last-mile road and rail connectivity. Such upgrades would drastically improve buyer access and improve global confidence. Meanwhile India must negotiate bilateral trade agreements that replicate the benefits LDCs enjoy in key markets. Additionally, subsidies for energy, digitalization, and sustainable practices will help Tiruppur compete more equitably with its international peers.
Moreover, financial literacy, digital adoption, and corporate governance training for MSMEs can unlock new funding avenues and improve transparency. Special loan windows with low-interest rates and longer tenures can empower these businesses to scale.
Why Tiruppur matters to India’s textile dream
Tiruppur isn’t just a local success story—it’s a national strategic asset. Contributing 90 per cent of India’s cotton knitwear exports, it plays a critical role in India’s journey toward a $100 billion textile export target. But this trajectory is not guaranteed. With aging machinery, rising costs, and global headwinds, Tiruppur's competitive advantage is fraying. The next five years will be crucial—not just for the cluster’s survival, but for the credibility of India's textile policy itself.
In this race against time, India must stitch together a policy fabric that supports scale, sustainability, and inclusive growth. Only then can Tiruppur retain its crown—and help India become a true global leader in apparel and textiles.
For decades, the fashion and apparel world has returned to a seemingly settled argument: does mass production sacrifice quality, and is Made-to-Measure (MTM) the only path to excellence? The answer, long framed as a straightforward binary, is now being re-examined in the light of evolving manufacturing models, technological advancements, and a renewed focus on human capital. Beneath the surface lies a far more nuanced truth—one that pivots less on format, and more on investment, intent, and execution.
A tale of two philosophies
At the heart of the debate is a philosophical divergence in production logic. Mass manufacturing prioritizes efficiency—streamlined operations, standardized processes, and economies of scale. This system powers much of the global fashion industry, churning out garments at a fraction of the cost of custom apparel. However, it often attracts criticism for promoting speed over skill, and volume over value.
MTM, by contrast, embodies an artisanal approach. With its bespoke fittings, skilled tailoring, and time-intensive production cycles, it’s considered the gold standard of craftsmanship. ‘Fit, finesse, and finish’, says one industry veteran, aren’t just incidental—they’re built into the process. But is that distinction as definitive as it once seemed?
The mass production myth
Contrary to popular belief, mass production does not inherently preclude quality. It is, however, deeply influenced by the operational choices and priorities of the manufacturer. “Mass production and high quality can coexist,” affirms a seasoned production head at a global apparel brand. “But only if we invest in our people and choose to aim higher.”
The primary challenge with large-scale production lies in its vulnerability to systemic flaws. One mistake in an early stage of the production line—be it in cutting, stitching, or quality control—can replicate across thousands of units. This is what leads to the frequent product recalls that plague fast fashion brands. Yet, this vulnerability is not inevitable.
Advanced manufacturers have shown that a combination of smart automation, continuous upskilling, and rigorous quality protocols can deliver products that rival bespoke tailoring. When individual sewers are trained not just to perform a task, but to understand why precision matters, the outcome shifts dramatically.
The economics of accessibility
Much of mass production’s appeal lies in its economics. By distributing fixed costs across high volumes and leveraging standardized designs and machines, the per-unit cost of garments drops sharply. This makes clothing accessible to a wider demographic and fuels the explosive growth of global fashion markets.
In contrast, MTM garments command a premium—often five to ten times higher than their off-the-rack counterparts. The higher price accounts for personalized fittings, skilled labor, and, frequently, a blend of machine and hand-sewn craftsmanship. For many consumers, particularly in mature markets, the allure lies in individuality and perceived superior quality.
The divergent paths of mass production and MTM are reflected in market data. The global garment manufacturing market—dominated by mass production—is expected to grow from $439.29 billion in 2024 to $517.74 billion by 2033, at a CAGR of 1.84 per cent. This scale-driven model shows steady, if unspectacular, growth. By contrast, the MTM market is booming. Projected to increase from $54.76 billion in 2024 to $124.55 billion by 2033, it’s growing at a CAGR of 9.56 per cent.
Table: Made-to-Measure market growth (2024–2033)
|
Year |
Market size ($ bn) |
CAGR (2025-2033) |
|
2024 |
54.76 |
9.56% |
|
2025 (Projected) |
59.99 |
|
|
2033 (Projected) |
124.55 |
Sources: Global Growth Insights, 2025
This rise is due to three trends: a 65 per cent rise in consumer demand for personalization, a 60 per cent increase in digital customization technologies, and a 58 per cent shift towards sustainability-oriented buying behavior.
Quality: Intrinsic vs. Perceived
Consumer perception of “quality” is a complex interplay of variables—fabric, construction, brand equity, and even fit. MTM often wins the perception battle by delivering a garment that not only looks better but feels like it was made for the wearer—because it was.
Mass-produced garments, even when technically sound, are often seen as generic. Yet, several high-end brands that operate at scale are proving otherwise. Through strategic investment in lean manufacturing, automation, and workforce development, they’ve managed to maintain both volume and consistency. Brands sourcing from these advanced suppliers—often located in Bangladesh, Vietnam, and parts of India—can meet demanding global quality benchmarks.
For example, take vertically integrated manufacturers working with global mid-premium brands. These companies employ real-time defect tracking, AI-based inspection systems, and worker feedback loops. Many are also integrating sustainable practices—using organic fibers, water-saving dyeing methods, and ethical labor models. These improvements often translate into higher worker satisfaction and lower turnover—factors closely tied to garment quality. Sustainability and quality, once considered trade-offs in the mass market, are increasingly complementary.
The Verdict: Quality is a choice
So, is MTM better than mass production?
The answer is, it depends. What determines quality is not how a garment is produced, but why and with what commitment. When cost-efficiency trumps all else, mass production can fall short. But when factories prioritize excellence—through training, quality control, and respect for their workforce—the results can rival any atelier.
Meanwhile, MTM’s allure will continue to grow among consumers who value fit, expression, and exclusivity. Its higher cost structure may limit accessibility, but its cultural and aesthetic value is undeniable. Both models serve distinct, yet increasingly overlapping, market segments. MTM is learning from the efficiencies of mass production, while mass manufacturers are adopting craftsmanship principles once thought exclusive to bespoke tailors. Indeed, the future isn’t about choosing one over the other—it’s about integrating the best of both.
Lenzing's leading specialty nonwovens brand, Veocel is set to introduce a significant innovation at the upcoming World of Wipes (WOW) 2025 in Columbus, Ohio. The new Veocel Lyocell fibers for Enhanced Cleaning are designed to revolutionize high-performance surface cleaning and disinfecting wipes.
In line with Veocel’s ‘Unleash Possibilities’ innovation theme, this breakthrough aims to inspire product designers to rethink wipe formulations using advanced cellulosic fibers. These new fibers are derived from wood-based raw materials, offering a sustainable alternative to fossil-based synthetics and contributing to a reduction in plastic waste in wipe applications.
Veocel Lyocell fibers for Enhanced Cleaning are engineered to boost wiping performance through stronger and denser fabrics, significantly improving the end-user experience. These fibers ensure even liquid distribution, which helps minimize dripping and provides greater control during cleaning. Notably, each wipe made with these fibers can clean up to twice the surface area compared to fossil-based alternatives, delivering remarkably improved disinfecting efficacy.
A key factor in the superior performance of these new Veocel fibers is their exceptional compatibility with active ingredients commonly found in disinfectants, such as quaternary ammonium compounds (quats). Unlike many other cellulosic fibers that often require additional chemical treatments, Veocel fibers for Enhanced Cleaning are designed to exhibit minimal and consistent binding to active ingredients through careful raw material selection and optimized production. This crucial advancement allows Veocel’s cellulosic fibers to be used in demanding applications previously dominated by plastic-based materials.
Additionally, these fibers offer excellent wet strength and form stability, maintaining their structural integrity even at lower basis weights. These characteristics make them ideal for a wide range of demanding cleaning environments, from household and personal care to institutional and industrial settings.
All Veocel Lyocell fibers are wood-based and biodegradable, produced using a closed-loop, resource-efficient process with minimal emissions to air and water. The Enhanced Cleaning variant upholds these high environmental standards while delivering outstanding technical performance.
With the introduction of these Veocel Lyocell fibers for Enhanced Cleaning, Lenzing unleashes new possibilities for customers to choose cellulosic fibers in disinfecting wipes, empowering excellent performance while advancing their commitment to environmental responsibility, says Patricia A Sargeant, Executive Vice President-Nonwovens, Lenzing AG.
A biotechnology company developing biological solutions for plastics and textiles, Carbios has announced a multi-year commercial agreement with Indorama Ventures, a global leader in PET production. This partnership will see Carbios supply biorecycled monomers from its upcoming Longlaville plant, which Indorama Ventures will transform into r-PET filaments for integration into Michelin tires.
This agreement marks a significant stride in the pre-commercialization phase of Carbios' industrial site. Leveraging its enzymatic PET recycling technology, Carbios will produce monomers from complex PET waste at the Longlaville facility. Indorama Ventures will then handle the repolymerization and production of high-performance technical filaments. These innovative materials will be used by Michellin in their tire reinforcements, moving towards more sustainable and circular manufacturing.
This collaboration follows Carbios' recent success in securing initial sales contracts for biorecycled PET with two leading global cosmetics companies, showcasing the versatility of their technology across demanding industries, from packaging to industrial filaments. Vincent Kamel, CEO, Carbios, emphasizes, this agreement illustrates the company’s ability to deliver innovative solutions to the most demanding industries, particularly industrial filaments for tire applications and, more broadly, textile, he adds.
Fabien Gaboriaud, Director - Circularity and Renewable & Recycled Materials, Michelin Group, highlights, the partnership is a tangible expression of Michelin's commitment to transforming complex waste into high-performance materials. Michelin is marking a new milestone in their journey towards achieving 100 per cent renewable and recycled materials by 2050 by integrating enzymatically recycled r-PET into their tires, affirms Gaboriaund.Metakeys:
Renato Boaventura, Head-Global Market Mobility, Indorama Ventures, reinforces the long-standing relationship with Michelin and the shared vision for sustainable solutions. This alliance with both Carbios and Michelin underlines the company’s commitment to plan ahead and take a leading role in shifting the industry towards circularity, he adds.
Renowned bridal fashion company, Pronovias has appointed Cristina Alba Ochoa as its new Chief Executive Officer. This leadership change follows Marc Calabia Gibert's decision to step down from the CEO role, which he held since 2023, to pursue new professional opportunities.
Alba Ochoa's appointment is effective immediately. Expressing her enthusiasm, she called the role ‘a privilege’ and noted her deep familiarity with the sector, as her mother was a seamstress for bridal fashion brands.
With over 30 years of extensive international experience in finance, corporate leadership, and team management, Alba Ochoa will also join the Pronovias board. She currently serves as a non-executive director for the management company Atitlan and doValue Group. Alba Ochoa holds a double degree in Economics and Business Administration from the Autonomous University of Barcelona (UAB) and a Master's degree in Finance and Banking from Pompeu Fabra University (UPF) in Barcelona.
Gianni Serazzi, President, Pronovias Group, affirms, Alba Ochoa will further consolidate the company's prestigious reputation and strengthen the group's leadership. Serazzi stated.
Serazzi also extended his gratitude to Marc Calabia Gibert for his significant contributions to Pronovias, describing his work as ‘fundamental; in establishing the organizational, brand, and product foundations for the group's next chapter.
Panipat-based company, RG Fibers is making significant strides in India's sustainable textile sector, establishing itself as a highly trusted manufacturer of recycled yarns. Renowned for its commitment to innovation, reliability, and environmental responsibility, RG Fibers offers a comprehensive range of recycled yarn products designed to meet the evolving demands of the global textile industry.
RG Fibers specializes in producing 100 per cent recycled cotton yarn, a key material in supporting circular fashion and drastically reducing textile waste. Their Recycled Cotton Yarn is meticulously crafted from post-industrial waste, delivering exceptional strength, softness, and sustainability. This versatile yarn is ideal for a wide array of applications, including garments, home textiles, and various other textile products.
In addition, RG Fibers manufactures premium Recycled Weaving Yarn, specifically developed for fabric mills and exporters seeking high-quality, eco-friendly alternatives. This yarn ensures excellent weaving efficiency without compromising on quality or consistency, making it a reliable choice for high-volume manufacturing operations.
For the burgeoning knitwear sector, RG Fibers provides durable and flexible ecycled Knitting Yarn. This product enables the creation of sustainable fashion collections that seamlessly combine contemporary style with a reduced environmental footprint.
All of the company’s yarns are GRS certified, ensuring adherence to global standards of traceability, quality, and sustainability, states Rajiv Garg, Chairman and Founder, The Rajiv Group. The company supports businesses in their transition towards more environmentally conscious production practices.
As the global demand for recycled yarn continues to grow, RG Fibers remains dedicated to producing high-performance, eco-friendly yarns that effectively align with both commercial objectives and crucial environmental goals.
A premier international trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens, CinteTechtextil China 2025 will attract 12 confirmed exhibiting countries and regions.
To be held at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre from September 3-5, 202, the fair will provide a dynamic platform to connect the Asian and Western markets. It will showcase a comprehensive range of products across 12 application areas.
This year, the fair will include a new category- Textile Chemicals and Dyes Zone – that will feature renowned companies like CHT Germany GmbH (Germany) and Michelman Inc (the US). It will open new business avenues for various textile applications, including sports & leisure, safety & protection, and industrial use.
Other notable exhibitors in this zone include Dupré Minerals (UK), showcasing flame-retardant vermiculite dispersions, and Chinese firms Shanghai Xinnuo Chemical (water-based emulsified waxes) and Yancheng Ruize Color Masterbatch (color and functional masterbatches).
The fair's International Hall (W5) will host prestigious European and German Zones, offering valuable expertise. Europe's technical textile and nonwovens production has largely rebounded to pre-pandemic levels, drawing leading companies to Shanghai. Returning brands like EMS-Griltech (Switzerland) and Fibre Extrusion Technology (UK) will be joined by new exhibitors such as Serel Industrie (Belgium), specializing in X-ray technology for textile recycling, and Proton Product International (UK), a manufacturer of industrial control equipment.
The German Zone will feature industry leaders like Brueckner Textile Technologies (finishing machines) and Lindauer Dornier (weaving machines for high-performance fabrics). Wetekam Group, a new participant, will highlight its technical monofilaments, reinforcing Germany's reputation for innovation.
This year, Cinte Techtextil China will also feature a dedicated focus on automotive textile solutions (Mobiltech). Exhibitors like JCT Industries (Malaysia), a PVA product manufacturer, and Jiangsu HongFeng Thread Technology (China), offering polyester and nylon sewing threads, will showcase their innovations for the automotive sector.
The fair's extensive product categories cover the entire industry spectrum, from upstream technology and raw materials to finished fabrics and chemical solutions, making it an essential business platform.
US apparel, footwear, and department store retailers are navigating a challenging landscape due to the country's tariff-heavy trade policies, says a recent report from Moody’s Ratings.
As these businesses sell through existing inventories, import duties are significantly eroding their profitability, the report adds. With limited ability to raise prices, revenue growth for the sector is projected to reach a maximum of 3 per cent.
Led by Christina Boni, Senior Vice President, Moody’s analysts have assigned a negative outlook to the sector, citing a persistently ‘difficult consumer environment.’ These retailers are ‘the most exposed to current tariffs and vulnerable to further increases, Boni highlights.
In 2025, department stores experienced monthly declines with the exception of January, shows year-on-year sales data from the US Department of Commerce, However, apparel retailers saw gains in most months. Value-oriented players like Walmart, with its significant grocery exposure, and off-price retailers are expected to outperform, according to Moody's research. In contrast, Target's operating performance is anticipated to be weak, partly due to its higher mix of discretionary general merchandise sales.
Moody’s Ratings analysts had initially projected an EBIT (Earnings Before Interest and Taxes) decline of over 10 per cent for the sector (excluding e-commerce) over the next 12 months.
However, with reciprocal tariffs pushed to August 1, this forecast has been considerably reduced to a decline of 3 per cent to 5 per cent. Despite this adjustment, revenue growth expectations remain unchanged because weak consumer demand makes it difficult for retailers to offset higher costs through price increases. Mickey Chadha, Vice President-Corporate Finance, Moody’s Ratings warns, a further worsening of tariffs would lead to a corresponding decline in EBIT expectations.
Pricing remains a significant challenge, largely because consumers were already exercising caution with discretionary spending before new import levies were implemented. Some retailers using the retail inventory accounting method are experiencing margin swings, complicating the assessment of tariff impacts.
Beyond tariffs, Moody's also points to broader macroeconomic factors pressuring retail, including elevated interest rates, which weigh on larger discretionary and housing-related purchases. Analysts anticipate, a cooling US employment market, with unemployment expected to reach 4.3 per cent by year-end and 4.5 per cent next year.
India, the world's leading cotton producer, finds itself at a critical juncture. Despite its vast output, cotton ginners are grappling with a pervasive issue: inconsistent fiber quality testing. This lack of standardization has long plagued the textile supply chain, eroding trust and hampering efficiency. However, a major shift is underway, with the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) ready to revolutionize the sector, offering a golden opportunity for ginners to boost their game and make ‘Made in India’ cotton the global gold standard.
The current scenario is marked by a ‘calibration chaos’. Spinning mills, the primary consumers of ginned cotton, often employ diverse methodologies for calibrating crucial testing equipment like High Volume Instruments (HVI). This leads to a disconnect in quality reports, leaving ginners in a bind and creating a ripple effect of uncertainty throughout the value chain. As the proverb goes, "You can't manage what you don't measure," and without a consistent measurement, the Indian cotton industry has struggled to present a unified front of quality.
Why BIS matters
In a much-needed reprieve for India’s cotton industry, the government has postponed the implementation of the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) Quality Control Order (QCO) for cotton bales to August 2026. While this delay offers breathing room to ginners struggling to meet the new mandates, it also marks a crucial opportunity—a chance to prepare for a more transparent, efficient, and globally competitive cotton ecosystem.
For decades, India’s cotton sector has grappled with quality inconsistencies, inefficiencies, and mistrust between stakeholders. The BIS standards, though stringent, aim to rectify these longstanding issues. At the heart of this regulatory shift lies the promise of standardized testing and certification—a framework that could redefine industry norms from the ginning floor to international trade negotiations.
One of the most immediate impacts of BIS compliance will be increased trust and transparency. Spinning mills, which rely on the integrity of cotton bale inputs, have often faced challenges due to wide quality variations. With a standardized certification process, mills can be confident that the cotton they receive meets specific and consistent benchmarks. This assurance is expected to reduce disputes, streamline procurement, and strengthen relationships across the supply chain.
But the benefits extend beyond trust. Accurate fiber testing at the ginning stage will drastically improve operational efficiency. By identifying quality issues early, ginners can reduce the need for re-processing or rejection down the line—a move that promises significant savings and a reduction in material waste. For an industry under pressure from rising costs, this is no small advantage.
The stakes are even higher on the global stage. In 2023-24, India’s cotton exports touched $2.8 billion. While the Ministry of Textiles acknowledges a decline in overall cotton textile exports that year, the value of raw cotton remains substantial. In a market where global buyers demand consistency, adherence to BIS standards could serve as a powerful differentiator. Reliable quality is not just a competitive edge—it’s an expectation. Meeting it could help India consolidate, and even expand, its presence in key export markets.
And most importantly, the QCO extension offers a critical incentive for technological advancement. As ginners move to align with BIS norms, many will be compelled to upgrade their equipment, adopt modern testing technologies, and implement global best practices. This transition, though challenging, has the potential to transform the sector—not just in terms of output quality, but in productivity, sustainability, and long-term resilience.
The clock is ticking toward August 2026. But instead of seeing this deadline as a hurdle, the industry now has a window of opportunity—to rebuild its foundations with quality and trust at the core. The BIS mandate may well become a defining moment for India’s cotton story—one that reshapes how the world sees Indian cotton, and how India sees its own potential.
The science of precision
The importance of precise calibration cannot be overstated. The BIS's own Handbook of Textile Testing (SP 15, Part 1: 1989) underscores that proper calibration can limit errors in fiber fineness measurements to as low as 2 per cent. Fiber fineness, along with other parameters like strength and length, directly impacts yarn quality and the final fabric's characteristics. Inconsistent HVI readings directly translate to variability in these crucial fiber properties, making it challenging for mills to predict yarn performance.
Meanwhile, the South India Textile Research Association (SITRA), a recognized Centre of Excellence for Medical Textiles and a CDSCO-approved lab, exemplifies the transformative power of standardization. Their success in a highly regulated segment like medical textiles highlights the potential for similar quality revolutions in the broader cotton industry. However, the disparity in HVI calibration across different spinning mills remains a hurdle.
Actionable insights for ginners
The August 2026 deadline for QCO implementation offers a critical opportunity for Indian ginners to prepare. Here are some actionable insights to help them navigate this transition:
Embrace BIS certification: Ginners should proactively test cotton samples at BIS-recognized laboratories like NITRA (Northern India Textile Research Association) or SITRA to benchmark their current quality. Applying for BIS certification, allowing them to use the Standard Mark and ensuring compliance with standards such as IS 1424 (Cotton Canvas) and especially IS 12171:2019 for cotton bales, is crucial. This will signify adherence to defined quality parameters including fiber length, strength, micronaire, and trash content.
Collaborate for calibration consensus: To address the ‘calibration chaos’ ginners must actively partner with their buyer mills. This collaboration should aim to align their testing protocols with BIS guidelines, thereby minimizing discrepancies in quality reports. Utilizing NABL (National Accreditation Board for Testing and Calibration Laboratories) accredited labs for all testing will further ensure consistent and reliable results.
Invest in skill development and knowledge: Staying abreast of the latest testing methodologies and quality control practices is vital. Ginners should leverage opportunities like BIS's interactive sessions (held Monday, Wednesday, Friday, 2:00–3:00 PM IST) and industry events such as the 2025 Textile Testing Workshop at G.B. Pant University to upskill their workforce and network with experts.
Champion industry-wide standards: Collaborating with industry bodies like Texprocil (Cotton Textile Export Promotion Council) and ATIRA (Ahmedabad Textile Industry's Research Association) is essential to advocate for and establish industry-wide calibration standards. These research associations have extensive expertise and NABL-approved laboratories, making them valuable partners in streamlining the supply chain and promoting a culture of quality.
Thus the move towards BIS standards is not merely a regulatory compliance exercise; it's an investment in the future of Indian cotton. By embracing standardized testing and quality control, ginners can transform their operations, enhance their reputation, and contribute significantly to India's cotton export ambitions.
Table: Cotton export data (2023-24, Provisional)
|
Category |
Value ($ mn) |
% Change from 2021-22 |
|
Cotton Textile Exports (Overall) |
12,258 |
-29% |
|
Cotton Fabrics and Made-ups |
- |
-19% |
|
Cotton Yarn Exports |
- |
-31% |
|
Raw Cotton Exports |
- |
-60% |
Note: Specific values for cotton fabrics, made-ups, yarn, and raw cotton exports for 2023-24 within the overall cotton textile exports of $12,258 million were not fully available in the provided context, only percentage changes from 2021-22.
The table, while showing a decline in overall cotton textile exports in 2023-24 compared to 2021-22, underscore the substantial economic contribution of this sector. Improving quality consistency through BIS standards is a critical step towards reversing this trend and driving future growth.
The question remains: Can India's cotton bales truly become the "gold standard" in the global market? The answer lies in the collective commitment of ginners, mills, and regulatory bodies to embrace and implement the rigorous quality control measures championed by BIS. It’s a challenge, but with the right strategic approach and a focus on precision, India's cotton industry can indeed weave a future of unparalleled quality and global recognition.
